Leica LTM Barnack film loading, a long leader idea

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses
lynnb said:
Nice idea, thanks for passing it on. I now insert a thin business card vertically behind the film gate, and then load an uncut, normal film behind it, then gently withdraw the card. Works fine. Quick and easy.
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I used to use a single thickness of litho film or sheet film. It always worked perfectly.
 
Another vote for the business card. A thin plastic card works best. Using a card makes loading a Barnack almost as easy as manually loading any camera.
 
sreed2006 said:
Shawn, those are cool. Thanks for the links.

I looked for an ABLON for sale. I'm cheap, so I still don't have one.

I am thinking that if you extend the film leader with scrap film, there is no loss of film from the canister to create a leader.
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I've got an Ablon that I'm not using. But yeah they're not cheap..
 
Possibly the easiest way to get a smooth curve that ends up between sprocket holes near the canister is to start there. That's my method anyway, although I love your idea of simply slapping that extra piece of film on there and getting on w/ it.
 
farlymac said:
As long as your cuts begin and end between the sprocket holes, that is the main thing to worry about. I don't have an ablon, but Prinz made a version of the tool, and I don't much care for it, so I free-hand the trimming. I end my cut 20 sprocket holes from the start.

PF
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As the man says: not a worry even for a klutz like myself. I count 21 sprocket holes and draw a line with a pen that terminates between the 21st and 22nd holes.
 
I trim the film leader with a normal pair of scissors. I usually cut 20 holes space. Sometimes the curve I cut out looks like the great wave off kanagawa, but never had problems.
 
I appreciate all the comments on this subject. Apparently I have been having more troubles than your average bear not destroying film.

While methods of getting film loaded into a Barnack easily have been well explained, because I went to the trouble of making a test roll I thought I might as well test it.

Results of the experiment so far: Before loading the roll shown in the picture above into a IIIg, all of the exposed double-sided tape was thoroughly rubbed off with a paper towel so that there was not any adhesive exposed. That double sided tape is very sticky, and would be bad for the camera internals. I think using masking tape is a better idea (thanks Ronald M). A 4" long additional leader is too long. A 3 1/2" long additional leader would be better. The film loaded fairly easily (once the take-up spool was rotated enough to take up the slack from the leader being too long). The film advanced fine, and the rewind knob rotated just like it should when advancing the film. I advanced 3 frames and set the frame counter to 0. And that's how it sits at the moment.
 
I'm with lynnb, and others who use a card. Old railway tickets (in GB, anyway- other countries may have different shapes and sizes) work perfectly. No need at all to reshape the film leader.
 
It helps me to use the right scissors. I use the tiny one on my Swiss Army Victorinox "executive" knife. The tiny size makes it easier to cut neatly between the sprocket holes.

Even with the added leader removed before processing, the film will be longer than normal owing to the two or three extra frames shot on film that is normally trimmed off before loading on the developing reel. That would make it too long for my Nikor stainless reels.
 
There have been lots of discussions about loading film into a Barnack, especially discussions about how to shape the film leader.

It seems to me that the best option is to have a long film leader. One way to get that long leader is by cutting the film either freehand or with a tool, such as the Leica ABLON. I don't have an ABLON, and my scissor skills are not good enough to get a smooth curve that ends up between sprocket holes near the canister. (A brain surgeon I am not.)

sread2006,
I recently bought a prime condition Leica IIIG and found trimming the leader to be a little tedious. I looked for an ABLON on Ebay and the sellers are pricing what is a cheap piece of hinged plate at rather expensive prices. I was lucky enough to find a used Japanese ABLON knockoff for very little money.
Just like the ABLON, it has sprocket dimples, a hinge and a built in trim template. Keep looking and maybe you will be lucky too.:)
 
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Interesting idea, l use the scissor technique, however, l saw someone online, (youtube), use his teeth to start the cut for a leader,the orthodontic approach is not recommended in my humble opinion
 
I wonder why the FSU camera manufacturers, FED, KMZ, didn't make ABLON knock-offs. They made plenty of similar bottom loading cameras.
 
Jim Evidon said:
I recently bought a prime condition Leica IIIG and found trimming the leader to be a little tedious. I looked for an ABLON on Ebay and the sellers are pricing what is a cheap piece of hinged plate at rather expensive prices. I was lucky enough to find a used Japanese ABLON knockoff for very little money.
Just like the ABLON, it has sprocket dimples, a hinge and a built in trim template. Keep looking and maybe you will be lucky too.:)
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Does an ABLON (or knockoff) travel well in a camera bag? Or is it something that is only used at home, and not taken along on trips?
 
webOSUser said:
I wonder why the FSU camera manufacturers, FED, KMZ, didn't make ABLON knock-offs. They made plenty of similar bottom loading cameras.
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Because the pre-loaded film cartridges came with a longer leader, perhaps?

On the other hand, I've never needed an ABLON or similar guide when pre-cutting the leader for my Leicas. It really doesn't need millimeter precision ;)
 
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