Maiku
Maiku
Again with Mamiya C3.
Your favourite photo(s) you took with a TLR
- Thread starter rolleistef
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Sonny Boy Havidson
Established
Mamiya C220, 80/2.8 blue dot, Tri-X and Rodinal
NY_Dan
Well-known
7/30/2014 Off Times Square, NYC. Rolleiflex 2.8f & Tmax 400.
bojanfurst
Well-known
A couple of photos from Change Islands, Newfoundland. Ektar and YashicaMAT 124G
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
Great series!
btw does the Ektar seem to give a lot of grain in the clouds - or has it to do with the way you scan the pictures?
Bingley
Veteran
Bingley
Veteran
Maiku
Maiku
More from my Mamiya C3 and Ilford HP5.
bojanfurst
Well-known
Thank you. Hmm... Not sure, to be honest. If I would to hazard a guess, I'd say it's my flatbed scanner Epson V500.
NY_Dan
Well-known
7/30/2014 Jamaica, Queens, New York City.
shortstop
Well-known
Wonderful images!
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Maiku
Maiku
Here are a few from yesterday. I hope you can see the large Dutch tanker off in horizon!
Maiku
Maiku
One more. This does not fit with the Canadian goose theme above!
Darshan
Well-known
Laviolette
Established
Love this set - beautiful composition.
Can you share how you processed the negatives (EI, developer...) ?
Thanks!
Can you share how you processed the negatives (EI, developer...) ?
Thanks!
Taken with a Mamiya C3 and 65mm f3.5 on Ilford HP5.
Sadly, the photos have water streaks! My fault for not getting the water off. Crap!
Maiku
Maiku
Andre,
Film: Ilford HP5 400
Developer and Developing: Fuji Super Prodol at 20C at 7 minutes 30 seconds. That is 30-seconds longer than recommended. I find that developing for 30 seconds longer than what the package recommends brings out more tonality. I always add 5 to 15 seconds more developing time every time I develop a another roll of film.
I do not invert the film. I find inversion to harsh. I use a Paterson reel. I spin my film. I gently spin the film for 30 seconds every minute until last 2-minutes then let stand.
When I learned to developed film my instructor in Japan, Suzuki-san was adamant I never use the inversion technique. He felt it as smooth or consistent. I followed his advice until I moved back to Canada then I tried the inversion technique with steel reels and steel tank. I got uneven and inconsistent results so I STOPPED and revert back to a spin technique.
Fixer: Kodak Powder Fix
I get the same results with Kodak Tri-X 400, T-Max 400, Fuji Neopan 400, Ilford HP5 400 etc.
BTW Fuji Super Prodol is a rapid developer along the lines of Kodak T-Max developer or Ilfrod ID-11. I think it is only sold in Japan, but can be found eBay. It makes 1-liter. It can be made by 1. Dissolving the powder in 500 ml of water at 40 Celsius or more. 2. Shake for 30 seconds the sit for 1-minutes and repeat 5-times. 3. Add 500 ml of 20 Celsius water to make 1-liter. It is good for about 10-rolls of film.
I hope that helps.
Mike
Film: Ilford HP5 400
Developer and Developing: Fuji Super Prodol at 20C at 7 minutes 30 seconds. That is 30-seconds longer than recommended. I find that developing for 30 seconds longer than what the package recommends brings out more tonality. I always add 5 to 15 seconds more developing time every time I develop a another roll of film.
I do not invert the film. I find inversion to harsh. I use a Paterson reel. I spin my film. I gently spin the film for 30 seconds every minute until last 2-minutes then let stand.
When I learned to developed film my instructor in Japan, Suzuki-san was adamant I never use the inversion technique. He felt it as smooth or consistent. I followed his advice until I moved back to Canada then I tried the inversion technique with steel reels and steel tank. I got uneven and inconsistent results so I STOPPED and revert back to a spin technique.
Fixer: Kodak Powder Fix
I get the same results with Kodak Tri-X 400, T-Max 400, Fuji Neopan 400, Ilford HP5 400 etc.
BTW Fuji Super Prodol is a rapid developer along the lines of Kodak T-Max developer or Ilfrod ID-11. I think it is only sold in Japan, but can be found eBay. It makes 1-liter. It can be made by 1. Dissolving the powder in 500 ml of water at 40 Celsius or more. 2. Shake for 30 seconds the sit for 1-minutes and repeat 5-times. 3. Add 500 ml of 20 Celsius water to make 1-liter. It is good for about 10-rolls of film.
I hope that helps.
Mike
CMur12
Veteran
Very informative and useful to know, Mike. Thanks.
- Murray
- Murray
NY_Dan
Well-known
With all due respect, why show work that is streaked and not properly exposed - or adjusted after scanning? Some people show photos without first removing numerous dust marks. I don't understand that either. It's like, "I can't be bothered, but I wanted to post something, so please look past the obvious faults and write something complementary." I'm also not a fan of faux matted borders 🙂
Laviolette
Established
Thanks! I like the luminous and contrasty quality that your workflow provides. It suits the subject well. I started recently to expose HP5+ at EI 100 in full, cutting back the development so that highlight aren't blown...it works pretty well but will sometimes look a bit flat.
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