Bike Tourist
Well-known
I'll have to admit that there are times when zone focus would be preferable to waiting on the AF. I have never done much manual focusing with autofocus cameras and Fugi's explanation of manual focus is minimalist at best.
What would be the procedure? Can it be done with the OVF (what I use 95% of the time)? What is the indication that an object or a distance is in focus? When the focus zone is correct is it maintained from one shot to the other? If the camera is turned off is the focus position retained?
What would be the procedure? Can it be done with the OVF (what I use 95% of the time)? What is the indication that an object or a distance is in focus? When the focus zone is correct is it maintained from one shot to the other? If the camera is turned off is the focus position retained?
f16sunshine
Moderator
I just use the manual focus and guess as close as possible. It can only be a matter of time before fuji implements a Firmware update that includes a DOF scale for a given lens. Anyone who ever used the Contax RX SLR will remember fondly the DOF scale the camera had in the VF. The scale would change with aperture changes and focus distance changes. In that camera there was no way to communicate the Lens focal length as there is with the Fuji X cameras so, the fuji could really improve on it (The RX was set fixed for 50mm FL). I hope that fuji get's on that feature quickly. I would love to have it.
Bike Tourist
Well-known
Yep, me too.
intheviewfinder
Street
This is what I do using one of the new matched Fujinon lenses (I'm not familiar using an adapter and 'other' lens).
When out and about I just put the Focus Mode selector on the front of the camera to 'M'. Next I aim the camera at a target - say something 8-12 feet away. By using the AFL/AEL button (just above the Q) I get a quick focus. Then use the lens focus ring to fine tune. The camera has a scale on the bottom of the viewfinder (OVF, EVF & LCD) that has a DOF scale (a white or grayish band) which also indicates the point of focus via a vertical line. The COC seems a bit tight so there seems to be a bit of room at the edges.
-- Rich
When out and about I just put the Focus Mode selector on the front of the camera to 'M'. Next I aim the camera at a target - say something 8-12 feet away. By using the AFL/AEL button (just above the Q) I get a quick focus. Then use the lens focus ring to fine tune. The camera has a scale on the bottom of the viewfinder (OVF, EVF & LCD) that has a DOF scale (a white or grayish band) which also indicates the point of focus via a vertical line. The COC seems a bit tight so there seems to be a bit of room at the edges.
-- Rich
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
There is indeed a focus scale in the OVF with all native lenses on the XP1 in manual focus mode. It even has a depth of field indicator that changes when you change aperture. The focus by wire isn't bad at all. The only problem I have with it is that there seems to be a slight lag when you press the shutter. This is rather bewildering to me as the camera is very responsive in AF mode, after a half press. Maybe it's taking longer than I expect to meter?
f16sunshine
Moderator
I did not notice a DOF scale around the distance scale indicator. Will look again. Thanks !
f16sunshine
Moderator
Ok, I sees it now. I guess reading the manual would be an ok thing to do. 
I question the accuracy though.
For example:
At f16 and touching the long end of the DOF scale to infinity the close range says 10m.
Every other 35mm I have puts the close end around 1.5m.
Shouldn't the APSc sensor have more not less DOF for a given FL as compared to a 24x36 sensor or film?
I question the accuracy though.
For example:
At f16 and touching the long end of the DOF scale to infinity the close range says 10m.
Every other 35mm I have puts the close end around 1.5m.
Shouldn't the APSc sensor have more not less DOF for a given FL as compared to a 24x36 sensor or film?
skibeerr
Well-known
Ok, I sees it now. I guess reading the manual would be an ok thing to do.
I question the accuracy though.
For example:
At f16 and touching the long end of the DOF scale to infinity the close range says 10m.
Every other 35mm I have puts the close end around 1.5m.
Shouldn't the APSc sensor have more not less DOF for a given FL as compared to a 24x36 sensor or film?
You are right; they must be playing it safe as they had comments on the optimistic dof scale of their 6X9 rf's
intheviewfinder
Street
Yes I completely agree about the DOF accuracy. As I mentioned my best guess would be that they are using a tighter COC (circle of confusion) calculation then most DOF calculators use.
--Rich
--Rich
willie_901
Veteran
The DOF estimates on the XP1 and X100 display scale are infamously conservative.
Here is some information about manual focus mode in OVF.
- The focus will never change with a half shutter press.
- At any point you can briefly switch to EVF mode, turn the lens barrel and observe the focus. To enhance accuracy press the selector wheel on the camera back to see a magnified view. Not only will you see if the focus is sharp, but you will see the actual focus region selected by the camera. When you release pressure on the selector wheel, the full view will return. Then you can switch to OVF mode to compose and press the shutter button. Of course you will never see the effect of turning the lens barrel in OVF mode.
