Steve George
Established
I know this has been asked before, but not for a while. I'm currently cutting my film leaders by hand with scissors but I'm lazy and like the idea of a template, a knife, and a neater cut. I'm not £50 lazy though which is the price they tend to go for on the auction site. Does anyone know of any alternative? If I had a workshop I'd make my own as there's enough info online I think but I don't have a workshop unfortunately. Yet anyway. 
Thanks
Thanks
burancap
Veteran
Google: PRINZ ABLON
These copies used to be cheap, as in <$10USD. Unfortunately, that no longer seems to be the case -but you might get lucky!
These copies used to be cheap, as in <$10USD. Unfortunately, that no longer seems to be the case -but you might get lucky!
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
And you actually don't need to trim the film at all if you insert a business card in front of the takeup sprockets before loading the film. Set the shutter to T so you can make sure the film is fully inserted. It really works.
FrankS
Registered User
Just keep using scissors and eye-balling it. This way you are not dependent on an unnecessary gadget.
pete hogan
Well-known
FrankS +1
The shape cut is not so critical. I start the cut between perf 24 and 25.
The shape cut is not so critical. I start the cut between perf 24 and 25.
thegman
Veteran
I got one of the cheaper copies on eBay, seems to work fine. I did not know the business card trick though, maybe I'll try it.
Simon Bruxelles
Established
The danger with scissors is it's very easy to make a tiny nick which turns into a tear when you wind on. If a bit of film breaks off it can lead to ruined film, a jammed shutter and a pricey repair. I know, I've been there.
Ljós
Well-known
I would also agree that you do not need to angle for an ABLON if your main purpose is to trim the leader of film that comes in normal ready-for-use-canisters.
For loading FILCA or IXMOO cassettes in total darkness, the ABLON really comes in handy. I do not want to be reminded of what I paid for mine, but everytime I use it to load IXMOOs I am glad I own it ;-)
The suggestion above to look for "Prinz" cutting templates is good, but beware of "moon" prices from some sellers, which border on ABLON territory.
For loading FILCA or IXMOO cassettes in total darkness, the ABLON really comes in handy. I do not want to be reminded of
what I paid for mine, but everytime I use it to load IXMOOs I am glad I own it ;-)The suggestion above to look for "Prinz" cutting templates is good, but beware of "moon" prices from some sellers, which border on ABLON territory.
burancap
Veteran
Agreed. Fortunately, I got mine prior to the "hike."
To be honest, I didn't really care that much for it and even modified it to remove the tongue portion. I found that it was awkward to use otherwise. When I have to cut the tongue for a cassette -I just 45 it.
And on that remark ... yes, I typically just cut the leader itself manually by counting out 24 sprocket holes and cutting after the 22nd.
thegman
Veteran
This happened on my first roll, the film snapped, but I got it out in one piece without any damage I could see to the camera. After that, I ordered my ABLON copy, and it worked fine with a sharp modelling knife.
Silme Ea
Member
I admit it is very appealing and there is even something snobbish in using an ABLON, but come on, is it really necessary? I now have a bottom-loader nearly for 3 years, shot a few dozen of rolls and always trimmed film not too precisely. It faulted only two times: one it was inherent camera malfunction, the other - I mishooked film leader to a spool
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Although I have a real ABLON, I find it no more use than the scissors on my Swiss Army knife. Less, in fact. I'm not even sure where it is. But the scissors are better than piddling around with business cards: it's a LOT quicker to trim the ends when you're loading your cassettes.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
As long as you cut without nicks or sharp corners, and don't cut through a sprocket hole you'll be fine.
Classique
Well-known
I found a neat way to insert film into barnacks without cutting or using the card trick. Actually learned it from a Korean blogger who used barnacks for a long time.
