farlymac
PF McFarland
I took on this project as a favor to a friend, and to get more experience working on Zeiss cameras. Boy, was it an experience.

DSCN0709_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0715_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0732_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0783_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
All the photos and narrative on Flickr at http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGwBS2D
PF

DSCN0709_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0715_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0732_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

DSCN0783_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
All the photos and narrative on Flickr at http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGwBS2D
PF
dubya
Established
Bravo! (I think that means you're very brave in a language I don't know) Those cameras are Zeiss complexity at it's finest.. almost... the TLR comes to mind also.
Was it just the shutter or will it come apart further?
W
Was it just the shutter or will it come apart further?
W
farlymac
PF McFarland
Bravo! (I think that means you're very brave in a language I don't know) Those cameras are Zeiss complexity at it's finest.. almost... the TLR comes to mind also.
Was it just the shutter or will it come apart further?
W
Just the shutter, though I did attempt to clean the mirror/focus screen via the port on the inside of the film canister side. Just didn't have anything small enough to reach the spots I saw.
I do have an Alpha of my own that will be overhauled later on. I'll most likely pop the top on that one.
PF
If you can modify a suitable spanner to loosen the lock screw for the aperture stop down spring tensioning screw, it's quite easy to remove the shutter from the camera which gives much better access to the mirror.
The early models such as the I & II are both easier and harder to deal with than the later ones in different ways. They all have their quirks; I've sorted most types. Despite their reputation I think they're a lot easier to fix than most people think, but that may be because of a lot of practice.
Cheers
Brett
The early models such as the I & II are both easier and harder to deal with than the later ones in different ways. They all have their quirks; I've sorted most types. Despite their reputation I think they're a lot easier to fix than most people think, but that may be because of a lot of practice.
Cheers
Brett
farlymac
PF McFarland
I hope I never have to go there, Brett.
PF
PF
colyn
ישו משיח
I recently brought a Contaflex Super back to life. Turned out to be easier than I thought especially since it requires getting the meter/aperture/shutter speeds back into proper sync..
I tried to bring a meter back from the grave on my Contaflex Super B but apparently it has bought the farm. The rest of the camera works fine though..
I tried to bring a meter back from the grave on my Contaflex Super B but apparently it has bought the farm. The rest of the camera works fine though..
Super B standard 50mm Tessar is often very sharp Colyn. Definitely worth using manually with hand held meter, etc. New Super is pick of the bunch, if you don't want to rely on shutter priority auto exposure.I recently brought a Contaflex Super back to life. Turned out to be easier than I thought especially since it requires getting the meter/aperture/shutter speeds back into proper sync..
I tried to bring a meter back from the grave on my Contaflex Super B but apparently it has bought the farm. The rest of the camera works fine though..
Cheers
Brett
colyn
ישו משיח
Super B standard 50mm Tessar is often very sharp Colyn. Definitely worth using manually with hand held meter, etc. New Super is pick of the bunch, if you don't want to rely on shutter priority auto exposure.
Cheers
Brett
It has proven itself. I have been shooting using a handheld meter with excellent results The Tessar never ceases to amaze me..
farlymac
PF McFarland
Test Results
Test Results
Finally found some time between deluges to bang off a roll of BW400CN this morning. If I hadn't been rushing things, I'd have thought of bringing along my digicam to check exposures. I felt like the meter was giving me good readings, but the scans I got back from the drug store were dark if there was any sky in them. So much for "put it on auto-correct and run the front counter".
Some samples below, with the full set and narrative on Flickr at the link.

First Light by br1078phot, on Flickr

Water Jems by br1078phot, on Flickr

Mountain Mysteries by br1078phot, on Flickr

Parking Lot River by br1078phot, on Flickr

Rising From The Mists by br1078phot, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634478740137/
PF
Test Results
Finally found some time between deluges to bang off a roll of BW400CN this morning. If I hadn't been rushing things, I'd have thought of bringing along my digicam to check exposures. I felt like the meter was giving me good readings, but the scans I got back from the drug store were dark if there was any sky in them. So much for "put it on auto-correct and run the front counter".
Some samples below, with the full set and narrative on Flickr at the link.

