Which one for me: M5, M6 or M7?

[Fotohuis]

I like the M7. AE, A-TTL flash, very precise electronic shutter, DX, you can do manual times too and still two mechanical times 1/60s - 1/125s. Two regular lithium batteries.
You can have them in 0,58 ; 0,72 and 0,85. I have the 0,58 which is great with the 28mm Elmarit. Anyhow I like W.A. lenses on my R.F. cameras. I have a C.V. zoom VF 15mm-35mm too because I also use a C.V. SWH-15mm-M and Elmarit 21mm on it. Further a 50mm Summicron and a 75mm Summarit which is still possible.

 

[MCTuomey]

M7, it's the best all 'round shooter of the three, hands down. AE is great, shutter is stepless and quieter, VF is best (although you can upgrade the M6's), does timed long exposures up to 30 seconds, bigger shutter speed dial easier to one finger on the fly, it's the newest. This from an M6 ttl owner.

 

[Nelson Tan]

I've the M6 and M7, and I find myself picking up the M7 most of the time for two reasons. First and foremost, I like the AE function of the M7, as it allows me to shoot very quickly without fiddling with the shutter speed dial to match the exposure indicators. I preset my aperture, focus and capture the shot. And the second reason why I prefer the M7 is the silence of the shutter. Yes, the M7 is the quietest of all the M cameras due to its electronically controlled shutter.

I like using the M7 for street photography, where the speed of AE and the relative quietness of the shutter are useful attributes. If I were shooting something slow and deliberate like scenic, I'd love to use the M6 instead for a more involved shooting process. Your shooting style will determine your choice of camera.

 

[mikyor1]

M5
Pros: Spot Meter, Hand fitted in Wetzlar, last one to be made the old school way, utilitarian design, the viewfinder is glorious, still has the rangefinder frame that they took out of m6 for cost cutting which makes it prone to rangefinder flare, less plastic bits, vertical hanging lugs, ratcheted rewind, 10 sec manual self timer, the fit and finish is just glorious, and will last longer between cla's vs the M6.

Cons:
doesnt look like a leica, utilitarian design, longer throw of film advance, larger, if you dont live in the US, it will be harder to get it CLA'd

 

[mfogiel]

I'd say, that unless you are a masochist, you should either have a meterless camera, or if you want the meter, it should be an M7.
Why?
Because, if you have the time to fiddle with the knobs, then you might as well carry a Gossen Digisix and take the light measurement properly. On the other hand, if you don't have the time to fiddle with the knobs, the M7 is the camera to have. You decide the most important thing - F stop, and the camera does the rest. If you have a backlit scene, you lock the reading pointing on the part of the image you care about, and then shoot - this is very fast and intuitive.
As to the reliability, RF cameras can be prone to VF misalignment if knocked around, so it will depend on how much you shoot and how much you care about your tool. I have used M7's for 8 years now, and they still run great. The cost second hand is not that much more than a M6ttl. Look for the model with updated VF.
Take a look at this:
http://mondoinbiancoenero.com/be-prepared-be-lucky-be-fast/

 

[MikeChong]

Never had a M5, but there's certainly a loyal following. My reservation is just the age and battery issue, and it looks a bit wonky but I think that's what makes it work well. Never had an M7, some reports of electronic issues but how much of it is really true? Spec wise, looks like a great shooter if you do that type of photography where speed is a factor. I've owned all versions of the M6, Wetzlar, classic and TTL. You cannot go wrong with any M6, tried and true, a workhorse that just comes back for more. Must say the TTL version makes the most sense with the larger shutter dial turning in the direction the exposure arrows suggest in the viewfinder. All M6's operate fully without batteries, except for the meter. Either way, you'll really enjoy shooting with a Leica.

 

[Huss]

I use the M5 and the M7. But if there was only one? M5. A unique standout camera appreciated by the pros but not the trinket wearers at the time. Unfortunately there were more of the latter than the former so it was not commercially successful.

 

[Fraser]

Never had a camera serviced cla whatever repaired yes Leicas are no more delicate than any other camera. If it was me I would go for m6 if you want a meter or m2 without.
Good luck.

 

[Robert Lai]

I've tried a bunch of LTM cameras (of which the Bessa R and the IIIg are the most usable - please note that I do mean usable, and not collectable). The Bessa R is like the M6 of LTM cameras. It is very cheap now to buy, and it just works.

If you really want to get into Leica M, I have a fetish for big shutter dials. The original tiny shutter speed dial of the M3 drives me crazy with its difficulty of use. The M1, M2, M3, M4, M4-2, M4-P, and M-A to me are usable only if you stick an MR light meter on top. That gives you a big overhanging shutter speed dial, the way Leitz intended you to use it. I have an M2, M3, and M4-2, all with matching MR-4 meters for this reason.

The M6 original version, and the MP - as beautiful as it is - don't appeal to me so much because of that vestigal shutter speed dial.

M5, M6-TTL, M7 - now you're talking big shutter speed dials. Don't look at an M5 - pick one up, and you'll know why it's such a great shooting camera.

