OcamRzr
Member
Hi
I managed to get a yashica mat lm almost for free,well for about $5.
It had one issue with it its shutter would not fire,and it is extremely worn out in terms of looks (which I happened to like,gives it some context in terms of its age and era of prominence).So it was not worth sending for repairs as I got it for such a less price,I decide to open it up myself and see IF I could figure out what was wrong.After opening it up I found that the shutter mechanism is in perfect condition and if isolated I can use manually cock the shutter spring and fire it using the shutter button,it works smoothly at speeds.
Which makes me speculate that it is somehow the film crank-shutter cocking mechanism that is at fault here (When the crank is turned forward it is supposed to advance the film and move the lever connected to the shutter downward which in turn moves the shutter mechanism spring into cocked position).
Here are a few photos I took,(Photos are marked with terms I use here onwards to refer to them,since I don't know exactly what they are called).The shutter-cocking lever that the crank is supposed to move seems a little bruised and bent out of shape.I think that is the major problem here.Also when I cock the shutter manually by moving this lever down it cocks the shutter and retreats back to its original position at the top,does not stay at the bottom of the groove.
An help would be appreciated .
Photo 1: Side view of the entire assembly Photo 2:Side view of the assemble on top of the body 3:Top view of the crank mechanism Photo 4:Side view of the shutter cocking lever and shutter release lever for scale/position.
I managed to get a yashica mat lm almost for free,well for about $5.
It had one issue with it its shutter would not fire,and it is extremely worn out in terms of looks (which I happened to like,gives it some context in terms of its age and era of prominence).So it was not worth sending for repairs as I got it for such a less price,I decide to open it up myself and see IF I could figure out what was wrong.After opening it up I found that the shutter mechanism is in perfect condition and if isolated I can use manually cock the shutter spring and fire it using the shutter button,it works smoothly at speeds.
Which makes me speculate that it is somehow the film crank-shutter cocking mechanism that is at fault here (When the crank is turned forward it is supposed to advance the film and move the lever connected to the shutter downward which in turn moves the shutter mechanism spring into cocked position).
Here are a few photos I took,(Photos are marked with terms I use here onwards to refer to them,since I don't know exactly what they are called).The shutter-cocking lever that the crank is supposed to move seems a little bruised and bent out of shape.I think that is the major problem here.Also when I cock the shutter manually by moving this lever down it cocks the shutter and retreats back to its original position at the top,does not stay at the bottom of the groove.
An help would be appreciated .
Photo 1: Side view of the entire assembly Photo 2:Side view of the assemble on top of the body 3:Top view of the crank mechanism Photo 4:Side view of the shutter cocking lever and shutter release lever for scale/position.




Last edited:
CMur12
Veteran
Welcome to RFF, OcamRzr.
I'm sorry I don't have any advice to offer. In my experience, the winding mechanism is the Achilles' heel of Yashica-Mats. It is very vulnerable to jamming and associated malfunction.
By the way, if your LM is like my EM, it has a nine-bladed diaphragm, while later models have only five blades.
- Murray
PS. By the way, I'm not able to see any of your attached photos.
I'm sorry I don't have any advice to offer. In my experience, the winding mechanism is the Achilles' heel of Yashica-Mats. It is very vulnerable to jamming and associated malfunction.
By the way, if your LM is like my EM, it has a nine-bladed diaphragm, while later models have only five blades.
- Murray
PS. By the way, I'm not able to see any of your attached photos.
OcamRzr
Member
Welcome to RFF, OcamRzr.
I'm sorry I don't have any advice to offer. In my experience, the winding mechanism is the Achilles' heel of Yashica-Mats. It is very vulnerable to jamming and associated malfunction.
By the way, if your LM is like my EM, it has a nine-bladed diaphragm, while later models have only five blades.
- Murray
PS. By the way, I'm not able to see any of your attached photos.
Hey
Yeah,I read at a lot of places that it causes problems of jamming,ironically though mine rotates smoothly,it just doesn't cock the shutter.No,this one also has a 5 blade diaphragm.
Thanks for the reply though,fixed the images issue
John E Earley
Tuol Sleng S21-0174
This is of interest to me.
pschauss
Well-known
In your description of how you operate the camera, you did not mention turning the crank backward to its resting position after advancing the film. The partial backward turn is what actually cocks the shutter.
OcamRzr
Member
In your description of how you operate the camera, you did not mention turning the crank backward to its resting position after advancing the film. The partial backward turn is what actually cocks the shutter.
Hi
Yeah,I labelled it in the photo though,clockwise film advance, anti clock wise shutter cocking.
farlymac
PF McFarland
There is always going to be quite a bit of wear in these older Yashicas, Ocam, especially if they were used a lot. You may just have to adjust all the tabs so that everything is travelling the proper distance to lock into place as designed.
And then when using it, make sure you don't use too rapid a movement when advancing the film and cocking the shutter, jarring everything out of alignment again.
