With near 'mint' M6's currently so cheap .. what are the pros and cons of the camera?

[naruto]

Keith, I second Roland. You should look for a M6/M6TTL with the MP finder. They are a joy to use.

OH! and in case you want to get rid of that M3 or M2. 🙂

 

[TWoK]

Easy question to answer TWok.

The Ikon viewfinder as we all know is enormous ... it also has an RF patch that is very sensitive to eye position ... a milimeter or so either way from that ideal position has a dramatic effect on the contrast of the patch. You can lose it totally in fact!

Use the camera every day as your prime shooter and it's not a problem ... your eye seems to develop an instinct of where it needs to be and the problem becomes minor!

Because I'm using a rangefinder quite rarely it affects me this way.

Thanks, I know exactly what you are talking about now.

 

[TWoK]

Also, M6 much easier loading and rewind, at least for me. MUCH faster. Not to mention age and probability that the older camera may need work.

Stupid M6's will probably need work too. As far as the finder goes, I cannot stand how cluttered it is from the factory. WHO needs 6 frame lines? My camera is at DAG right now having all of the excess lines removed. I can't wait to get it back. I'm sure it will be glorious.

 

[JapanExposures]

I have two M6, a Wetzlar Classic with MP finder and a Classic Panda. I love them both.

The M6 are the most German in mentality to me - they are sensible, mature, unsentimental, engineered to the limit (M6TTL, M7 and after becomes too fancy), not particularly pretty, but solid performers, versatile, durable, tried and tested, not too popular... and you can get two for less than an MP!

The ZI has the edge on the specs and with clear reasoning, but the M6 beats it emotionally, which is what it is all about.

 

[Gary Sandhu]

I have a non-TTL M6 and it's lightweight and the same size as my MP but faster film rewind: my M6 has the M3 style film advance letter. I don't like the meter because the lights disappear when your out of exposure range -- I think I'd get the TTL version instead. That said, you should consider the Hexar RF.

 

[Pablito]

Stupid M6's will probably need work too. As far as the finder goes, I cannot stand how cluttered it is from the factory. WHO needs 6 frame lines? My camera is at DAG right now having all of the excess lines removed. I can't wait to get it back. I'm sure it will be glorious.

Well, the "extra" frame lines never bothered anyone that I know of until folks started making an issue of it on internet forums.

 

[35mmdelux]

I like the 0.72 Classic for 35-40mm and the finder never bothered me. The only dream mod I'd like is to get the extra frame lines removed (keep 28-35-50).

$50 (USD) and DAG will take care of this dream mod.

 

[TWoK]

I kept my 90, just because I can't even see the 28 lines with my glasses on, but I did want unobstructed 35mm and 50mm lines.

 

[TWoK]

Well, the "extra" frame lines never bothered anyone that I know of until folks started making an issue of it on internet forums.

Being newish to rangefinders I can tell you that the first time I put my M6 up to my eye I thought it was horribly cluttered. The Mamiya 6, Ikon and Konica RF were all better.

 

[Calzone]

Keith,

I have a Wetzlar M6. The metering is a little different than the later M6 classics.

I use the Leica 1.4X Magnifier to use with a 75 Lux that makes the 0.72 effectively a 1.00 viewfinder. I wear glasses, but find that my old eyes work fine if I use my glasses that are made specifically for distance. This magnifier is also still useful with a 50, but scanning is required.

The 0.72 finder by itself IMHO was made for a 35, a match made in heaven.

I'll be the third poster to say that a M6 classic with the MP finder upgrade is the cost effective way to go. Eliminating uneeded frames is also an option. (I'd get rid of the 135's while getting the MP upgrade)

I'm currently looking for a M6 Titanium as a second body (Brass top plate), but, even with the upgrades it is still less money than a MP.

Although I have no experience with the M6TTL, I want to mention that in this forum there is mention that the TTL version is known to consume batteries faster than the Classic.

Cal

 

[mr roberts]

2 m6ttl's here. .72 vf for 35 and .85 vf for 50/75. No issues with battery life in the 4 years I've owned them.

If I were using an m8, I'd likely stay with either m6ttl or m7 to keep my controls the same. I've also never gotten my head around the problem caused by the minor height difference of post m6 classic bodies. So many people stuff them in half cases or add grip/drive/vit accessories that the point seems moot to me. I use PE grips on both of mine now. Early on when I used a friend's gripped m6 for several weeks to aid me in deciding on a first body to buy, the height issue was the least of my noted differences/concerns when the time came to choose.

The larger dial is so much easier to use at eye level and directionally "intuitive" that I went with the TTL's...couldn't be happier other than having the opportunity to shoot more.

 

[raid]

I started out with a M3, followed by a M6 Classic 0.85. Lastly, I have added a Hexar RF and a Bessa R. These four babies do everything I need in a RF camera.

