Jack Conrad
Well-known
I finally found an F3HP locally. Nice camera. It's my first Nikon and I hold no brand loyalty whatsoever to Nikon. Or to any brand, really.
First thing I did after reading this thread was to compare between my OM-1 vf and this F3 HP viewfinder.
To be fair the OM-1 is pretty ragged out and doesn't have the clearest view, but I'm really impressed with the F3 viewfinder. It is simply wonderful. It snaps to focus. The OM-1 that I have doesn't hold a candle to it.
Really, what luxury it is to have a camera whose viewfinder easily pops off for cleaning.
That's my favorite feature right there.
And then of course there's the famous build quality.
First thing I did after reading this thread was to compare between my OM-1 vf and this F3 HP viewfinder.
To be fair the OM-1 is pretty ragged out and doesn't have the clearest view, but I'm really impressed with the F3 viewfinder. It is simply wonderful. It snaps to focus. The OM-1 that I have doesn't hold a candle to it.
Really, what luxury it is to have a camera whose viewfinder easily pops off for cleaning.
That's my favorite feature right there.
And then of course there's the famous build quality.

Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Chris,
Thanks for the info, and I am aware of your stuggles. I also identify myself as an artist, but I have had to take care of myself from an early-early age without any family. I also have learned all about hardship, but fortunately I have outgrown it.
My choice was towork day jobs.
Always wishing you the best, we struggle.
Cal
Cal,
The problems I was talking about weren't my problems making a living. I have just always been a little skinny guy who wasn't physically strong, so I don't like carrying heavy gear. Thats why I've always liked the Olympus OM system 35mm SLRs too. Tiny! The F3 isn't bad though. The F4 and F5 are horribly heavy.
StephenPG
Established
I believe the lens was either a 50mm or 28mm, I can't remember which. the hood was a Yashica (I think) that fit over the lens and had a little tension screw.
The cord was going to my flash which at the time was a Sunpak 442 or 444, I can't remember. (I'm getting old) I used a Quantum battery also.
Most of the gear I used was mine and occasionally I would get a pool lens from the Miami Herald where I was a stringer. At the time, everyone there were using F3's or FM's and a few older F2's
When I was in high school I worked in the camera department of a store called Gold Triangle and would pick through the bargain bin for stuff I could use. This was from 1978 to 1981. I now see that all of the cameras we sold then are being talked about in this forum today.
The cord was going to my flash which at the time was a Sunpak 442 or 444, I can't remember. (I'm getting old) I used a Quantum battery also.
Most of the gear I used was mine and occasionally I would get a pool lens from the Miami Herald where I was a stringer. At the time, everyone there were using F3's or FM's and a few older F2's
When I was in high school I worked in the camera department of a store called Gold Triangle and would pick through the bargain bin for stuff I could use. This was from 1978 to 1981. I now see that all of the cameras we sold then are being talked about in this forum today.
Steve, you remember, which lens it is in the photo above? I never saw a Nikon rectangular lens hood, but then again, I never could say, I saw many, to begin with ;-)
It that a flash on a cable, stowed away or another gadget?
Now, that I found these beautiful old cameras for enjoyment, it is hard, to believe, they were once used as the pinnacle of photo journalist tools during the better part of the 80's.
Too different todays electronic wonders seem to be (although the ergonomics and balance of a D3 does not feel much different indeed from the MD-4'ed F3HP).
@ Gil: I think similar to you, but the FM3a, I still refuse, to sell is kept, as it is just so much smaller and lighter than the F3HP, although I find the meter display even worse in low light and the viewfinder is a peephole by comparison.
The F3HP though really made my mouth watering for an F2 actually ;-) If I find a nice black paint sample, brassed or mint, I will hardly resist.
menos
Veteran
The F2AS or SB have great meters and are savagly overbuilt, but the motor drive is less developed than the F3. Make sure you get one with a good meter. In an earlier post I mentioned a mint F2AS that I named the "Heartbreaker" because I had to return it to Adorama because of a faulty meter.
Dirk, you have good taste!
Cal
Thanks Cal - is there any stage in between working and not working meter, or is it just good or bad - a not working meter, I can detect, but one, that is going to be wonky … ?
Congrats Jack on the F3 - Nikon actually ain't too bad. I think, there are a few lenses, that compete with the famed "Leica lens quality" and overall, they build wonderful, reliable cameras. Even in todays digital age, a Nikon DSLR holds it's own in handling and feel, compared to a similar model from the competition (that is no brand raving, but a simple fact, I based my decision, to go for Nikon stuff instead of Canon some time ago).
