willie_901
Veteran
Automatic means you trust a stranger to make a decision about a scene and subject(s) they will never see.
Often the stranger makes great guesses about whats most important to you. Sometimes they don't.
Make your own decisions.
Often the stranger makes great guesses about whats most important to you. Sometimes they don't.
Make your own decisions.
GaryLH
Veteran
why not shoot at shutter priority with auto ISO?
or what about shooting in manual with auto ISO?
Manual mode disables exposure compensation, if u are using auto iso, u can't get fine tuning.
Gary
nongfuspring
Well-known
I agree with most, a hard limit would be much more useful. I've just been getting into the habit of using the exp comp dial to bring my shutter speed back up to my minimum, which is really unnecessary.
But more than that I want manual auto-iso mode with exp comp, something you'd think they'd have from the beginning (I never do manual ISO because the rear dial is always assigned to magnified focus and thus can't manually set exposure easily). Bit disappointed it wasn't included in the last update
But more than that I want manual auto-iso mode with exp comp, something you'd think they'd have from the beginning (I never do manual ISO because the rear dial is always assigned to magnified focus and thus can't manually set exposure easily). Bit disappointed it wasn't included in the last update
Automatic means you trust a stranger to make a decision about a scene and subject(s) they will never see.
Often the stranger makes great guesses about whats most important to you. Sometimes they don't.
Make your own decisions.
Sometimes technical concerns come in second to content and framing though...
willie_901
Veteran
Sometimes technical concerns come in second to content and framing though...
Especially when time is of the essence.
However I really don't see how autoISO adds anything to the game when spontenaity is a high priority. Just use shutter priority and choose an ISO that will work (even if it's an EV or so too high). Most photographers on RFF can choose a fixed ISO that will let them focus all their attention on content and framing.
Especially when time is of the essence.
However I really don't see how autoISO adds anything to the game when spontenaity is a high priority. Just use shutter priority and choose an ISO that will work (even if it's an EV or so too high). Most photographers on RFF can choose a fixed ISO that will let them focus all their attention on content and framing.
Well, the way I use it is this way... choose the shutter speed I really want to use (for example - 1/500th on the street for moving people), then use auto aperture, and auto ISO with -2/3rd exposure comp. Allowing the ISO to ride up and down for the rapidly changing light in NYC. This allows me to get the best ISO available for my situation. In NYC, you can be on the brightest sidewalk one minute and in the darkest alley another. If I need a particular DOF, I can simply go into manual mode by twisting the aperture ring to whatever I want and I'm in full manual (with auto ISO). It works for me. We don't all do things the same way and ISO is one of those things that is individual.
aizan
Veteran
is it going below 1/125 even when you haven't reached iso 3200 and the lens at the largest aperture? breaking the minimum shutter speed should only be a last resort, right?
until this problem clears up, i would just shoot in shutter priority.
until this problem clears up, i would just shoot in shutter priority.
SausalitoDog
Well-known
I think it should be hard min shutter speed and not shoot if it cannot accomplish this, forcing you to adjust either shutter speed, f stop or iso to make the capture...or maybe it should beep and blink and then shoot if the limits are exceeded so you know you need to manage it but at least you have something for the effort?
2WK
Rangefinder User
manual with auto ISO is the best option especially with cameras that have high ISO capability.
but manual exposure is the only way to exert "creative control" over exposure
This is true, but the way I shoot is (or the way I use this camera) is very quick. If I see something of interest, I have maybe a second or two to decide to shoot or I miss the moment. I don't have the camera on a tripod and looking at the exposure compensation thinking, "gee, if I bring the shutter speed up just a fraction I'm really going to exert some creative control over this wonderful scene!"
And again..if I lock my shutter-speed to 1/125, I'l sometimes overexpose when shooting wide open. Of course, I make do. It isn't the end of the world. I enjoy this camera and have been delighted by the results. But, I know it would be even better (for me) if I had a MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED that was strict, hard, reliable….whatever you want to call it.
aizan
Veteran
And again..if I lock my shutter-speed to 1/125, I'l sometimes overexpose when shooting wide open.
so you're shooting in aperture-priority?
GaryLH
Veteran
is it going below 1/125 even when you haven't reached iso 3200 and the lens at the largest aperture? breaking the minimum shutter speed should only be a last resort, right? until this problem clears up, i would just shoot in shutter priority.
As far as I can tell, the 125 is not broken until u reach whatever your max designated iso is.
Then it is up to u to decide what u want in terms of aperture or exposure comp.
I personally don't have a problem do far.
Gary
Margu
Established
Manual mode disables exposure compensation, if u are using auto iso, u can't get fine tuning.
