What have you just BOUGHT?

Jbennett68 said:
Gone a little crazy this week but hopefully I'll be having a square image weekend by Friday. Ordered a Rolleiflex 2.8D Planar from Jimmy Koh and a Tenax II with 40mm Sonar off of eBay. Tenax looks good but from a non camera person so it's a gamble but it was cheaper than all the sold ones.
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Bought my 2.8e from Jimmy Koh only a few months ago. Arrived in great working condition - he says he CLA’s the Rollei cameras he sells. Just bought a lens hood for it from him that should arrive in a few days…I’ve saved him as a favorite seller on eBay and regularly check to see what else he has to sell.
 
Wow. Impressive knowledge here.
Ummm and now you (kai san) have 2 of those "rare" clips! Wonder if they really sell for that asking price? I suspect that the mono jack adapter sells for a bit less 🤔😉
 
Leon C said:
Nikon SP Meter Bakelite Retainer Clip.
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Thank you very much, Leon C ! And now I see that the translucent part is an attachment for the same meter to use for direct metering. The jack adapter is most likely unrelated, but the leather box has contained an SP meter together with these accessories. Although I have a Nikon SP I don't think I will spend 300 to 400 USD on a meter that most likely will not work.
 
rfaspen said:
Wow. Impressive knowledge here.
Ummm and now you (kai san) have 2 of those "rare" clips! Wonder if they really sell for that asking price? I suspect that the mono jack adapter sells for a bit less 🤔😉
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I doubt that the retainer clip will sell for CAD 195 as I paid a small fraction of that for the parts in the picture. But I'm open to any bids. 😁
 
rfaspen said:
Wow. Impressive knowledge here.
Ummm and now you (kai san) have 2 of those "rare" clips! Wonder if they really sell for that asking price? I suspect that the mono jack adapter sells for a bit less 🤔😉
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It was easier than I thought, thanks to Google Images, I just isolated the clip from pic and ran it through the image search! 😉
 
boojum said:
That was always my dream camera back when they were new. The 3.5 was OK, but the 2.8 was talking to me. I hope you have a ton of fun with it. And show us some of that fun, too. ;o)
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I got my first rolleiflex a few weeks ago. A beat up but working fine 3.5 that I just ran my first roll of film through. I really like shooting waist level.
 
A very clean Durst F30, it came with a Soligor 50mm but have options for that, not been in the darkroom since the 90s so going to be fun, it also came with all the bits in the box, Chemicals unopened and 90% the rest of the bits never used, bought it all locally for £40.

What was interesting and made me chuckle was that before I purchased it I did a quick dig around and found some old posts, not on here, and some of what is said about it isn't true at all so think those giving 'advice' at the time had never seen one, never mind used one.

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Leon C said:
A very clean Durst F30, it came with a Soligor 50mm but have options for that, not been in the darkroom since the 90s so going to be fun, it also came with all the bits in the box, Chemicals unopened and 90% the rest of the bits never used, bought it all locally for £40.

What was interesting and made me chuckle was that before I purchased it I did a quick dig around and found some old posts, not on here, and some of what is said about it isn't true at all so think those giving 'advice' at the time had never seen one, never mind used one.
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Congratulations for your purchase. http://jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/durst/Durst_F30.pdf With a little luck the chemicals will be OK; for fixer do a clip test (1+4 should clear a piece of film in ~30s, 1+9 in ~1min); for paper developer slight discoloration is OK, first signs of image should appear in 10-15s.

Make sure your enlarger is well aligned. Most critical is lens board versus negative stage, but that is fixed by construction and the Durst is well built. The head can be rotated for horizontal projection, so check its normal position with a spirit level versus the base board.

You may buy a more upscale lens than the Soligor, but if you do tests at, say f/8 or f/11, you will see little of no difference.

