Yashica Mat 124G vs Rolleiflex MX (vs SLR)

[B.Toews]

Bay 1 to threaded adapters are nice too.
I have a bunch of 46mm filters for my RF's from when I used the Contax G system and, years ago got a bay one to 46mm adapter that I have used on My Y-Mats and also Rolleiflex T.
The Yashinon lens is close to a 40mm equivalent in 135mm for the sake of choosing the correct hood.
I used a metal hood I had for a Contax G series f2/45mm and never found trouble with vignetting.
There are many different ways you could go.
The original Bay one hoods are of course great too. Finding high quality modern filters is not as easy in bay 1 as it is with Bay 3.
That is why I chose to adapt to 46mm.
Since you use OM's you may find 49mm is even better for you although... it may start to infringe on the viewing lens (I don't know that one way or the other).

Cheers!

I've considered that as well, I already own 52mm filters so that's something I'll look into!

a little too late to be helpful but for the record:

two notable differences between the MX and MX-EVS:
- MX has a min. focus of 0,8m vs. 0,9m on the EVS
- MX-EVS can do double exposures and the MX cannot. I can't remember why but I found this feature useful, and not for anything to do with double exposures. Possibly having to do with my self timer working 50% of the time.

on the MX-EVS:
- it, and the MX (I think) have the super-cool sports finder with auxiliary mirror for focusing. Of course, I've never used this feature.
- it's possibly the most "German" camera I own. Breaks down all the time, incredible finish and attention to detail. Definitely designed by engineers.
- yes, the groundglass is dim, but it's really easy to focus. I put a Rick Oleson screen in mine, but I didn't like the tradeoff of brightness for more difficult focusing. The corners do get hella dark on the stock focusing screen though.

Vs. Yashica-mats:
-the Rolleis don't make a rattling noise when wound, unlike some (?) Yashicas. I'm not really sure why that is, because the rollei has a ratchet in the winding mechanism and if you put it together partially, it rattles. but anyways.



Hasselblads - if I recall there was a hasselblad kit on the forums here, in Canada, that took forever to sell - it was super cheap though, something like $900, with three lenses and backs and stuff. Or something like that. so I think they're pretty reasonably priced nowadays. I'm borrowing one and somehow I'm shooting mostly FP-3000b though it... I'd recommend a RB67 if you want to shoot instant though - 6x6 is too small.

anyways...

Thanks for the in-depth info! I had read about the double exposure abilities, but didn't see anything about the differences in MFD, which is something I'll consider in future. My concern with the MX was the condition of the particular camera that I was looking at (and a lack of a warranty, compared to KEH's with the 124G), and the dark corners of the groundglass, which I felt might be problematic for landscapes.

My 124G doesn't have the rattle (yet anyway), although I have handled 2-3 other Yashica TLRs that did.

I remember seeing that Hasselblad, sadly my MF fund was lacking at the time...

 

[Dan Daniel]

- MX-EVS can do double exposures and the MX cannot. I can't remember why but I found this feature useful, and not for anything to do with double exposures. Possibly having to do with my self timer working 50% of the time.

- it's possibly the most "German" camera I own. Breaks down all the time

Breaks down all the time? Something ain't right! This isn't a British car, you know....

I don't remember off the top of my head, but some of the shutters at this time could only be set to 1/500 if the shutter was uncocked. The double exposure allows you to cover the lens, fire the shutter, set it to 1/500 and then cock it if you must have that speed.

OP< by the way using a Bay I to 52mm adapter on a TLR doesn't lead to any perceptible vignetting or darkening of the focus screen. The filter does cover the viewing lens a bit, but no effect. At least in most shooting that I've done.

 

[Armoured]

My concern with the MX was the condition of the particular camera that I was looking at (and a lack of a warranty, compared to KEH's with the 124G), and the dark corners of the groundglass, which I felt might be problematic for landscapes.

Congrats! Have fun, the lightness and convenience of TLRs is really a big advantage, and they're very fun to shoot with. I find they fit in bags while travelling very conveniently - in a lot of respects, more so than traditional SLRs - the shape is really an advantage.

And I think you made the right choice in going with the camera in better condition. The Rolleis might be better overall cameras (the build is very nice indeed), but they're old enough that the shape of the specific camera is most important.

You'll probably want a Rollei or other in future, but you can take your time looking now. Some very good deals can come up if you keep your eyes open - local craigslist, here, other places - to satisfy that itch when the time comes. Also keep in mind that many of the 'other' names - Ricoh, Minolta - made very respectable TLRs, too.

BTW, you may eventually get the bug for a more expensive one, esp the 2.8 lenses. They're very nice - but personally I find the extra weight to be more of a disadvantage than I would have thought.

 

[bucs]

I remember seeing that Hasselblad, sadly my MF fund was lacking at the time...

That hasselblad, i think, went to me 😀 minus the two other lenses because i didnt need them. Price was reasonable

I found that using a hasselblad for the planar 2.8 made much more sense to me. I just didnt like the ergonomics of the rollei 2.8 at that size and weight

 

[CMur12]

I have a bunch of TLRs and I have to admit that I would still like to have a Rolleiflex F/GX/FX to "round out" the set.

I currently have two late-model Minolta Autocords, a Mamiya C330f + lenses, a Rolleiflex T, a Yashica-Mat EM, a Yashica D (with 3-element Yashikor), and a Ricohflex that I inherited. I have had others, as well. I have gotten some outstanding slides with the Autocord, Mamiya, Rolleiflex T, and the Yashica-Mat, in truth never feeling that the images were in any way lacking or that they would have been better if taken with a Planar or Xenotar. I can also say with confidence that I wouldn't be willing to trade my Autocord CdS-III or the Mamiya C330f for a high-end Rollei.

The Tessar and Tessar-type lenses can be viewed, in my estimation, as true "dual-purpose" lenses. At small apertures, as one would normally shoot landscapes, they are very sharp. At wider apertures, which one would normally choose for portraiture, the effect is a little softer and a tiny bit of vignetting helps to direct the eye to the subject. What could be better?!😉

I found Bay-1 lens accessories plentiful on eBay, and they cost way less than Bay-2 and Bay-3, so I got a lot of them.

Brendan, based on what you have posted until now, I have full confidence in your ability to get superlative images out of your new Yashica-Mat!

- Murray

 

[goo0h]

WRT the Yashica Mat124g, what do folks do about the battery, or is there a conversion process to use newer cells?

 

[csxcnj]

WRT the Yashica Mat124g, what do folks do about the battery, or is there a conversion process to use newer cells?

You can find battery adapters here. Gives you the correct voltage. A little pricey but worth it.

http://www.criscam.com/mercury_battery_adapters.php