M7: This has got to be my all time favorite M. I had a 0.85X M7 with the MP finder upgrade and optical film speed reader. It was the sweetest, fastest shooting film camera I've ever had. This is coming from a person who used a motor driven Nikon F3 for 25 years. Lost job, had to sell M7 with big regrets.

Now I've been in a new job for almost 3 years, and the first big re-acquisition was to get another M7. You can get the early versions of the M7 for about the cost of an M6-TTL these days. But, you do have to take into account that only Leica can install the optical reader (free in the USA). They will also charge you for a CLA, and more to do the MP finder upgrade. All told, it will set you back over $600 to update an early M7. I went this route with a very early M7, and I'm happy.

My choices: M7, then M5, then any of the mechanical meter-less M cameras with an MR-4 meter stuck on.

 

[mikyor1]

Never had a M5, but there's certainly a loyal following. My reservation is just the age and battery issue, and it looks a bit wonky but I think that's what makes it work well. Never had an M7, some reports of electronic issues but how much of it is really true? Spec wise, looks like a great shooter if you do that type of photography where speed is a factor. I've owned all versions of the M6, Wetzlar, classic and TTL. You cannot go wrong with any M6, tried and true, a workhorse that just comes back for more. Must say the TTL version makes the most sense with the larger shutter dial turning in the direction the exposure arrows suggest in the viewfinder. All M6's operate fully without batteries, except for the meter. Either way, you'll really enjoy shooting with a Leica.

Battery is a non issue, there are multiple resolutions, however, I personally feel like the 1.5 v adjustment to use 625 battery is a good choice

a second good choice would be getting the adaptor to take 1.55 silver oxide battery

both are excellent and accurate and lasts a good while.

You really must hold it and use it to really see why there is such a cult following for the M5

 

[pagpow]

I come from years of shooting match-needle SLRs, so the M5 was a great, and welcome revelation. I'm with Helen here.

The early classic M6, OTOH, has the diodes simply go dark if you're sufficiently far from correct exposure. So you have no visual indication in the finder of what to do. The meter circuit and what happens to the diodes changed in the later classic M6. If that might make a difference to you, google it and the SN break point where the changeover happened.

No experience with the M6TTL or the M7.

Given the pricing (lower) and the metering (my preference), I'd be tempted to suggest starting with an M5, or at least handling one, before moving on. You can always spend more money later, if you don't like the M5.

GLWYD.
Giorgio

 

[Dez]

Battery is a non issue, there are multiple resolutions, however, I personally feel like the 1.5 v adjustment to use 625 battery is a good choice

It's not difficult to adjust an M5 to use 1.55V cells, in fact it's a fairly straightforward DIY.
However, there is no silver version of the old mercury cell used in the M5, and the available alkaline ones don't have a very stable voltage profile with aging, so I bought the adapter and use a smaller silver cell.




I have never used an M7, but I must agree that the ergonomics and general utility as a shooter of the M5 are better than any other Leica I have ever used. They are also quite a bargain compared to other M's on the used market. If you want auto exposure, I guess you get an M7, (or a Bessa R2A at a quarter the price).

Cheers,
Dez

 

[Erik van Straten]

If composition is important for you, the M5 has no equal as its framelines are very precise, really stunning. With the later cameras you'll get too much on your negative or slide. Batteries are no problem: use a MR-9 adapter and a 386/301 Duracell watch battery.

Erik.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Worrying about the batteries is daft, it's as easy to buy a modern one as it was to buy a mercury one; if not easier due to the internet. Otherwise you are letting the tail wag the dog...

Worse still, you'll miss out on one of the best cameras ever made.

Regards, David

 

[Robert Lai]

I use the pradathai adapter from ebay. Only about $22, and it is even gold plated for maximum electrical conductivity. Silver oxide cells have a flat discharge curve, similar to our now illegal mercury cells.

 

[MikeChong]

If nothing else, everyone here is getting me interested in a M5!

 

[Ronald M]

M5 is the most complex and difficult to repair M.

MR9 adapter works with some cameras and some meters, but not all. It does provide the correct voltage, but not enough current for either high or low light, I forget which.
I do remember the battery cover would not screw down fully on my M5. I do not remember if it worked in both high & low light.

Leica recommends 5 years for CLA.

Get a late M6 TTL where all the bugs have been worked out. There were several with M6 earlies.

Do not buy one with blistered chrome. It only get worse.

This is not a budget experience. Jewels stay the same forever. Cameras have parts that deteriorate like rubber shutter curtains & meter cells to name a few.
Parts are not always available & competent repair people. Sherry & DAG are getting old.

Film ? It has gotten expensive and will get worse along with competent processing.

 

[Erik van Straten]

M5 is the most complex and difficult to repair M.

Not as difficult as repairing a Leica CL.

Cameras have parts that deteriorate like rubber shutter curtains & meter cells to name a few.

I have Leicas from the early 1930's with original curtains and they still work great. The meter cell of my M5 is 45 years old but works like new.


Erik.

 

[Huss]

M5 is the most complex and difficult to repair M.
.

that's ok as i send out my gear to an expert that works on them like Sherry or DAG

 

[Robert Lai]

Sherry and Don trained with Leica. A Leica USA tech upgraded my M7, so I'm sure that factory trained technicians are still being minted.