kb244
Well-known
I am considering going the route of a Bessa T, I have sold my Canon P and some other stuff in the past so I can tell you least what worked with the P ( since has the light baffles and all that).
My main concern is that least my 35mm will not work. I have a Jupiter-12 35mm f/2.8 lens (later black series) that fit fine on my Canon P without hitting the light baffles at all. I also have a Canon 50mm f/1.8, Jupiter-11 135/4, and Industar-10 50mm f/3.5 collapsible (Though I doubt the Industar will work since it doesnt screw on right on the P, due to thread size, but is fine on my Fed-2A like all the other lens are).
So main question J12 + M adapter + Bessa T = Compatible?
I mainly ask due to the 'front shutter' it speaks of.
My main concern is that least my 35mm will not work. I have a Jupiter-12 35mm f/2.8 lens (later black series) that fit fine on my Canon P without hitting the light baffles at all. I also have a Canon 50mm f/1.8, Jupiter-11 135/4, and Industar-10 50mm f/3.5 collapsible (Though I doubt the Industar will work since it doesnt screw on right on the P, due to thread size, but is fine on my Fed-2A like all the other lens are).
So main question J12 + M adapter + Bessa T = Compatible?
I mainly ask due to the 'front shutter' it speaks of.
I don't think so. The T is basicly the same body as the R2 and has the same area to fit the lens. I believe the J12 is on the no list for the R2. Check the bottom of the Cameraquest R2 page for the list of compatible lenses.
BillBingham2
Registered User
No to the J12 and T.
The I-10 is questionable, you might need to add an O-ring or two to insure it does not go too far in.
B2 (;->
The I-10 is questionable, you might need to add an O-ring or two to insure it does not go too far in.
B2 (;->
kb244
Well-known
BillBingham2 said:No to the J12 and T.
The I-10 is questionable, you might need to add an O-ring or two to insure it does not go too far in.
B2 (;->
Is there a particular reason why?
Considering that the J-12 copy I have fits into a Canon P, which is even less compatible than most other cameras I know (especially with collapsibles, and other things due to the light baffles?)
kb244
Well-known
Cameraquest has had incorrect information before, such as saying the Fed2 had lifesize viewfinders.rover said:I don't think so. The T is basicly the same body as the R2 and has the same area to fit the lens. I believe the J12 is on the no list for the R2. Check the bottom of the Cameraquest R2 page for the list of compatible lenses.
And
seems pretty vague since there are so many.Russian 20 and 35 screw mount lenses protrude too deeply into the camera
So what would be the recomendation, trade up the J-12 for an old elmar 35mm?
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I would agree that Stephen's experience with FSU cameras may not be great, but I don't think we have a better source for info on the Bessas.
The I 10 is an Elmar copy correct? Like the I22 and I50? I owned an I 50 and Elmar at the same time. The collapsible barrel of the I50 is longer than the Elmar and definitely would not fit in a Bessa fully collapsed.
The I 10 is an Elmar copy correct? Like the I22 and I50? I owned an I 50 and Elmar at the same time. The collapsible barrel of the I50 is longer than the Elmar and definitely would not fit in a Bessa fully collapsed.
kb244
Well-known
rover said:I would agree that Stephen's experience with FSU cameras may not be great, but I don't think we have a better source for info on the Bessas.
The I 10 is an Elmar copy correct? Like the I22 and I50? I owned an I 50 and Elmar at the same time. The collapsible barrel of the I50 is longer than the Elmar and definitely would not fit in a Bessa fully collapsed.
Well far as the industar goes, I would strictly use that on my Fed-2A which it works fine in, and use my Canon 50/1.8 elsewhere. But yes its a pre-war Elmar copy, 50mm f/3.5 collapsible.