First Light by br1078phot, on Flickr

Water Jems by br1078phot, on Flickr

Mountain Mysteries by br1078phot, on Flickr

Parking Lot River by br1078phot, on Flickr

Rising From The Mists by br1078phot, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634478740137/
PF
Gareth Rees
Established
Nice images.
Must get my Super out again!
Must get my Super out again!
When shooting neg with these old meters, it can pay to tilt the camera slightly downwards by fifteen degrees or so when taking a reading if there is a lot of sky in the scene. They take a simple broad area average reading and are obviously not, for example, a more sophisticated centre-weighted type. Light overcast skies can make them inclined to underexpose; tilting the camera downwards slightly counters this. Having said that those shots don't look so bad and as you say, much depends on the competence of the mini lab operator.Finally found some time between deluges to bang off a roll of BW400CN this morning. If I hadn't been rushing things, I'd have thought of bringing along my digicam to check exposures. I felt like the meter was giving me good readings, but the scans I got back from the drug store were dark if there was any sky in them. So much for "put it on auto-correct and run the front counter".
Some samples below, with the full set and narrative on Flickr at the link.
First Light by br1078phot, on Flickr
Water Jems by br1078phot, on Flickr
Mountain Mysteries by br1078phot, on Flickr
Parking Lot River by br1078phot, on Flickr
Rising From The Mists by br1078phot, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634478740137/
PF
Cheers
Brett
Last edited:
farlymac
PF McFarland
That's what I was thinking I should have done, Brett. It happens when one gets out of practice. But as you can see in the first example, it was easily corrected in post. I'd like to thank all the underpaid workers who make all the versions of Photo Shop for coming to my rescue.
PF
PF
ZeissFan
Veteran
It's simple enough to clean the viewing screen. Simply pop the top deck (remove the various screws from the film advance and rewind knobs. There is a small clip that holds the prism in place.
There is some foam that by now has deteriorated. It can be replaced with some craft foam that can be bought from an arts and craft store. This material also is excellent for replacing the foam seals on Japanese cameras.
The Contaflex cameras, once serviced, are fun to use, and the Tessar is bitingly sharp.
There is some foam that by now has deteriorated. It can be replaced with some craft foam that can be bought from an arts and craft store. This material also is excellent for replacing the foam seals on Japanese cameras.
The Contaflex cameras, once serviced, are fun to use, and the Tessar is bitingly sharp.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Mike, does the re-winder come out by removing the screw on the base of the shaft? Because all I see on the upper part is a pin that looks pretty much one-way. I can see the screws underneath the knob.
PF
PF
farlymac
PF McFarland
Belay that last post, Mike. I took a chance, and it wound up being just like most cameras, put a screwdriver in the fork, and give the knob a good twist.
I really and truly always expect Zeiss to come up with some oddball way of doing the simplest things, so when I saw that pin in the shaft, I just knew there was going to be a hidden screw, or something like that.
I got the top off, and most of the specks weren't on the mirror. They turned out to be paint flecks, from around the prism. Also found the two little screw post surrounds that fall out when you're not looking. Good thing I photograph the process, so I was able to go back, and see where they came from.
I didn't see any problems with the gearing of the release mechanisms, everything is nice and clean. But I'm still getting the operational delay on the slower speeds, and the shutter not opening on the faster ones. I re-lubed the pusher for the B lever release (I had cleaned it off to inspect for burrs), but the main action still is not good and consistent.
Think I may have cleaned too much lube off the speed cam? Drag on the cocking rack is a possibility.
PF
I really and truly always expect Zeiss to come up with some oddball way of doing the simplest things, so when I saw that pin in the shaft, I just knew there was going to be a hidden screw, or something like that.
I got the top off, and most of the specks weren't on the mirror. They turned out to be paint flecks, from around the prism. Also found the two little screw post surrounds that fall out when you're not looking. Good thing I photograph the process, so I was able to go back, and see where they came from.
I didn't see any problems with the gearing of the release mechanisms, everything is nice and clean. But I'm still getting the operational delay on the slower speeds, and the shutter not opening on the faster ones. I re-lubed the pusher for the B lever release (I had cleaned it off to inspect for burrs), but the main action still is not good and consistent.
Think I may have cleaned too much lube off the speed cam? Drag on the cocking rack is a possibility.
PF
No, I doubt that is it. Sorry but if shutter blades are clean (which they are) it is probably the actuating rings behind the shutter. But it's really not that bad to get into. You can leave the shutter assembled. Inside the back of the camera is a retaining ring around the rear lens cell. It looks a bit like a lens retaining ring but it actually holds the whole shutter in. You'll need a suitable lens spanner to access the notches. The retainiing rings are straightforward enough and the shutter is pinned to locate it on re-assembly.Belay that last post, Mike. I took a chance, and it wound up being just like most cameras, put a screwdriver in the fork, and give the knob a good twist.
I really and truly always expect Zeiss to come up with some oddball way of doing the simplest things, so when I saw that pin in the shaft, I just knew there was going to be a hidden screw, or something like that.
I got the top off, and most of the specks weren't on the mirror. They turned out to be paint flecks, from around the prism. Also found the two little screw post surrounds that fall out when you're not looking. Good thing I photograph the process, so I was able to go back, and see where they came from.
I didn't see any problems with the gearing of the release mechanisms, everything is nice and clean. But I'm still getting the operational delay on the slower speeds, and the shutter not opening on the faster ones. I re-lubed the pusher for the B lever release (I had cleaned it off to inspect for burrs), but the main action still is not good and consistent.
