Brett, I was thinking about just adjusting that tension wheel, but since it's for the aperture, that won't fix my problem.
I've come to the conclusion it's the pusher for the B lever release, which is also on the same ring as the pusher for the cocking rack. It just hangs when it comes around for the second push.
I knew I should have bought one of those retaining ring wrenches when I saw them for sale. Supposed to work on a number of cameras.
So after I get the shutter assembly back on, what is the procedure for setting the tension on the aperture mechanism, number of turns and such? Or is that before I put the shutter assembly on?
PF
Hi,
you actually don't need to touch the tensioning wheel at all until the shutter has been re-installed. All it does is to pre-tension the control ring for the aperture so that when the shutter is released the aperture stops down. The shutter will work quite happily if it is not even touched, albeit that the aperture will fail to move, of course, until it is retensioned, but it will have no effect on other functions of the shutter at all.
From memory, you will need to remove the locking screw, slightly loosen the actual screw that fastens the star wheel, and then, with the aperture set to f/22, gently use a screwdriver to wind the star wheel anti clockwise (I think, it freewheels if turned the wrong way, so you won't break anything). When the aperture has stopped down to f/22, continue turning the star wheel another three or four notches. Don't overdo it as if over-tensioned, this
will break the spring and then you're really up the creek. Fasten the screw for the star wheel and check for proper actuation at f/22, 1/500 & one second, ensuring the aperture is full stopped down before the shutter blades part. You can omit re-installing the locking screw during the checking process, it is more of a safety device, if the fastening screw for the actual star wheel is tightened the star wheel will not back off. Once you're satisfied the aperture is correctly working, re-install the locking screw.
Of course, before all this is done, it is necessary to clean and lubricate the actuating rings behind the shutter. If any naptha was used during the shutter cleaning process and some of this reached the actuating rings, it will have stripped any lube that was there and encouraged sticking or delayed operation. I know this from personal experience, and I do not use a lot of naptha when I clean parts, less is more. So you will want to remove the shutter, as previously described, clean the rings with naptha (can do this in situ, manually exercise them as needed until clean). Then inspect the sliding surfaces, gears, gear shafts etc. and lightly grease or lubricate with oil, as appropriate. Last Contaflex II I did, I used a combination of minute amounts of grease and watch oil to ensure actuating rings rotated smoothly and simply re-assembled. You need to have the control rings positioned correctly to engage the notches in the rings with their equivalents on the rear of the shutter. When the shutter first comes out note the speeds it is set to (usually either extreme, Ie 1/500 f/22 or Bulb f/2.8 etc.) is the go to ensure you are at the end of the operating range. Take a note of where the notches in the actuating rings are to ensure on re-assembly your alignment is good. Sounds harder than it is, it's really not that acary or ahrd to work out, even if you stuff up the orientation you can work it out by examining the schematics of it. There's a little flick lever for the aperture mechanism behind the shutter, this must be set to the right place to engage correctly, but once again, it's not rocket science.
Being a quality German camera manufactured during the golden era of the German camera industry, this should be all that is required to see the camera functioning again, as new.
Keep me posted, I can answer more specific questions if needed.
Cheers
Brett
