Which one for me: M5, M6 or M7?

[Pfreddee]

I've started a fund for a Leica M. Now, the next question is, which one would I like best? I really like to have in-camera metering, so the choice is down to the M5, M6 or M7. I'm looking for a user, not a collector's camera. Cosmetic grade isn't really important to me, as long as the innards work as they were designed to.

Also, and this is where I may be treading on some toes, I want a newer model of the M. From what I've read, the M shouldn't need constant servicing to keep it running, if it hasn't been abused. I think it should be able to go 10-15 years between CLA's, sort of like my Nikon gear. If I've offended anyone, it was not intentional.

So, what has you experience been? What would you recommend? And I've already used the Search function on this question, and come up dry.

Thank you to all who reply.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)

 

[michaelwj]

M6.

I've never used an M7, but it seems a bit fancy with all it's AE mode and all.

I find the M5 too wide. The distance between the viewfinder and the edge of the camera gets in the may of my nose.

If you use a digital M, you may want to go for an M6 TTL to keep the shutter dial consistent

 

[YYV_146]

10 years is going to be a stretch. Even if you don't get some form of misalignment in the RF system, putting a working camera through 15 years of use without new lubrication and tightening is not a good idea. Service every 5 years is a good way to keep gear running smoothly - the same goes with lens.

But for your question, I'd go for the M6 to maximize versatility and reliability. The M7s won't last as long due to the electronics and the necessary battery.

 

[Khunyapan]

I recently was going through the same dilemma on which M to buy, and I eventually was sold on the M6 TTL and just got one a couple weeks ago.

Personally I think it's great, it's not as old as the M5 (mine was made in 1998) so there is a "newness" to it that I like. I was flip-flopping between the Classic M6 or the TTL, and I found a great deal on the TTL and went for it. I don't care about TTL flash, but I REALLY liked that larger shutter dial and the simpler light meter (just a single red dot when properly exposed). The M6 has that perfect balance of mechanical and electric combined. You don't NEED batteries for it to work, just for the light meter. So if those batteries die out you can still keep on shootin', you can't do that on the M7. The TTL is a much bigger battery drain than the Classic, I think something like 8 hours of continuous use for TTL where the Classic is like 20 hours, but it only stays on in 10 second increments. Just turn the shutter dial to B which turns the meter off as well if it's going to be in a bag or something. I personally don't shoot more than maybe a roll a week so the extra battery drain hasn't been a problem.


If you can find a good deal on a TTL model, I think you'll like it a lot. If the larger shutter dial isn't a big deal, then you could find a Classic for even cheaper. Again with balance, the M6 is a perfect balance in price as well. A good M7 probably goes for over 2k, but M6's are always popping up on the classifieds on RFF for around $1200, and generally they are in very good condition.

Feel free to ask anymore questions on the M6. I was going through the same dilemma as you were except my three were the M3, M2 and M6. I realized I just really like having a meter, and the larger shutter dial, the all black body and the fact that it's not over 50 years old was a big driving force. Nothing wrong with old cameras though, I have many that I use that date back to the 50s or older, but I do like the fact that this one was made fairly recently.

 

[sc_rufctr]

I love my M6ttl... It's a great user but if you can stretch it go for an M7.

The auto exposure mode is worth having for difficult or changing conditions.
And you can still use it manually. Best of both worlds.

But if you can't afford the M7 go for a M6 classic. Great all round performer.

The M5 is a good classic but the modern battery solutions leaves it wanting IMO.
(if I could get Mercury batteries I'd use mine more)

ALSO::: A non metered M is still a viable setup. Using the Voigtlander meter works really well.

 

[maddoc]

The M7 depends on batteries (about 80 rolls of 135-36 per one set of batteries) but the improved MP-type VF of the newer models is a big advantage over the M6TTL from my experience and the AE works really well.