1. Insert film end into the spool clip and pull out enough to insert into the body (no cutting, stock film end)
2. Fully insert the canister side while for the spool side, let it hang near the cavity (basically spool is slightly inserted but not all the way)
3. When the film canister is fully inserted, fully insert the spool side
4. Close the bottom cover and shoot one or two blank shots and it is ready to go.
Now at first I was not completely sure if it worked so I checked with the shutter on T mode. When I checked, it was perfectly inserted!
He also has a video on the process here towards the bottom of the post:
http://blog.naver.com/einpark?Redirect=Log&logNo=150098317485&from=postView
It loads slow but maybe it will be easier to understand when you see how he does it.
1. Insert film end into the spool clip and pull out enough to insert into the body (no cutting, stock film end)
2. Fully insert the canister side while for the spool side, let it hang near the cavity (basically spool is slightly inserted but not all the way)
3. When the film canister is fully inserted, fully insert the spool side
4. Close the bottom cover and shoot one or two blank shots and it is ready to go.
Now at first I was not completely sure if it worked so I checked with the shutter on T mode. When I checked, it was perfectly inserted!
He also has a video on the process here towards the bottom of the post:
http://blog.naver.com/einpark?Redirect=Log&logNo=150098317485&from=postView
It loads slow but maybe it will be easier to understand when you see how he does it.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Well that's just it -- practice makes perfect, to be sure, but I find making the cut just right takes time. And I have had happen to me what someone else mentioned, where a small extra nick becomes a tear. The credit card thing is a lot quicker.
Peter_Jones
Well-known
When I had a Barnack, I almost always used the business card method. Quick and easy. Kept a card in the case, and a couple in my wallet.
MartinP
Veteran
I simply do the loading as recommended by Leica et al. The thread comes up every six months so here is my previous answer . . .
"Trimming the leader helps avoid getting the edge caught in the gate/pressure-plate and then tearing or jamming. The Leica (and Zorki) recommended method involves simply having the film cut correctly - this works fine without removing the lens or farting about with cards etc. The card included with early cameras was, according to the instruction booklet with my camera, intended for exposure notes and can indeed often be found covered in smudged pencil marks.
As you drop in the take-up spool and wiggle the cassette in to place, turn the take-up spool slightly backwards (towards the cassette) so that the springiness of the film lifts it over the sprockets. Doing that makes it completely painless.
The actual film trimming is conveniently done with a pair of small nail-scissors and for the twenty perforation measurement you can check which of your fingers is the correct length, or put a couple of pen marks on the case, or tiny bits of tape as markers inside the baseplate etcetera, etcetera. Simple to do when you have a working method organised, but there is perhaps a 'shock' reaction at first . . . "
"Trimming the leader helps avoid getting the edge caught in the gate/pressure-plate and then tearing or jamming. The Leica (and Zorki) recommended method involves simply having the film cut correctly - this works fine without removing the lens or farting about with cards etc. The card included with early cameras was, according to the instruction booklet with my camera, intended for exposure notes and can indeed often be found covered in smudged pencil marks.
As you drop in the take-up spool and wiggle the cassette in to place, turn the take-up spool slightly backwards (towards the cassette) so that the springiness of the film lifts it over the sprockets. Doing that makes it completely painless.
The actual film trimming is conveniently done with a pair of small nail-scissors and for the twenty perforation measurement you can check which of your fingers is the correct length, or put a couple of pen marks on the case, or tiny bits of tape as markers inside the baseplate etcetera, etcetera. Simple to do when you have a working method organised, but there is perhaps a 'shock' reaction at first . . . "
Dralowid
Michael
Photax made one too
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Did you see what a wonderful hood this guy has on his Elmar? It seems to have f-stop control too!
Erik.
Thomas78
Well-known
I cut the film ends for my FILCA casettes free hand (about 45 ° angle) in the dark, the exact angle is not that critical for the fixation at the spool.
+1
You can do the cutting without any time pressure at home at your desk - IMHO much better than fiddling with a business card or removing the lens in the field...