My thinking if I did get a Bessa T, I'd want least a wide, well I do like the J-12 and has worked on the Fed and the Canon P, but seems like if I got a T I'd least need to either trade up the J-12, or find something inexpensive (to the same likeness) to fit. (Kinda regreting selling the CV 21/4, but it did pay for half the rent, and added a couple accessories I wanted for my hasselblad 500C/M)
The CV 35/2.5 classic, the original lens, is only about $200 (I should have checked the price, it has been a while since I have looked) and well thought of. It is probably as inexpensive as any non J12 35mm lens out there. The Canon 35/2.8 is my favorite, and you can find that with finder probably in the same price range, or less if you are lucky in the marketplace when shopping.
kb244
Well-known
For reference here is the Industar-10 I speak of sittingg on the Fed-2A I have (on the right).
and the Jupiter-12 in question.

and the Jupiter-12 in question.



kb244
Well-known
rover said:The CV 35/2.5 classic, the original lens, is only about $200 (I should have checked the price, it has been a while since I have looked) and well thought of. It is probably as inexpensive as any non J12 35mm lens out there. The Canon 35/2.8 is my favorite, and you can find that with finder probably in the same price range, or less if you are lucky in the marketplace when shopping.
Yea... Moolah I don't have if I get a T. LoL. Though I suppose I could always sell something else... like I dunno Mamiay C3 w/ 65mm, or my Olympus PenFT w/ 38mm and M42 adapter... or something.
clintock
Galleryless Gearhead
I've got a black late j12 just like the one pictured, and a T in hand-
it fits just fine- as long as you keep the focus closer than 4.5 meters. The edge of the rear element runs aground when the focus is turned any more than that, striking the end of a molding in the bottom of the chamber.
The best workaround may be a zorki 2c or fed, since the bessa meter can't work with that lens, so is pretty much functionally converted to a FSU anyway when trying to use that lens, even if it were to go to infinity,- plus you have to use an external finder too. For the price of a L to M adaptor you can score a working FSU with any luck at all.
it fits just fine- as long as you keep the focus closer than 4.5 meters. The edge of the rear element runs aground when the focus is turned any more than that, striking the end of a molding in the bottom of the chamber.
The best workaround may be a zorki 2c or fed, since the bessa meter can't work with that lens, so is pretty much functionally converted to a FSU anyway when trying to use that lens, even if it were to go to infinity,- plus you have to use an external finder too. For the price of a L to M adaptor you can score a working FSU with any luck at all.
kb244
Well-known
ie: Stick with the Fed-2A I already have and not bother getting a T (Unless I just wana use my 50/1.8 and 135mm, til I get an M mout 35mm or other lens).clintock said:I've got a black late j12 just like the one pictured, and a T in hand-
it fits just fine- as long as you keep the focus closer than 4.5 meters. The edge of the rear element runs aground when the focus is turned any more than that, striking the end of a molding in the bottom of the chamber.
The best workaround may be a zorki 2c or fed, since the bessa meter can't work with that lens, so is pretty much functionally converted to a FSU anyway when trying to use that lens, even if it were to go to infinity,- plus you have to use an external finder too. For the price of a L to M adaptor you can score a working FSU with any luck at all.
Anywho, is the increased rangefinder brightness/accuracy (I have means of getting universal viewfinders and such, so not worried bout that), and the built in TTL meter worth it? I can get one under 200$ Why I Was asking.
Cuz I'm thinking, maybe glue the J-12 to my Fed-2A, and get a T, adapt my 50/1.8 and 135, then save up or sell something else down the road to get a M-based wider lens.
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Anupam
Well-known
The T's rangefinder is fantastic - comparable with the very best. No trouble at all focussing fast lenses wide open. I'd get the T - use the J12 for a while without metering and then switch to another lens.
kb244
Well-known
Anupam Basu said:The T's rangefinder is fantastic - comparable with the very best. No trouble at all focussing fast lenses wide open. I'd get the T - use the J12 for a while without metering and then switch to another lens.
