Building a 4x5 kit; what am I forgetting?

[rbiemer]

For HP-5 I use dilution B. No need to try anything else.

OK. It seemed like the best choice to me but I haven't processed anything in about two decades and have never done sheet film so I don't have the experience to judge, yet.

Thank you!

Rob

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

No results to share as yet, real life got in the way yesterday.

JoeV, thanks for the suggestion about a shirt.

I am a bit stumped one one thing: which dilution to use for the HC-110?

I think that the "B" dilution is where I'm going to start. From my reading, that seems to be a good middle of the road choice.
I'm metering the HP5+ at 400, my shutter is likely to be a bit slower than its marked speeds so, some overexposure there. So this ought to give me something to start with and then I can adjust as necessary.

Rob

I have admittedly probably only developed about a dozen rolls or so in HC-110, but generally I have used the unofficial Dilution "H" detailed on the following web page (50% of Dilution B concentrate and 200% development time), and I have to say it's worked pretty well, with no issues from the reduced amount of concentrate that I have noticed. The economy is fantastic. HC-110 and HP5+ seem to go together very well, too. More here:
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

 

[rbiemer]

SUCCESS!--well, images, at least...

SUCCESS!--well, images, at least...

😀
Had the time to process the film I shot this past Sunday, my first outing with LF.
And, I've got negatives! They are drying now so I won't be able to really evaluate them just yet but woo hoo this has been a fun 1/2 hour or so.

As I thought, I did screw up one frame by not closing the shutter before loading the film holder into the camera.

Measuring was a bit tedious but I went slow and stuck with the recipes I'm using.

Set up a water bath and temps were within the margin of error for my thermometer.

My faucets are tight enough to maintain a temp. with in a degree or so once I've adjusted them carefully so that was good.

I was a bit worried about my agitation--since January this year, my fine motor control is not what it once was--but I think it's going to be ok.

IMAGES lrg by rbiemer, on Flickr

Now to see if I can make some good photographs!

😀
Rob

 

[AlTheKiller]

Glad to see you got some results!

 

[Fixcinater]

Kudos for setting up a water bath but be aware you may not need to be that tight on water temp.

I've run through a bunch of D76 1:1 and a large bottle of HC110 at 1:100 ratio and have not used a temp regulation bath, no issues. Black and white negative film is pretty darn forgiving unless you use a densitometer.

If you're just looking to get good scans/prints, you can adjust things to taste later. This is not to say I encourage sloppy darkroom work, but rather to say if you've got an old shutter your exposures aren't that precise anyway, so trying to get the exact same negs each time is nigh on impossible or necessary for quality end results.

 

[x-ray]

Kudos for setting up a water bath but be aware you may not need to be that tight on water temp.

I've run through a bunch of D76 1:1 and a large bottle of HC110 at 1:100 ratio and have not used a temp regulation bath, no issues. Black and white negative film is pretty darn forgiving unless you use a densitometer.

If you're just looking to get good scans/prints, you can adjust things to taste later. This is not to say I encourage sloppy darkroom work, but rather to say if you've got an old shutter your exposures aren't that precise anyway, so trying to get the exact same negs each time is nigh on impossible or necessary for quality end results.

This is bad advice especially for someone just getting into something new.

You have no idea how accurate his shutter is or meter or anything else for that matter. He's not familiar with HC110 either and should stick to recommended procedures until he's comfortable. He's doing the right thing by keeping his process tight, don't encourage bad practices.

By the way, variations in exposure determine shadow detail where as variations in development determine contrast.

Please do not encourage deviation from manufacturers recommendations and sloppy practices to beginners. There's enough bad information on the internet without adding to it.

 

[rbiemer]

If you're just looking to get good scans/prints, you can adjust things to taste later. This is not to say I encourage sloppy darkroom work, but rather to say if you've got an old shutter your exposures aren't that precise anyway, so trying to get the exact same negs each time is nigh on impossible or necessary for quality end results.

Except that I am trying to keep my process as consistent as I can because I have that old shutter: I need to see what it is actually doing and if my development is sloppy, I will not be able to tell whether poor negs are caused by that shutter or by my inconsistent processing.

There are so many variables from subject choice to film choice, through chemistry and method choice, that, if I am going to be able to have any hope of good results--prints on a wall--I must be able to identify where any failures or short comings are. So, by being as consistent as possible with the development, I will be able to not worry about that part of it.
The camera is new, the lens and shutter are new to me, HP5+ is a film I have not used much of in any format, and developing is something I haven't done my self in a very long time. If I am to get good at this, I need somewhere to stand, as it were, that I know that the choices I'm making with f stops and speeds are working or not.

My being kind of strict with my development is, in fact, a way to simplify this for me.

Rob