Your favourite photo(s) you took with a TLR

Again with Mamiya C3.

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Andre,

Film: Ilford HP5 400

Developer and Developing: Fuji Super Prodol at 20C at 7 minutes 30 seconds. That is 30-seconds longer than recommended. I find that developing for 30 seconds longer than what the package recommends brings out more tonality. I always add 5 to 15 seconds more developing time every time I develop a another roll of film.


I do not invert the film. I find inversion to harsh. I use a Paterson reel. I spin my film. I gently spin the film for 30 seconds every minute until last 2-minutes then let stand.

When I learned to developed film my instructor in Japan, Suzuki-san was adamant I never use the inversion technique. He felt it as smooth or consistent. I followed his advice until I moved back to Canada then I tried the inversion technique with steel reels and steel tank. I got uneven and inconsistent results so I STOPPED and revert back to a spin technique.

Fixer: Kodak Powder Fix

I get the same results with Kodak Tri-X 400, T-Max 400, Fuji Neopan 400, Ilford HP5 400 etc.

BTW Fuji Super Prodol is a rapid developer along the lines of Kodak T-Max developer or Ilfrod ID-11. I think it is only sold in Japan, but can be found eBay. It makes 1-liter. It can be made by 1. Dissolving the powder in 500 ml of water at 40 Celsius or more. 2. Shake for 30 seconds the sit for 1-minutes and repeat 5-times. 3. Add 500 ml of 20 Celsius water to make 1-liter. It is good for about 10-rolls of film.

I hope that helps.

Mike
 
With all due respect, why show work that is streaked and not properly exposed - or adjusted after scanning? Some people show photos without first removing numerous dust marks. I don't understand that either. It's like, "I can't be bothered, but I wanted to post something, so please look past the obvious faults and write something complementary." I'm also not a fan of faux matted borders :)
 
Thanks! I like the luminous and contrasty quality that your workflow provides. It suits the subject well. I started recently to expose HP5+ at EI 100 in full, cutting back the development so that highlight aren't blown...it works pretty well but will sometimes look a bit flat.

Maiku said:
Andre,

Film: Ilford HP5 400

Developer and Developing: Fuji Super Prodol at 20C at 7 minutes 30 seconds. That is 30-seconds longer than recommended. I find that developing for 30 seconds longer than what the package recommends brings out more tonality. I always add 5 to 15 seconds more developing time every time I develop a another roll of film.


I do not invert the film. I find inversion to harsh. I use a Paterson reel. I spin my film. I gently spin the film for 30 seconds every minute until last 2-minutes then let stand.

When I learned to developed film my instructor in Japan, Suzuki-san was adamant I never use the inversion technique. He felt it as smooth or consistent. I followed his advice until I moved back to Canada then I tried the inversion technique with steel reels and steel tank. I got uneven and inconsistent results so I STOPPED and revert back to a spin technique.

Fixer: Kodak Powder Fix

I get the same results with Kodak Tri-X 400, T-Max 400, Fuji Neopan 400, Ilford HP5 400 etc.

BTW Fuji Super Prodol is a rapid developer along the lines of Kodak T-Max developer or Ilfrod ID-11. I think it is only sold in Japan, but can be found eBay. It makes 1-liter. It can be made by 1. Dissolving the powder in 500 ml of water at 40 Celsius or more. 2. Shake for 30 seconds the sit for 1-minutes and repeat 5-times. 3. Add 500 ml of 20 Celsius water to make 1-liter. It is good for about 10-rolls of film.

I hope that helps.

Mike
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