The M3 puts me into a "Classic Leica Mood", and accordingly, I use with the M3 99% of the time either a Summicron 35mm or 50mm.

The M6 is a highly functional camera, and it still is a Leica M.

The Bessa R accepts LTM lenses, and it has a TTL meter. For $150, I got a good deal here.

My $250 investment into a Hexar RF camera is a good deal to me. I get AE for M lenses.

 

[john_s]

Well, the "extra" frame lines never bothered anyone that I know of until folks started making an issue of it on internet forums.

You can still take pictures even if the screen is cluttered with framelines that you don't want. But there is a certain elegance to a screen as clean as possible. For the same reason, the Mamiya 6 sells for more than the Mamiya 6MF (multi-format) simply because of the extra framelines in the latter (even though the MF model is newer).

I was about to have my M6's 75mm lines removed by DAG when the 75/2.5 came along. Although I have since bought an R3M to use with the 75, I want to keep the old M6 useable with the focal length I thought I'd never want.

Yes, I know there are more important things to think about!

 

[Ronald M]

Con is no digital sensor and processor.

Early M`s were much better made, but age is taking a toll and you may need to make repairs. Rubber shutter curtains go bad. Rangefinders decement.

If you can find a nice early M and can afford to repair all the stuff, you will have a nicer camera.

 

[hans voralberg]

Not much choice for Keith then since he already got a M2 and M3. have you decided yet Keith?

 

[Keith]

Not much choice for Keith then since he already got a M2 and M3. have you decided yet Keith?

After a surprising attack of rationallity I've decided to persevere with my Ikon ... after dragging it out of the cupboard, putting my 50mm f1.2 Canon on it and shooting a roll of Neopan last weekend I'm reminded somewhat that it's a very good all round camera.

As I said, the rangefinder can be a little tricky at times and mine seems to suffer from slightly erratic frame spacing now and then but it definitely has it all over a Leica in a couple of areas ... the extra shutter speed and the ability to almost see in the dark with that amazing viewfinder are not to be sneezed at I've decided!

So the M2 and M3 are quite safe as shelf queens for now! 😛

 

[jonmanjiro]

After a surprising attack of rationallity I've decided to persevere with my Ikon ... after dragging it out of the cupboard, putting my 50mm f1.2 Canon on it and shooting a roll of Neopan last weekend I'm reminded somewhat that it's a very good all round camera.

As I said, the rangefinder can be a little tricky at times and mine seems to suffer from slightly erratic frame spacing now and then but it definitely has it all over a Leica in a couple of areas ... the extra shutter speed and the ability to almost see in the dark with that amazing viewfinder are not to be sneezed at I've decided!

So the M2 and M3 are quite safe as shelf queens in the meantime! 😛

hehe good to see that rationality prevailed, keith 😉

that erratic frame spacing you mentioned might be caused by accidentally pressing the rewind button on the base of the camera with your little finger while holding the camera. its caught me out a few times. i plan on gluing a rubber piece around the button to prevent it from being accidentally pressed but haven't gotten a round tuit yet 😱🙄

 

[Keith]

hehe good to see that rationality prevailed, keith 😉

that erratic frame spacing you mentioned might be caused by accidentally pressing the rewind button on the base of the camera with your little finger while holding the camera. its caught me out a few times. i plan on gluing a rubber piece around the button to prevent it from being accidentally pressed but haven't gotten a round tuit yet 😱🙄

It's not bad ... never near overlapping or anything like that ... in fact it tends to be more the other way! Occasionally the space between frames will open out by a couple of millimeters ... maybe once or twice in a roll!

I'm somewhat spoilt by my OM's which seem to be incredibly consistent in this department.

My gas hasn't quite dissipated though because now I want a 50mm Sonnar C f1.5 to put on the Ikon ... sigh! 😛

 

[Jaans]

I currently own a M6TTL. There was a lot of internet chatter a few years ago about the TTL's propensity to sap the life out of batteries in split time. Something to do with leaving the shutter pressed against a bag while it was still operational (not turned off). From my experience with my camera and I was a heavy user for 9 months, I didn't have to replace them once. I shot hundreds of rolls of TRI-X.

I figured that behind this urban myth there were three plausible theories:

a) I got lucky and my TTL had the battery genetics of a classic and in turn sapped their power at a conservative rate

b) I never use a camera bag, hence avoiding the possibility of that possible situation I mentioned before

c) Internet chatter created by hard core M3 users with D76 dripping of their fingers who couldn't handle the change of direction of the shutter

I guess these sort of stories/fables develop around most Leica products, hence buying into the system, you are entering that beautiful cave of mythology!

I guess if you have a M2 M3 then the direction of the shutter would point to getting an M6 classic. I had a M2 at one stage but I quickly adapted.

Good luck with your future purchase!

 

[TWoK]

Man, my Ikon is glorious. I get at least 38 shots on every single roll.