 

[segedi]

M7 Pros:
If you're using a wide angle lens and like to hyperfocus/scale focus, the AE is pretty darn nice.
It DOES work without batteries - but only at 2 shutter speeds, 1/60 and 1/125, but I've never been without extra batteries, and they seem to last a long time on my M7
When in AE, it will use the correct shutter speed, doesn't need to rely on the what's in the dial and shoots in fine increments
It's newer
You can lock exposure with a half-press of the shutter

M7 Cons:
It uses 2 batteries instead of the 1 of the M6
Higher cost

M6/M6 TTL Pros:
Lower cost
Uses 1 battery
No half-press means it fires the shutter faster/with less resistance
The Classic M6 is slightly smaller and lighter

M6/M6TTL Cons:
No AE
Classic has smaller shutter dial, but it never really bothered me
M6 was in production for a long time, so older models might have more wear or be in need of CLA at purchase

I own an M7 .85 and M6 Classic .85 - and like them both. Though I tend to think of function more than form, the M5 never appealed to me. It's Leica's Frankenstein. Though some people really like them. I'd get a Bessa R3M before an M5.

It really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you need/want AE. Both cameras are very nice options.

 

[Rob-F]

The M7 exists mainly for the purpose of providing an Aperture Priority option. It does have electronic shutter control, which makes for very accurate shutter speeds; but the shutter is plenty accurate on any Leica that's been properly serviced. So: if you need aperture priority, to shoot in rapidly changing light, consider the M7. But the M5 makes it easy to quickly adjust shutter speed without taking the camera down from the eye, so it's almost as good as the M7. Maybe better, since it gives you some manual input.

I wouldn't worry about finding a battery solution for the M5. It's not that tough. I use a Cris adapter that lets me use a readily available silver battery, adjusting its voltage downward to the 1.35 volts (the same as the mercury battery). And you can always use the Wein air cell.

The M6 and M7 have framelines set to match the picture size at minimum focus of 0.7M. That means that at any distance greater than .7M, you get more in the picture than you saw in the finder--and in the case of the 50mm lens, you get a lot more. The M5 framelines, like those of the M2, M3, and M4, are more representative of what actually goes on the negative at most shooting distances. However, I do find the 28mm framelines on the M6 and M7 to be a very good match at my usual distances (generally 6 feet to infinity). The 35mm frameline is a bit smaller than on my M2 and M5, but liveable with. The 50mm frameline, though, is just plain too small. That's why I often keep the 50 on my M5. BTW, I do own all the cameras we are talking about.

 

[Pfreddee]

Another note: I've never owned an M model camera before. I own and use a Contax IIA, but that's the closest camera I have that's like a Leica.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)

 

[sc_rufctr]

The M7 exists mainly for the purpose of providing an Aperture Priority option. It does have electronic shutter control, which makes for very accurate shutter speeds; but the shutter is plenty accurate on any Leica that's been properly serviced. So: if you need aperture priority, to shoot in rapidly changing light, consider the M7. But the M5 makes it easy to quickly adjust shutter speed without taking the camera down from the eye, so it's almost as good as the M7. Maybe better, since it gives you some manual input.

I wouldn't worry about finding a battery solution for the M5. It's not that tough. I use a Cris adapter that lets me use a readily available silver battery, adjusting its voltage downward to the 1.35 volts (the same as the mercury battery). And you can always use the Wein air cell.

The M6 and M7 have framelines set to match the picture size at minimum focus of 0.7M. That means that at any distance greater than .7M, you get more in the picture than you saw in the finder--and in the case of the 50mm lens, you get a lot more. The M5 framelines, like those of the M2, M3, and M4, are more representative of what actually goes on the negative at most shooting distances. However, I do find the 28mm framelines on the M6 and M7 to be a very good match at my usual distances (generally 6 feet to infinity). The 35mm frameline is a bit smaller than on my M2 and M5, but liveable with. The 50mm frameline, though, is just plain too small. That's why I often keep the 50 on my M5. BTW, I do own all the cameras we are talking about.

