Best film ISO for use with an M-body

Pirate

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This is not about Film, it's about the best film Speed to use with a Leica M-body.

My M3 and M2 only go to 1/1000s and I've been using 25 ISO film for a while and really enjoying it. Lately I've been using 400 ISO film and I'm finding that I really like it -- all this in relation to the speeds of the body, slow lenses, ...etc.

So, my question is, what ISO's have you guys been using that really fit the camera well? I mean, obviously, using 1600 ISO in an M-body with 1/1000s shutter on a sunny day requires an ND filter. Not asking anything about the film other than the ISO. Is there a best-fit ISO?

Does any of that make sense?
 
I've shot Tri-X at ISO 200 for years as a matter of exposing for shadows. It's served me quite well for daytime use, however I do tend to reach for a tripod as the sun goes down.

Seeing many fine images in the galleries here that people have shot hand-held pushing 400-speed films to 1600 has given me reason to consider this combination for night-time use.

It may be that there is simply is no one best rating, only what's best for specific uses.
 
ISO 400 chromogenic film (Kodak's is best IMO). Why? Because you can shoot at ISO 200 where possible for best results but, when push comes to shove, you can rate it at ISO 400 or even higher on the same roll. It's also easiest to have processed.
 
What lenses do you use? My fastest (and only) lens at the moment for my M4 is a 50/2 'cron, and I find that I can shoot in most situations with Tri-X at 400, but if I know that I'm going to shoot an entire roll in low light, I push Tri-X to 1600
 
In my view most rangefinder lenses show their best character opened up. If you are a daytime shooter like I am you really need to use slow films to get to f/4 or so. I normally use ASA 100 film and a 2-stop ND filter but I think all things considered the best choice for me would be to shoot Tri-X @ 200 and use 2-stop ND filter on daylight situations and when inside just remove the filter and keep on shooting.
 
I have pretty much settled on using 400ISO to 250ISO with my M Leicas. That ISO range is still OK in daylight without ND filter and at night, a f/1.4 or f/1.0 lens can substitute missing sensitivity if needed.

When using a screwmount Leica, I prefer 1600ISO film because all of my lenses - except for the Summarit - are f/3.5 max.
 
400 almost all the time, it still seems remarkable to me how good fast film is these days, plus I can stop down and get rid of more of that pesky bokeh stuff
 
I would truly say there is no ISO to fit. It depends so much on circumstance, time of day, location, and look you wish to achieve. It's almost like saying "what gear suits a Toyota Camry?", sure you'll need to use them all.

In Hawaii, I was shooting Velvia 50, at box speed at f/8, 1000th of a second. Here in London however, sometime even 400 ISO is not enough on these drab winter days. Particularly as I don't shoot wide open much. Shooting at night is a different ball game of course.

I'd say, if you must pick one speed, go with 400, though.
 
Hmmm...
My assumption is merely teorethical... I'd say best film for M's is 160 iso if you use colour and 400 (250/280 iso) if you use b/w.
 
Tri-X at box speed, usually. During the day, I'm generally going to be using a red/yellow filter anyway, so it's not too fast after that. My CV 35/1.2 makes 400 plenty fast enough for most low-light situations.
 
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No, no ISO is better in general.

ISO100, 50 and 25 are too low for low light or for prefocusing on lowish scenes, and for ISO400 and above you need NDs unless you don't want to shoot wider that f/5.6 or avoid sun.

I use 400 for most of my shooting because I like grain, and carry yellow and ND8 filters.

Cheers,

Juan
 
It depends on what and when you are intending to shoot. If you can get through a roll or two in a single sitting outside and good light, something a bit slower might work well. If it's always at night or indoors, that wouldn't work out so well.

I find that most of my film usage in my M's is 400 speed film. It works in full daylight if needed and also functions in relatively dim situations too. I do shoot some slower and faster film, but 90% of it is ISO 400.
 
Right now, 400 TriX shot at 800 and developed in Xtol 1:1. It's fast enoughfor most available dark shots and will still work on snow scenes in bright sunlight. I've found I get good skies and the details seem sharper than at 400. It will scan just find and makes wonderful wet prints. That's subject to change, however.
 
I generally shoot street work with my Leica M. So that means usually preset aperture and focus. For this I like F8 and AE. Since this is the way I shoot, I stick with ISO 400 film as it keeps the SS up in dimmer light, and the 1/1000 can usually handle the brighter days.

If I know it's going to be really sunny, I will go down to ISO 200 or 100 film. If I know it's at night, I will go up with ISO 800 film and break out my faster lenses.

While it is greatly dependent on expected shooting conditions, ISO 400 is what I break out if I am not entirely certain as to what to expect.

JCA
 
I use iso 400 but sometimes it is useful to use 1600(or push 400@1600) and on sunny day you can have f16 or 22 and DOF from 1m to infinity and it is easy to focus. :D
 
400 is very practical, covers many situations. But I shoot everything, efke 25 or 50, Ektar 100, trix pulled to 200 when it's sunny, or pushed to 1600 if it's dark. I pick film for a look as much as for speed, within what's practical of course.
 
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