Thanks Steve for the Info - time is racing eh?
JayGannon
Well-known
Whats the best bag for the buck Nikon lens. something unusual, I got the 55 2.8 Macro and that blew me away any other hidden gems?
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Whats the best bag for the buck Nikon lens. something unusual, I got the 55 2.8 Macro and that blew me away any other hidden gems?
All their Micro lenses are excellent. Another hidden gem is the 135mm/3.5, both the 4/3 pre-AI Nikkor-Q and the later 4/4 design - the cheapest manual focus Nikkors (apart from the E series), and some of their best in IQ.
grainhound
Well-known
50mm f2.0 and 200mm f4 AI/AIS. Both are cheap and highly recommended by people who know more about these things than I do. Check http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html.
mynikonf2
OEM
The following Non-AI lens are exceptional:
20/3.5 UD
24/2.8 N
28/2 N
45/2.8 GN (9-blade, before serial #725xxx)
5cm/2 S (9-blade, before serial #534xxx)
55/1.2 S
58/1.4 S
135/2.8
85/1.8 H
180/2.8 P
really can not go wrong with any of these IMHO.
20/3.5 UD
24/2.8 N
28/2 N
45/2.8 GN (9-blade, before serial #725xxx)
5cm/2 S (9-blade, before serial #534xxx)
55/1.2 S
58/1.4 S
135/2.8
85/1.8 H
180/2.8 P
really can not go wrong with any of these IMHO.
menos
Veteran
I got one of the close focus (0.2m) 28 2.8 Ai-s lenses recently.
This thing is a marvelous lens!
It is tiny, light, fairly fast with f2.8 and sharp, sharp, sharp!
They are not so cheap though as some of the bargains.
Bjorn Rorslet has an older best of best Nikon primes on his website - some interesting insight is posted as well.
Crosscheck particular lenses with other sources and you might get a good picture about one or the other interesting lens.
I am looking for a minty 105 1.8 Ai-s now, and then a 180 2.8 Ai-s and, … .
This thing is a marvelous lens!
It is tiny, light, fairly fast with f2.8 and sharp, sharp, sharp!
They are not so cheap though as some of the bargains.
Bjorn Rorslet has an older best of best Nikon primes on his website - some interesting insight is posted as well.
Crosscheck particular lenses with other sources and you might get a good picture about one or the other interesting lens.
I am looking for a minty 105 1.8 Ai-s now, and then a 180 2.8 Ai-s and, … .
JayGannon
Well-known
I think a 28 close focus (I shoot a lot with 35 so wider might be nice) and a 105 1.8 are on my list next.
hans voralberg
Veteran
The Nikkor 58/1.4 is also a unique lens worth trying. It's not tack sharp, but very mellow and smooth, classic looks if you're into it.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Although single coated, the 35/2.0 Nikkor-O is exceptional for B&W and can be bought with little money.
I often use a 55/2.8 Macro as a normal lens when I don't need the speed because of the rendering and crisp-crisp focus.
Cal
I often use a 55/2.8 Macro as a normal lens when I don't need the speed because of the rendering and crisp-crisp focus.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I just wanted to bump this thread.
BTW I'm still in love with my modded F3 non HP MD-4 Noct-Nikkor rig with AH-4 handstrap.
I'm thinking of modding my F3P because the illumination helps even under good lighting conditions.
Cal
BTW I'm still in love with my modded F3 non HP MD-4 Noct-Nikkor rig with AH-4 handstrap.
I'm thinking of modding my F3P because the illumination helps even under good lighting conditions.
Cal
sykotec
Well-known
I just got a BGN condition 105/1.8 from KEH for christmas - definitely a worthy addition to my (small) collection of Nikon glass. It's a LITTLE bulkier on the FM2N than thw 50/1.8 AF-D that usually lives there....
oh hell, who am I kidding? you mount the 50 to the FM2N, but you mount the FM2N to the 105....
oh hell, who am I kidding? you mount the 50 to the FM2N, but you mount the FM2N to the 105....
I think a 28 close focus (I shoot a lot with 35 so wider might be nice) and a 105 1.8 are on my list next.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I also own the105/1.8 AIS. Earlier I also owned the 105/2.5. In comparing the two you will find that the 105/1.8 has more aperture blades and an even more creamy Bokeh than the legendary 105/2.5. I also like that the hood is built in.
