Zorki 4 slow speeds- advice please

[Joao]

Hello
I seldom use the slow speeds(below 1/50, the ones with red numbers) with my Zorki-4. I tried to set the dial at 1/10 last week (after cocking the shutter) and the dial was stuck in that number. After some attempts, it was released but after that the winding knob did not cock the shutter!!! Some more attempts and things went back to normal (at speeds 1/50 and faster)
A second time I tried 1/10, again the dial was stuck, and it was very difficult to set another speed. Things are back to normal again, and the camera seems fine with speeds from 1/50 to 1/1000. This is not an emergency, as I almost never use slow speeds, but I would like to know the cause of this problem. Opinions and solutions are most welcome.
Thanks in advance
Joao

 

[giovatony]

I`m not sure but common sense tells me it could very well be a case of use em or lose em.
Me? I intend to run through the slow speeds periodically with my FSU`s.
John

 

[PhotoJim]

It's actually a good idea to run through all the shutter speeds periodically on any mechanically-timed shutter - whether it be a Zorki, Nikon, Leica, Synchro-Compur, whatever.

Mechanical stuff likes to be exercised.

I just ran all my Soviet and large format shutters through their shutter speed ranges yesterday. A couple of my large-format shutters, which needed CLAs, still need them 🙂 but they are accurate from 1/2 second and faster. (1 second is too slow on both of the problematic ones.) My Soviet shutters all seem fine, except for one that is too fast at 1/2 and 1 second but alright at the other speeds.

 

[wolves3012]

I've had this problem with mine - it was caused by a tiny mis-adjustment of the slow-speed mechanism. I'm curious about the 1/10th speed you mention - did you mean 1/15th or 1/8th or is there really a 1/10th on early Zorki 4s? I know the 3M had 1/10th but didn't know a 4 might have that.

 

[wolves3012]

By the way, if the problem is the same as mine was, you can move the shutter speed before you cock the shutter - moving it one step faster with the shutter uncocked will not do any damage. That cures the immediate problem of getting it off the stuck speed!

 

[Joao]

I'm curious about the 1/10th speed you mention - did you mean 1/15th or 1/8th or is there really a 1/10th on early Zorki 4s? I know the 3M had 1/10th but didn't know a 4 might have that.

Hi
My Zorki 4 number 5810780 has the following speeds: 1000, 500,250, 100, 50, 10, 5, 2, 1, 2.5 and B. Numbers below 50 are engraved in red. I seldom use them as I usually shoot handheld.
The problem is that the when I select "10" (shutter cocked), I fire and then I can wind but the shutter is not cocked anymore. It is really hard to move the dial to another speed, faster or slower. I do not feel very confident in using again such force in my camera...
Some photos of the speed dial below
Thanks for your opinion
Greetings
Joao

 

[Kim Coxon]

I think you will find that it is not 2.5 but 25. 😉 It is in the same position as the 1/30 setting on the later ones and will be the flash synch speed ie 1/25.

Kim

Hi
My Zorki 4 number 5810780 has the following speeds: 1000, 500,250, 100, 50, 10, 5, 2, 1, 2.5 and B. Numbers below 50 are engraved in red. I seldom use them as I usually shoot handheld.
Greetings
Joao

 

[wolves3012]

I have a feeling that I may know the answer to this - does this happen ONLY at 1/10th? Or does it happen on all slow speeds?

Check one more thing: with the back open, press the shutter release (it doesn't matter if it was cocked or not) and lock it, or keep the button pressed. Look underneath the release spring, in the very base of the camera. You will see a shaft directly under the film sprocket, poking through against the bottom spring. Can you wobble this by wobbling the bottom of the sprocket?

The speeds are interesting, I didn't know that early models had that range. I have a 1962 that has the more modern 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30th etc. My Zorki 3M has the same speeds your 4 has.

 

[Joao]

I think you will find that it is not 2.5 but 25. 😉 It is in the same position as the 1/30 setting on the later ones and will be the flash synch speed ie 1/25.

Kim

You may be right, I've never used it, and its position is unnusual in the logical sequence of the numbers, that's why I tought it was 2.5..
Thank you for your comment
Joao

 

[Joao]

I have a feeling that I may know the answer to this - does this happen ONLY at 1/10th? Or does it happen on all slow speeds?

Check one more thing: with the back open, press the shutter release (it doesn't matter if it was cocked or not) and lock it, or keep the button pressed. Look underneath the release spring, in the very base of the camera. You will see a shaft directly under the film sprocket, poking through against the bottom spring. Can you wobble this by wobbling the bottom of the sprocket?

.

I have only tried the 1/10 speed.... I will check your sugestion tonight
Regards
Joao

 

[Kim Coxon]

It has to do with the way the shutter works with regard to the difference between the fast and slow speeds and the engagement of the slow speed mech.

Kim

You may be right, I've never used it, and its position is unnusual in the logical sequence of the numbers, that's why I tought it was 2.5..
Thank you for your comment
Joao

 

[Joao]

I have a feeling that I may know the answer to this - does this happen ONLY at 1/10th? Or does it happen on all slow speeds?

Check one more thing: with the back open, press the shutter release (it doesn't matter if it was cocked or not) and lock it, or keep the button pressed. Look underneath the release spring, in the very base of the camera. You will see a shaft directly under the film sprocket, poking through against the bottom spring. Can you wobble this by wobbling the bottom of the sprocket?

.

Hello
The problem happens only at 1/10th, other slow speeds work fine.

If I understood your sugestion correctly, the shaft and the bottom of the sprocket move together: wobbling one wobles the other...

And I have used your sugestion of rotating the dial towards the faster speeds without cocking. This was an easy solution for my problem.

Once again I learned from your advice
Thanks a lot
Joao

 

[wolves3012]

Hello
The problem happens only at 1/10th, other slow speeds work fine.

If I understood your sugestion correctly, the shaft and the bottom of the sprocket move together: wobbling one wobles the other...

And I have used your sugestion of rotating the dial towards the faster speeds without cocking. This was an easy solution for my problem.

Once again I learned from your advice
Thanks a lot
Joao

The problem may be related to the wobble: the shaft at the bottom should not wobble more than a very small amount. If it does, there's wear in the crate where the shaft passes through. This can only be cured by enlarging the hole and fitting an insert (I did this to a Zorki 1 that had a similar problem of double-winding). Not an easy task since the whole camera has to be dismantled IF that is the cause. It may still also be that the slow-speed mechanism needs adjusting.