I thought you couldn't get the J-12 in closer to infinity without whacking something? Or are you saying the meter can be pushed aside or something? (If it were just a matter of not being able to meter with the J-12, then I would not mind that at all).
Anupam
Well-known
I mounts but doesn't meter - but the first time, mount very carefully with the shutter open on bulb.
clintock
Galleryless Gearhead
You are right, the T can not take the j12 because the rear element goes too far back for infinity focus to happen. I have heard of other variants of the J12 that will mount though. My black j-12 that will only focus to 4.5 meters before hitting the camera floor has a serial number starting with 88.
I'd still get the T(I have 2), because when used with a lens that actually fits, it is great, often faster to use than a combined vf/rf. I thought at first it was kinda odd, having to move my eye from the rf to the vf, but it's no big deal, and the most wonderful thing of all- the meter leds are on the outside! It's the perfect meter indicator, because you can see it out of the side of your eye while looking through either the vf or the rf, but it does not get in your way or blind you like the R display can. And you can always see it, unlike the R3 display, which can disappear if your pupil isn't juuuusst right. For finders I just use a leitz 'imarect', covering 35 to 135. I tried a russian turret type, but I am left eyed, so the turret type jabs into my head as I focus, since it sticks back from the camera pretty far.
I'd still get the T(I have 2), because when used with a lens that actually fits, it is great, often faster to use than a combined vf/rf. I thought at first it was kinda odd, having to move my eye from the rf to the vf, but it's no big deal, and the most wonderful thing of all- the meter leds are on the outside! It's the perfect meter indicator, because you can see it out of the side of your eye while looking through either the vf or the rf, but it does not get in your way or blind you like the R display can. And you can always see it, unlike the R3 display, which can disappear if your pupil isn't juuuusst right. For finders I just use a leitz 'imarect', covering 35 to 135. I tried a russian turret type, but I am left eyed, so the turret type jabs into my head as I focus, since it sticks back from the camera pretty far.
kb244
Well-known
Anupam Basu said:I mounts but doesn't meter - but the first time, mount very carefully with the shutter open on bulb.
I guess if I plan on getting a T anyways, can't hurt to try with it on bulb as you say. Maybe... just maybe I'll get lucky and have one that doesn't have a rear element quite touching the area that the front curtain passes.
Otherwise I'll be looking to sell my Olympus PenFT (With hotshoe mod), 38/1.8, M42 adapter and Pentax SMC 50/1.4 to see about getting a good M lens to go on the wider end... maybe I'll see if I can get enough for a 15/4.5 Heliar, or go the portrait end and get a 75/2.5 (though the 50/1.5, or 40/1.4 looks nice, however already got a Canon 50/1.8 I'm happy with)
BillBingham2
Registered User
All of the Bessas use a double curtain shutter. The front curtain is required to make it light tight, but it adds some depth, that is where the J-12 gets into trouble. There are rumored to be some J-12s that will work, but I have no proof one way or another. Not only will the meter not work because of the depth of the lens, the shutter may jam. A very expensive repair for a cheap (but great) lens. The Canon P, Leica IIIa and lots of other single curtain cameras work fine with the J-12.
There are other 35mm lenses out there (e.g. Komura) that are not that expensive, but harder to find.
Beware about trying to save money in this way, it may cost you a lens (the rear element may be scratched) and a camera (the shutter may be FUBARed).
B2 (;->
There are other 35mm lenses out there (e.g. Komura) that are not that expensive, but harder to find.
Beware about trying to save money in this way, it may cost you a lens (the rear element may be scratched) and a camera (the shutter may be FUBARed).
B2 (;->
Anupam
Well-known
I have had a J12 that worked without problems on the Bessa R and T. But it appears, others actually hit the shutter curtains. So I would reiterate my advice of mounting it for the first time VERY carefully. You might get lucky and find that your sample works fine without hitting anything (although, it'll almost surely block the meter).
-A
-A
oscroft
Veteran
My J-12 will definitely hit the front shutter curtains on a Bessa body.
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