This lens paints in a beautiful way.
Cal
This lens paints in a beautiful way.
Cal
nksdks
Established
Hi everyone,
I recently joined RFF and yesterday I bought an F3. Evil thread I guess...
Still in the post, looking forward to it.
I recently joined RFF and yesterday I bought an F3. Evil thread I guess...
Still in the post, looking forward to it.
sykotec
Well-known
exactly - the 105/2.5 is great, but not what I'm looking for. your signature mentions the 24/2, also on my hit-list as an 'upgrade' to my current 24/2.8 someday.
the built-in hood IS great - makes a wonderful package with the FM2N, with a 50 in the pocket just in case (tho swapping means putting the 105 in said pocket!)
to at least TRY and fit into the original subject.... the F3 is quite the amazing package, especially with the MD-4 added for both winding AND handling. that said, I sold my last F3P about a year ago. low light with moving objects just works better with the FM2N - LED metering display vs the LCD, and the faster shutter makes it a bit more tolerable to deal should you have fast/pushed film loaded and suddenly find yourself in daylight, or just WANT to use your glass wide open.
the built-in hood IS great - makes a wonderful package with the FM2N, with a 50 in the pocket just in case (tho swapping means putting the 105 in said pocket!)
to at least TRY and fit into the original subject.... the F3 is quite the amazing package, especially with the MD-4 added for both winding AND handling. that said, I sold my last F3P about a year ago. low light with moving objects just works better with the FM2N - LED metering display vs the LCD, and the faster shutter makes it a bit more tolerable to deal should you have fast/pushed film loaded and suddenly find yourself in daylight, or just WANT to use your glass wide open.
I also own the105/1.8 AIS. Earlier I also owned the 105/2.5. In comparing the two you will find that the 105/1.8 has more aperture blades and an even more creamy Bokeh than the legendary 105/2.5. I also like that the hood is built in.
This lens paints in a beautiful way.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
exactly - the 105/2.5 is great, but not what I'm looking for. your signature mentions the 24/2, also on my hit-list as an 'upgrade' to my current 24/2.8 someday.
the built-in hood IS great - makes a wonderful package with the FM2N, with a 50 in the pocket just in case (tho swapping means putting the 105 in said pocket!)
to at least TRY and fit into the original subject.... the F3 is quite the amazing package, especially with the MD-4 added for both winding AND handling. that said, I sold my last F3P about a year ago. low light with moving objects just works better with the FM2N - LED metering display vs the LCD, and the faster shutter makes it a bit more tolerable to deal should you have fast/pushed film loaded and suddenly find yourself in daylight, or just WANT to use your glass wide open.
While not a RF'er lense my 24/2.0 allows focusing down to 1 foot. It is an interesting look shooting wide and extreamely close.
BTW I have found that the mod that actvates the light whenever the meter is on to be a great workaround to the limited viewing of the LCD's under dim lighting. The F3's metering has proven itself accurate and has worked for me when shooting at night with a tripod doing long exposures. For me a F3 is a great asset for night photography taking full advantage of a Noct-Nikkor.
Cal
Biggles
My cup runneth amok.
I doubt that any F3 that does not look like it's been a newspaper or war correspondent camera will need any attention anyway. Probably needs new door seals and a mirror foam...
Walked mine in to Nippon Photo Clinic in New York City last week, along with a 55mm f/2.8 Micro that needed its helicoil un-stuck, and those foams & seals did indeed need replacing. That, some cleaning & re-lubing, and a pair of new batteries wee all it needed. They also wiped every speck of dust, dirt, & patina off the body & lens. Whole rig looks and feels brand new.
I popped a roll of Delta 3200 in it, set the ASA dial to 6400, and am now bursting to go shoot some live music stage shots.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Walked mine in to Nippon Photo Clinic in New York City last week, along with a 55mm f/2.8 Micro that needed its helicoil un-stuck, and those foams & seals did indeed need replacing. That, some cleaning & re-lubing, and a pair of new batteries wee all it needed. They also wiped every speck of dust, dirt, & patina off the body & lens. Whole rig looks and feels brand new.
I popped a roll of Delta 3200 in it, set the ASA dial to 6400, and am now bursting to go shoot some live music stage shots.
Congrates.
Cal
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