You might replace the incandescent bulb with a LED bulb of similar dimensions, also frosted, "neutral white" (4000K). Much less heat, no risk of film buckling. However, I'm unsure of the possible impact of the opaque collar found at the base of most of the LED E27 bulbs on the evenness of illumination; you need to perform the lamp alignment as described in the manual and test.

so think those giving 'advice' at the time had never seen one, never mind used one
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What do you think? this is an internet forum 😆
 
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Getting my Nikon AF-S 28-70 f2.8 zoom's AF fixed. I've had it for about 10 years and it has taken alot of sharp and clear photos on my digital and film cameras, but it recently stopped focusing, in either AF or MF, past 10-15 feet. Getting it fixed, despite my having multiple other lenses in this general range for various mounts because it is the only zoom I can think of that offers the combination of: (1) being an AF/MF lens that focuses pretty silently; (2) having a real aperture ring, that allows it to be used on Nikon MF bodies (including my FE2 and FM3a); (3) having a mechanical aperture (allowing it to be used to its full capability on my Nikon F6 -- which cannot control electronic aperture lenses); and (4) being of professional build and very high optical quality (with aspherical and extra low dispersion elements); and (5) that works excellently for both film and digital, as it came out at the end of the 1990's when the photo industry was transitioning to digital from film. I really can't think of any other mid-range focal length zoom -- made by anyone -- that combine all of these qualities.
 
It was the Northern Lights. And the King Tides. I never would have done this otherwise, honest.

I am weak for retro lenses. And I have stocked up on 50's. I have the lovely old '43 CZJ f/1.5, the '57 KMZ J8, some nice Canon LTM's and the Amotal. But between the Northern Lights and the King Tides I got a dose of the crazies and ran out and bought three retro reproductions: the Thypoch Eureka, the LLL Elcan and the Thypoch Simera f/2.0. The Eureka and the Elcan are both very well made. The Simera is not here yet. They were all at reduced sale prices, thankfully.

I have only been able to shoot the Eureka so far and it is very nice. And for the price, <US$500, it is as cheap as a good used 50 and brand new. And it has the retro charm of warm color and not over critical sharpness. The Elcan in a few test shots promises to be good. The Simera is not yet released. It is supposed to be released on December 4 and hopefully I will see it soon after.

I have made arrangements to test a slew of 50's using a display at our local Maritime Museum (www.crmm.org). I'll just do three shots with each lens: wide open, f/4.0 and f/8.0. In quick succession in the same place so the conditions are pretty much the same. I will wait until the Simera shows up to do the tests. I will post the tests on Flickr and put up a link here.
 
I bought an Sony NEX-3N with LCD issues to swap over the the good screen on my NEX-3n with shutter issues. The price of the NEX-3N was about the cost of the shutter itself.
 
The Rolleiflex 2.8D Planar came yesterday as well as the Tenax II. Tenax looks great. Just a few Zeiss bumps on the back. Everything works and glass is clean but the advance lever is slow to return to starting position and the focus tab is a little stiff. I guess it's to be expected with 86 Year old grease. I'll try to teardown the camera just enough to lightly clean and lube the advance but I'm scared to disassemble the lens so I'll probably just live with it.
 

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The Plaubel Makina 67 arrived on Wednesday. It's extremely clean and everything works beautifully ... except the viewfinder. It looks like something in the finder assembly might have been dislodged in shipping, it's as if there is something dark covering half the view. The rangefinder works fine, but obviously this has to be repaired.

The seller was very responsive to my queries. I called Advance Camera: the tech thinks it's a simple issue, obviously can't know until he takes it apart. The seller offered an immediate partial refund to cover the repair cost, and also said, "No worries: if it proves unrepairable due to broken parts, I'll take care of you with a full refund or another example."

So it's off to the shop...

G
 
A couple of CL lenses which I once had 12 months ago but sold .
The 55/135 and the 35 lux.
I figured that I`d move over to the SL system when I bought the SL2s but apart from two SL full frame lenses I`ve found it far to heavy as a daily carry .
I still kept the CL body so now am in the (expensive ) process of buying back the lenses again.
They must be still popular because the prices appear .... err healthy.
The upside is that despite the reduction in MP of a crop lens on a full frame body the SL2s (at least for me) is much more attractive using the CL lenses.
Oh dear .
Live and hopefully learn.
 
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