Leica LTM Barnack film loading, a long leader idea

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

sreed2006

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There have been lots of discussions about loading film into a Barnack, especially discussions about how to shape the film leader.

It seems to me that the best option is to have a long film leader. One way to get that long leader is by cutting the film either freehand or with a tool, such as the Leica ABLON. I don't have an ABLON, and my scissor skills are not good enough to get a smooth curve that ends up between sprocket holes near the canister. (A brain surgeon I am not.)

How about this? Get some scrap 35mm film, cut a length 4" long, then cut that down the middle length-wise. Use double sided tape to attach a strip of that film onto the leader sticking out of the film canister (being careful to line up the sprocket holes and make sure there are no loose ends). Put you fingers all over any exposed sticky tape till the sticky is gone, and then you've got a long leader ready to load.

And since a picture is worth a thousand words:


Long film leader idea.
by sreed2006, on Flickr
 
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Have you tried this with 36 exp. film?

Isn't the extra film length too much for the total diameter on the take-up spool? If not, nice solution!
 
I just made the extender this morning, and have not put it in my IIIg yet because it already has film in it.

When rewinding the film, I always leave the leader sticking out (stop rewinding when the film releases from the take up spool). So there won't be a problem with winding too much film into the canister, since none of the leader will go into the canister.

It might even be possible to re-use the scrap film leader. So this is a pretty cheap solution.
 
If you have, or know someone with, a 3d printer there are also two designs to help...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:462016

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1951048

Something kind of great about 3d printing a part for a Barnack. :)

I've used the film cutting tool design, going to try printing the ABLON design now. Don't really need it for my Nicca 5l but the end would be handy for FILCA cassettes.

Shawn
 
Shawn, those are cool. Thanks for the links.

I looked for an ABLON for sale. I'm cheap, so I still don't have one.

I am thinking that if you extend the film leader with scrap film, there is no loss of film from the canister to create a leader.
 
Nice idea.

I cut the film free hand and it works for me.

I'd be worried that some of the glue on the tape could get on to the shutter curtains, either advance or rewind.
 
Nice idea, thanks for passing it on. I now insert a thin business card vertically behind the film gate, and then load an uncut, normal film behind it, then gently withdraw the card. Works fine. Quick and easy.
 
I'd be worried that some of the glue on the tape could get on to the shutter curtains, either advance or rewind.

Good point. The implementation could use a few improvements, especially to make sure it doesn't cause jams or get glue where it doesn't belong. This was my first pass - the alpha version.

I'll play with it a little more, and run some test rolls.
 
The business card worked with my II and III but the IIIf seems to be fussier. I'm doing it by the book. I too would worry about any adhesive going past the shutter curtains.
 
Camera needs to be serviced by knowledgeable person and manual needs to be read once. If it is not done, then...
There have been lots of discussion about loading film into a Barnack, especially discussions about how to shape the film leader.
...
Here is no problem to cut film as in the manual or shown at the camera shutter crate bottom. With scissors.
And if Barnack camera is serviced right here is no card needed to load the film. I have no problems with IIf. At all.

But idea in OP is good idea. Too much film wasted for leader with Barnack type.
 
Here is no problem to cut film as in the manual or shown at the camera shutter crate bottom. With scissors.

More rolls of film have been severely damaged by me with a pair of scissors than I care to recall. I just cannot seem to get that curve near the cassette correct. There's extra nicks in the film where it can hang up and rip, or the film still won't load and wind on properly. I'm almost like, "How to make a 36 exposure roll into a 24 exposure roll in 8 painful steps."

The business card solution looks pretty good. I will try that, too.
 
I just cannot seem to get that curve near the cassette correct. There's extra nicks in the film where it can hang up and rip, or the film still won't load and wind on properly.

Fortunately, the curve doesn't have to be exact. There is no need to make the cut edge parallel with the edge of the film. I just do it with scissors, freehand, cutting in between the sprocket holes and then curving it slightly to head downhill at an angle to re-join the factory leader. As long as it clears the film rail inside the camera, its good.

I should post a picture.
 
I'm with Lynn. On my III and IIIf I insert a Sydney transport card that you put through the turnstile gate and put the film behind that.
 
Hold the film leader lengthwise between your index and middle finger. That's basically the length of leader you need. You should be able to cut the film along your finger with a pair of scissors without injuring yourself. Now cut inwards from the edge between two suitably-located sprocket holes at about 45deg until you meet your first cut. Job done.

No need for an ABLON. No need to stick random scraps of film together. No need for business cards.
 
As long as your cuts begin and end between the sprocket holes, that is the main thing to worry about. I don't have an ablon, but Prinz made a version of the tool, and I don't much care for it, so I free-hand the trimming. I end my cut 20 sprocket holes from the start.

PF
 
I use this when I cut a roll of 36 down and want to save 3 exposures.

U se strong tape, not scotch clear made for paper. Quality masking is OK. Watch the rewind to be sure film is advancing.

When they went to short leader in the 60`s, film stayed the same length. No need to add extra.

There is a knock off ABLON that have the correct leader profile, but missing the point profile to go into the film spool on Leica cassettes which you may never use. They are worth $5 at most. Use a razor knife to trim.
 
if you extend the film leader with scrap film, there is no loss of film from the canister to create a leader.

Interesting idea, and apart from the cutting the film with scissors issue this is a good point. A couple frames is a couple frames.
 
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