I don't mean to be disrespectful and it might me me only but I find either of these solutions less than ideal.
(mainly meter inaccuracy and/or inconsistency. Leaky Wein cell???)

It's 2015! You'd think we'd be able to produce a drop in option to the trusty Mercury cell.

 

[sc_rufctr]

Another note: I've never owned an M model camera before. I own and use a Contax IIA, but that's the closest camera I have that's like a Leica.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)

You'll enjoy using a Leica Stephen. 😉

 

[madNbad]

What about the MP? They have been in production long enough to have a good selection of used ones. Both the finder and the shutter are the latest configurations so no updating the M6 finder to eliminate flare. Brass top plate, no zinc oxidation and it has a meter.

 

[David Hughes]

I don't mean to be disrespectful and it might me me only but I find either of these solutions less than ideal.
(mainly meter inaccuracy and/or inconsistency. Leaky Wein cell???)

It's 2015! You'd think we'd be able to produce a drop in option to the trusty Mercury cell.

Hi,

I use Wein cells (several types to replace different sizes of Mercury ones), they seem OK to me. Sometimes I use one in the same camera a lot and sometimes it gets swapped between cameras. About 6 months to 9 months use seems normal.

I've also had one camera modified to take SR44's and wonder about that little expensive adapter; mostly because I don't know the shelf life of hearing aid batteries and don't want to buy a dozen and have half fail through old age.

Regards, David

PS Not having used all the various Leicas mentioned I've no opinion.

 

[kshapero]

I have owned them all at one point or another. If a metered film Leica M is what you are looking for, then look no further than the Classic M6. Plentiful and reliable. IMHO find a crappy one for the lowest price, then get a CLA and new covering, if needed, then you will "know " what you have. And yes 10-15 years between CLA's is not out of the question. If you plan on being a heavy user (10-12 rolls a week) then 5 years between CLA's is tops.
I am please with Youxin Ye for service. He is quick and reliable. Of course there are others. Happy shopping and happy shooting.

 

[BLKRCAT]

Not too many people gunning for the M5.

I will have to say that the M5 is in a class of its own. Great build quality (last of the hand built leicas), Clear uncluttered finder perfect for someone who shoots within the 35/50/90 framelines. Ergonomically its superior to the "classic" leica body style of the M6/7. Shutter speeds are previewed in the viewfinder and are controllable without having to bring the camera away from your eye. Lastly the meter is great. Its a great experience and I'm highly confident in my TTL Spot meter in the M5.

Even with the battery issues you can get adapters. I use silver oxide batteries with a cris adapter and have no problems. The cost of a good M5 even with an adapter will still be cheaper than an M6 or M7.

IMO the M5 is a great camera but it just can't compare to the M6/7 they are both in different classes.

 

[nikonosguy]

i like the m5, like the m6 --- the m4-p is stellar,

 

[Bill Clark]

Please consider, maybe you own one, few, LTM cameras. I have been excerising my 1936 III A of late and they offer some nice features, compact design and cost to buy to mention two.

Otherwise I like several of the M series, only own pure mechanical models!

 

[Huss]

The spot meter of the M5, the most complete VF exposure information out of any M Leica and the ability to adjust the shutter speed dial w/ one finger while looking through the VF puts it in a class of one.

 

[Vincent.G]

I like the M7 because it has a reliable meter and good AE function. The batteries are easily available. The later serial numbers has improved flare-free viewfinder and RF patch - go for those! Even my M6s with upgraded flare-free VF cannot match the VF of the newer M7 and MP. Hence I strongly recommend the M7.

Electronics fail or not, it is over exaggerated most of the time. The all-mechanical models can break down and give problems too. It all depends on your luck.

 

[danielsterno]

The spot meter of the M5, the most complete VF exposure information out of any M Leica and the ability to adjust the shutter speed dial w/ one finger while looking through the VF puts it in a class of one.

Agreed☝….. I have both M6 and m5 BTW- many M5 abilities that is an advantage.