Gary
when you shoot manual, shutter speed, aperture and ISO setting -- all of that become a means of "exposure compensation/adjustment".
Margu
Established
This is true, but the way I shoot is (or the way I use this camera) is very quick. If I see something of interest, I have maybe a second or two to decide to shoot or I miss the moment. I don't have the camera on a tripod and looking at the exposure compensation thinking, "gee, if I bring the shutter speed up just a fraction I'm really going to exert some creative control over this wonderful scene!"
And again..if I lock my shutter-speed to 1/125, I'l sometimes overexpose when shooting wide open. Of course, I make do. It isn't the end of the world. I enjoy this camera and have been delighted by the results. But, I know it would be even better (for me) if I had a MINIMUM SHUTTER SPEED that was strict, hard, reliable….whatever you want to call it.
i wonder how all those "moments" were captured in the history of photography when all the cameras were manual exposure and manual focus --- i mean HCB did not even have a RF patch to work with when he captured his best work
i wonder how steve mccurry got all those razor sharp portraits without image stabilization and shooting ISO 64/200 Kodachrome film...
danielsterno
making soup from mud
manual with auto ISO is the best option especially with cameras that have high ISO capability.
but manual exposure is the only way to exert "creative control" over exposure
+1! this is what I do and gets me exact aperture/shutter/iso each time. I also select white balance & dynamic range manually when in specific low light environment….
danielsterno
making soup from mud
i wonder how all those "moments" were captured in the history of photography when all the cameras were manual exposure and manual focus --- i mean HCB did not even have a RF patch to work with when he captured his best work
i wonder how steve mccurry got all those razor sharp portraits without image stabilization and shooting ISO 64/200 Kodachrome film...
great question- ask myself the same when looking at low light manual photographs from years ago- to me, thats the extraordinary shots….
GaryLH
Veteran
when you shoot manual, shutter speed, aperture and ISO setting -- all of that become a means of "exposure compensation/adjustment".
Yes I already know that but as I said if u choose to use auto-iso, u really don't have that ability since the auto-iso mechanism will always try to compensate for the correct metered exposure. U can only get that desired darker or lighter effect by switching to a specific iso value. This is why I worded the way I did.
Gary
Margu
Established
manual exposure is not risky or difficult with digital. i have had shots underexposed by four stops and the shadows are not clipped.
a digital camera's shadow clipping limit is the limit of its ISO range. a digital camera does not underexpose like film it simply raises ISO, in other words if one underexposes by three stops shooting ISO 100, the camera simply raises the ISO to 800 -- this is in RAW mode of course.
a digital camera's shadow clipping limit is the limit of its ISO range. a digital camera does not underexpose like film it simply raises ISO, in other words if one underexposes by three stops shooting ISO 100, the camera simply raises the ISO to 800 -- this is in RAW mode of course.
GaryLH
Veteran
The more u go over or even under exposure, the more ability u loose in terms of manipulating the image shadows or highlights to the way u want it. I find over exposure hard to recover than under. Btw I always use raw when available.
Anyway, u have your way and I have mine
Gary
Anyway, u have your way and I have mine
Gary
Margu
Established
i failed to mention that with digital save the highlights at all times. highlights cannot be recovered.
underexposure is not an issue with digital especially with cameras that have high ISo capability. basically underexposing with digital is the same as raising ISO. the only difference is that if you raise the ISO you can shoot with higher shutter speed. so its better to raise the iso rather than underexpose but if in doubt underexpose.
underexposure is not an issue with digital especially with cameras that have high ISo capability. basically underexposing with digital is the same as raising ISO. the only difference is that if you raise the ISO you can shoot with higher shutter speed. so its better to raise the iso rather than underexpose but if in doubt underexpose.
GaryLH
Veteran
Yes.. Under is much easier then over.
I can normally recover and still be able to manipulate the file the way I want w/ 2 under and 3/4 over. Past those limits, for me, I don't want to spend the time to do all that work... But then again, the only times I have ever needed to do this is when the rotten exposure comp dial got knock to plus or minus 2 setting when I took it out of my bag and did not notice the problem until after I took the shot.. It used to happen a lot on my x100 until I picked up a thumb rest w/ built-in protector for the exposure comp.. the xp1 or xe1, it does not seem to happen very often.
Gary
I can normally recover and still be able to manipulate the file the way I want w/ 2 under and 3/4 over. Past those limits, for me, I don't want to spend the time to do all that work... But then again, the only times I have ever needed to do this is when the rotten exposure comp dial got knock to plus or minus 2 setting when I took it out of my bag and did not notice the problem until after I took the shot.. It used to happen a lot on my x100 until I picked up a thumb rest w/ built-in protector for the exposure comp.. the xp1 or xe1, it does not seem to happen very often.
Gary
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