Think I may have cleaned too much lube off the speed cam? Drag on the cocking rack is a possibility.
PF
You do not need to loosen the tensioning screw for the aperture mechanism (the star wheel inside the back of the camera) to remove the shutter. You will however need a screwdriver, or will have to modify one, to be able to loosen the locking screw for the star wheel on reassembly, in order to pre-tension the stop down spring.
By all means do some other routine checks first, however given your work to date and process of elimination, I'm almost certain this is why it's not responding quick enough. Some cleaning of the actuating rings and a little lube and it will run as new.
Cheers
Brett
farlymac
PF McFarland
Brett, I was thinking about just adjusting that tension wheel, but since it's for the aperture, that won't fix my problem.
I've come to the conclusion it's the pusher for the B lever release, which is also on the same ring as the pusher for the cocking rack. It just hangs when it comes around for the second push.
I knew I should have bought one of those retaining ring wrenches when I saw them for sale. Supposed to work on a number of cameras.
So after I get the shutter assembly back on, what is the procedure for setting the tension on the aperture mechanism, number of turns and such? Or is that before I put the shutter assembly on?
PF
I've come to the conclusion it's the pusher for the B lever release, which is also on the same ring as the pusher for the cocking rack. It just hangs when it comes around for the second push.
I knew I should have bought one of those retaining ring wrenches when I saw them for sale. Supposed to work on a number of cameras.
So after I get the shutter assembly back on, what is the procedure for setting the tension on the aperture mechanism, number of turns and such? Or is that before I put the shutter assembly on?
PF
farlymac
PF McFarland
Bravo! (I think that means you're very brave in a language I don't know) Those cameras are Zeiss complexity at it's finest.. almost... the TLR comes to mind also.
Was it just the shutter or will it come apart further?
W
I took the top off today to clean out the viewfinder. Photos to follow.
PF
Hi,Brett, I was thinking about just adjusting that tension wheel, but since it's for the aperture, that won't fix my problem.
I've come to the conclusion it's the pusher for the B lever release, which is also on the same ring as the pusher for the cocking rack. It just hangs when it comes around for the second push.
I knew I should have bought one of those retaining ring wrenches when I saw them for sale. Supposed to work on a number of cameras.
So after I get the shutter assembly back on, what is the procedure for setting the tension on the aperture mechanism, number of turns and such? Or is that before I put the shutter assembly on?
PF
you actually don't need to touch the tensioning wheel at all until the shutter has been re-installed. All it does is to pre-tension the control ring for the aperture so that when the shutter is released the aperture stops down. The shutter will work quite happily if it is not even touched, albeit that the aperture will fail to move, of course, until it is retensioned, but it will have no effect on other functions of the shutter at all.
From memory, you will need to remove the locking screw, slightly loosen the actual screw that fastens the star wheel, and then, with the aperture set to f/22, gently use a screwdriver to wind the star wheel anti clockwise (I think, it freewheels if turned the wrong way, so you won't break anything). When the aperture has stopped down to f/22, continue turning the star wheel another three or four notches. Don't overdo it as if over-tensioned, this will break the spring and then you're really up the creek. Fasten the screw for the star wheel and check for proper actuation at f/22, 1/500 & one second, ensuring the aperture is full stopped down before the shutter blades part. You can omit re-installing the locking screw during the checking process, it is more of a safety device, if the fastening screw for the actual star wheel is tightened the star wheel will not back off. Once you're satisfied the aperture is correctly working, re-install the locking screw.
Of course, before all this is done, it is necessary to clean and lubricate the actuating rings behind the shutter. If any naptha was used during the shutter cleaning process and some of this reached the actuating rings, it will have stripped any lube that was there and encouraged sticking or delayed operation. I know this from personal experience, and I do not use a lot of naptha when I clean parts, less is more. So you will want to remove the shutter, as previously described, clean the rings with naptha (can do this in situ, manually exercise them as needed until clean). Then inspect the sliding surfaces, gears, gear shafts etc. and lightly grease or lubricate with oil, as appropriate. Last Contaflex II I did, I used a combination of minute amounts of grease and watch oil to ensure actuating rings rotated smoothly and simply re-assembled. You need to have the control rings positioned correctly to engage the notches in the rings with their equivalents on the rear of the shutter. When the shutter first comes out note the speeds it is set to (usually either extreme, Ie 1/500 f/22 or Bulb f/2.8 etc.) is the go to ensure you are at the end of the operating range. Take a note of where the notches in the actuating rings are to ensure on re-assembly your alignment is good. Sounds harder than it is, it's really not that acary or ahrd to work out, even if you stuff up the orientation you can work it out by examining the schematics of it. There's a little flick lever for the aperture mechanism behind the shutter, this must be set to the right place to engage correctly, but once again, it's not rocket science.
Being a quality German camera manufactured during the golden era of the German camera industry, this should be all that is required to see the camera functioning again, as new.
Keep me posted, I can answer more specific questions if needed.
Cheers
Brett
farlymac
PF McFarland
Thanks, Brett. I learned a while back not to flood clean a shutter. I always take the gearing's out first, and clean them separately. Now all I need to do is make a spanner, or buy one of those fancy ones from MicroTools.
PF
PF
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