Start adjusting at the winding lever, and work your way towards the shutter.
PF
And then when using it, make sure you don't use too rapid a movement when advancing the film and cocking the shutter, jarring everything out of alignment again.
Start adjusting at the winding lever, and work your way towards the shutter.
PF
OcamRzr
Member
Nothing more I can do 
Nothing more I can do
Thanks for all the replies guys,I have narrowed down the issue its is the second picture that I posted.
As you can see by the red line I marked it with indicating that the film advance lever isn't moving beyond that line,well that is the issue.Since it is not going all the way to the end,it is not moving the shutter cocking lever all the way to the end and thereby not cocking it.
That makes me think that there is something wrong with the film advance crank itself And there is nothing I can do about it,as the screws holding the side panel that house the crank mechanism are completely glued it under with the leatherette glue and are breaking part instead of unscrewing when I tried.
So I think that's the end of the line for this little gem,Wish I got to shoot at least one roll with it.Any ways hopefully I will find something else soon
Nothing more I can do
Thanks for all the replies guys,I have narrowed down the issue its is the second picture that I posted.
As you can see by the red line I marked it with indicating that the film advance lever isn't moving beyond that line,well that is the issue.Since it is not going all the way to the end,it is not moving the shutter cocking lever all the way to the end and thereby not cocking it.
That makes me think that there is something wrong with the film advance crank itself And there is nothing I can do about it,as the screws holding the side panel that house the crank mechanism are completely glued it under with the leatherette glue and are breaking part instead of unscrewing when I tried.
So I think that's the end of the line for this little gem,Wish I got to shoot at least one roll with it.Any ways hopefully I will find something else soon
Scrambler
Well-known
How about heating the leatherette glue? Nothing to lose at this point.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Yashica TLR coverings are mostly difficult to remove anyway, Ocam. I spent a good hour chipping away at a 635 to remove only the front and side panels. Will have to do more later on when I order a full replacement set of covers.
But the camera still works without the coverings. Since you already have the camera opened up some, you might as well go ahead and open it up some more.
Are you saying that you've broken the head off a screw? It is possible to drill the screw out with a left-handed bit, which will make it back out. But then you'll need a replacement. Put some solvent on the screws before trying to back them out.
One other method is to put a new slot in the screw with a thin cutter wheel on a grinding tool. This will save the screw, but you'll need to put some thread-locker on it when re-installing things.
Don't give up yet!
PF
But the camera still works without the coverings. Since you already have the camera opened up some, you might as well go ahead and open it up some more.
Are you saying that you've broken the head off a screw? It is possible to drill the screw out with a left-handed bit, which will make it back out. But then you'll need a replacement. Put some solvent on the screws before trying to back them out.
One other method is to put a new slot in the screw with a thin cutter wheel on a grinding tool. This will save the screw, but you'll need to put some thread-locker on it when re-installing things.
Don't give up yet!
PF
OcamRzr
Member
Scrambler
I don't have the fancy tools to heat them,so I will try with a candle/Lighter to heat it up and see what happens.
farlymac
Thanks for the motivational boost,I managed to get the leatherette off, it just crumbled into pieces.But the screws are nasty,I tried to remove one with a bit of force and the top just broke of,the screw did not even a little bit.
I will try that left hand bit trick though,lets see what happens.The other thing you suggested I don't have those tools to do that.
Will keep you guys posted!
I don't have the fancy tools to heat them,so I will try with a candle/Lighter to heat it up and see what happens.
farlymac
Thanks for the motivational boost,I managed to get the leatherette off, it just crumbled into pieces.But the screws are nasty,I tried to remove one with a bit of force and the top just broke of,the screw did not even a little bit.
I will try that left hand bit trick though,lets see what happens.The other thing you suggested I don't have those tools to do that.
Will keep you guys posted!
OcamRzr
Member
Hey guys.
So I can't get the side panel open,tried everything,so I found a fix in another forum thread (kinda inelegant,but works,until I find a new camera),if you can call it that I don't know.
I just removed the front lens covering,(the chrome bit,with f number and shutter speed windows).This exposes the entire shutter mechanism,allowing me to manually cock the shutter with my hands
.Though I have no f number scale any more,so that will be some educated guess work!
The crank advances the film as usual,with a full turn.I ordered a 120 film,will get it in a couple days I hope.Lets see how things tune out.
Will be my first ever film shoot!fingers crossed.
So I can't get the side panel open,tried everything,so I found a fix in another forum thread (kinda inelegant,but works,until I find a new camera),if you can call it that I don't know.
I just removed the front lens covering,(the chrome bit,with f number and shutter speed windows).This exposes the entire shutter mechanism,allowing me to manually cock the shutter with my hands
The crank advances the film as usual,with a full turn.I ordered a 120 film,will get it in a couple days I hope.Lets see how things tune out.
Will be my first ever film shoot!fingers crossed.
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