- In OVF mode place the desired focal point inside the focus region box. The closer the focal point, the more you have to estimate parallax offset (switching to EVF mode for a second eliminates parallax error). Press the AFL/AEL button as mentioned in an earlier post to lock focus. The focus distance indicator line will move. You can also check/adjust focus accuracy and region using the selector wheel. Just Press the wheel once to zoom and press it again to return to EVF mode.
- In the menus you can turn Silent Mode off, then you turn off all sounds except for focus confirmation. If you do this, the camera will make a beep-beep sound when focus locks. The sound level is adjustable using the menus. This works in OVF mode.
Here is some information about manual focus mode in OVF.
- The focus will never change with a half shutter press.
- At any point you can briefly switch to EVF mode, turn the lens barrel and observe the focus. To enhance accuracy press the selector wheel on the camera back to see a magnified view. Not only will you see if the focus is sharp, but you will see the actual focus region selected by the camera. When you release pressure on the selector wheel, the full view will return. Then you can switch to OVF mode to compose and press the shutter button. Of course you will never see the effect of turning the lens barrel in OVF mode.
- In OVF mode place the desired focal point inside the focus region box. The closer the focal point, the more you have to estimate parallax offset (switching to EVF mode for a second eliminates parallax error). Press the AFL/AEL button as mentioned in an earlier post to lock focus. The focus distance indicator line will move. You can also check/adjust focus accuracy and region using the selector wheel. Just Press the wheel once to zoom and press it again to return to EVF mode.
- In the menus you can turn Silent Mode off, then you turn off all sounds except for focus confirmation. If you do this, the camera will make a beep-beep sound when focus locks. The sound level is adjustable using the menus. This works in OVF mode.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Great advice, thanks!
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Exactly. Focus distance and DOF are indicated in the finder or on the back display.
In manual mode it's fastest to use the AF-L button while pointing at e.g. a lamppost at ~2m. Bam. Done.
Fine tuning (if required at all) is then done using the focus ring.
Or you can use an adapted M-mount lens. My ZM 21/2.8 is lovely for this, and I've got a pal doing terrific street work who's using an X-Pro with the Leica 24/2.8 ASPH and the C-V 15/4. He's clearly not struggling with focus.
willie_901
Veteran
Bike Tourist
Well-known
Thanks. So when the focus is first put where you want it does it stay there for consecutive shots or do you have to re-focus each exposure? Really, instead of asking stupid questions I think I'll just go out and try it for myself! The internet makes me lazy.
intheviewfinder
Street
The focus will for the most part stay where you put it as long as the switch has 'M' (manual focus) selected. Pressing of the shutter button will not change the focus. I said 'for the most part' because you might nudge it walking around so you should check it periodically. It only takes a minor turn to correct it.
--Rich
--Rich
willie_901
Veteran
In manual focus mode the focus can not change unless you
1. Turn the lens focus ring
2. Push the AFL/AEL button
1. Turn the lens focus ring
2. Push the AFL/AEL button
Monochrom
Well-known
Hi, you don´t have to worry too much to achieve hyperfocal on wide angles. Dof is determined by the focal length of the lens, say less focal length more dof to a given aperture.
Being the xpro a apsc camera it uses wide angles to fov a normal lens, being 35mm=50mm.
Then if you calculate in a dof scale liek dofmaster you have to put the "real" focal length of the lens.
You´ll fiind that 35mm lenses will give you a lot of dof if you use 5.6 and set it to 10 feet.
On some panasonic and leica (x1) cameras tehrés a dof scale in the screen wich varies as you set a given aperture.
With the 28mm fov xpro lens you´ll see it achieves hyperfocal almost immediately with 5.6...it´s wider than a 21mm lens because it´s 17mm real focal length.
Cheers!
Being the xpro a apsc camera it uses wide angles to fov a normal lens, being 35mm=50mm.
Then if you calculate in a dof scale liek dofmaster you have to put the "real" focal length of the lens.
You´ll fiind that 35mm lenses will give you a lot of dof if you use 5.6 and set it to 10 feet.
On some panasonic and leica (x1) cameras tehrés a dof scale in the screen wich varies as you set a given aperture.
With the 28mm fov xpro lens you´ll see it achieves hyperfocal almost immediately with 5.6...it´s wider than a 21mm lens because it´s 17mm real focal length.
Cheers!
Bike Tourist
Well-known
Thanks everybody — I think I've got it.
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Not quite. The acceptable circle of confusion on a crop sensor is correspondingly smaller (0.66 X) than on a FF camera for a given absolute print size. Depending on your requirements, critical focus still can be over a smaller range of focal distances than one might suppose.
Going back to FF and film, I've found that when shooting a high resolution film like ACROS or TMX the DoF scale on my ZM 21/2.8 is not even close to giving me critical focus. I have to stop down about 1.5 stops versus what the scale says.