Anyone here use a Hypo Clear when developing?

Pirate

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I don't think I've used any Hypo Clear and just wondering if it really helps?

I just read that there seems to be just a tiny bit of Hypo left in the film and papers after washing so Hypo Clear is recommended, but of course, asking here is always the best.
 
I'm anxious to hear responses from some of the more avid home processors here. I'm wondering the same, after having used hypo on my last 2 rolls to try to clear a little of the perceived fog I'm seeing.

Good question!
 
Yes, I always have. 2 minute water wash, 2 minute Hypo wash with constant agitation and then 8ish minute water wash. I have never had any cloudiness issues.
 
It isn't needed for film. The plastic base of film doesn't absorb chemicals, and fixer washes from the emulsion in 10 minutes or so without hypo clear. Even with it, you need the same wash time to get the hypo clear out. Its a waste of time and money.
 
I do use hypo clear with fiber base printing paper, because it makes the paper wash much faster. This is readily seen when testing for residual fixer with HT-2.

Film washes very fast without it, so I do not use it to speed washing of film. It makes the process that much simpler.
 
How about with RC paper?

RC paper doesn't need it. 5 minute water wash removes all fixer from RC. Fiber base paper actually REQUIRES it, plain washing will not make a fiber based print archival.

When I did printing in the darkroom before my health problems ended that, I soaked my fiber prints in a large tray till all were done, then gave 5 minutes in the Zone VI archival washer followed by 5 minutes of hypo clear, then back to the washer for an hour.
 
I don't know that a hypo clear will remove fog. I think it simply helps to wash away traces of fixer from film and fiber-based enlarging paper.

I generally use it with film. It helps to reduce the final wash time, which saves me on the water bill.
 
Yes, I use it. 2 minutes for film, 2 for RC paper, 10 minutes for FB paper and washing for
5 minutes ( film ) 10 minutes for paper.
 
Test, test, test. Testing for residual hyposulfite is not hard. If hypo clear makes a difference, use it. If it doesn't, don't.

Testing will show you that you only need it for FB paper.

Marty
 
I've always used it for film. To my understanding it shortens washing times. I have also found that it removes some of the anti-halation dye. Of course this is how I was taught to process, but in to my eyes the negatives washed without a 2 min hypo clear cycle seem to have more of a purple tint than those washed with just water.
 
With film and PE/RC papers the profit is marginal. But with fiber papers it will shorten the wash cycle tremendously. In running water the PE/RC papers can be washed within 2 minutes. Film 10-15 minutes, a bit depending on the temperature so a HCA is not necessary.

The main ingredient is Sodiumsulfite but you can also use Sodiumcarbonate (Soda) but this has the disadvantage the emulsion will be pretty soft.
 
quick hijack. I don't remember where I saw it but, I think you can make hypoclear by making a solution of sodium sulfite and water. Can anyone confirm this?
 
I use Heico Permawash with film. Somewhere a read that it not only clears fixer but makes the negative more archival. I'm starting to think that I may have read this in some Heico literature and that it's a myth, if what is written here is true.
 
quick hijack. I don't remember where I saw it but, I think you can make hypoclear by making a solution of sodium sulfite and water. Can anyone confirm this?

Yes, the Heico Permawash I've used lists Sodium Sulfite and Ammonium Sulfite as ingrediants.

After reading the above, though, I will skip the hypo clear. I didn't know it was not necessary with film and RC papers. Live and Learn!
 
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