Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Hi Paul. All things are equal apart from the development itself. To start with the other stuff first. I use 1min water stop bath, fix 5min and regular wash. If you mix things every time you develop a film it will add considerably to your cycle. I don´t do this. I pre-dilute the three main ingredients triple strength and measure out 3 equal measures when developing. By doing this I need not wait for the powders to dissolve, settle and cool down. If I did it would add another 15-20 minutes. The soda generates heat, and the coffee needs hot water to dissolve properly. I avoid all this. In doing so preparations are equal to regular developer. So the only prolonging event is the development itself. Agitated development is in the region of 15 minutes. A long answer, but the short answer is 8 or 9 minutes!
How long do the dissolved mixes keep? Well I´ve got compressible bottles with sodium carbonate and ascorbic acid that are in their 8th week, and two films developed a couple of days ago, you´ve seen scans from one. The coffee mix however will keep anything up to 5-6 weeks if kept cold and airtight. It works still, but I suspect mould in the mix is not desirable.
Regarding potassium bromide as a restrainer. Yes, with faster films you will need it to inhibit haze. However TMAX100 needs it not. I use a very small amount out of habit, and because my development times are calculated with PB in mind (it slows development a tad). But you need not. TMAX 400 however would need something in the region of 1.5g/l developer.
Feel free to ask more. And follow my blog link, its mostly Caffenol related.
How long do the dissolved mixes keep? Well I´ve got compressible bottles with sodium carbonate and ascorbic acid that are in their 8th week, and two films developed a couple of days ago, you´ve seen scans from one. The coffee mix however will keep anything up to 5-6 weeks if kept cold and airtight. It works still, but I suspect mould in the mix is not desirable.
Regarding potassium bromide as a restrainer. Yes, with faster films you will need it to inhibit haze. However TMAX100 needs it not. I use a very small amount out of habit, and because my development times are calculated with PB in mind (it slows development a tad). But you need not. TMAX 400 however would need something in the region of 1.5g/l developer.
Feel free to ask more. And follow my blog link, its mostly Caffenol related.
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Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Since the outset I´ve been using Caffenol mixed from solutions I diluted two months ago. There have been a lot of discussions as to whether or not the different components will keep or not. In general its been advised against, but I find it has its benefits. You mix up large quantities to begin with, making it easier to measure up the right amounts. When developing you need not mix up the powders and wait for them to settle, and the temperatures sink to 68F. I developed two rolls the other evening, one with 8 week old pre-diluted chemicals exclusively, and the second with a new coffee solution, all else equal. I´m assuming that the coffee is the part most vulnerable to deterioration.
First roll, last frame. All old chemicals:
Second roll, second frame. New coffee mix, all else equal:
To be quite honest, I can´t see that the new coffee batch has made any difference. Both came out as expected, and very well too. Film was as usual TMAX100, 120.
First roll, last frame. All old chemicals:

Second roll, second frame. New coffee mix, all else equal:

To be quite honest, I can´t see that the new coffee batch has made any difference. Both came out as expected, and very well too. Film was as usual TMAX100, 120.
paulfish4570
Veteran
Sharpness is just plain sick with this kit ...
Your work inspires me, Ezzie.
That kind of sharpness for abstracts is the only reason I am thinking of upgrading from a Yashica A to what? A Kowa? Bronica?
But I have to have eye level viewing. The waist level view is extremely difficult for me to coordinate with the reversed view, tilting lines due to changing hand posture, outside-the-viewfinder awareness, and such.
That kind of sharpness for abstracts is the only reason I am thinking of upgrading from a Yashica A to what? A Kowa? Bronica?
But I have to have eye level viewing. The waist level view is extremely difficult for me to coordinate with the reversed view, tilting lines due to changing hand posture, outside-the-viewfinder awareness, and such.
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maddoc
... likes film again.
Very inspiring thread and excellent photos !
I have to try Tmax100 in 4x5 with this ....
dfoo
Well-known
Anyone have a good source of potassium bromide in Canada?
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Sharpness is just plain sick with this kit ...Your work inspires me, Ezzie.
That kind of sharpness for abstracts is the only reason I am thinking of upgrading from a Yashica A to what? A Kowa? Bronica?
But I have to have eye level viewing. The waist level view is extremely difficult for me to coordinate with the reversed view, tilting lines due to changing hand posture, outside-the-viewfinder awareness, and such.
Thanks Paul. But you have to remember this is MF (OK, so´s your 124) and I´ve used f11 to f16 for most of these shots. It should be sharp(ish). I use Caffenol-C-H or C-M which is OK with respect to grain, but I´ve heard that Caffenol-C-L stand developer is even better. TMAX evidently takes very well to Caffenol.
Finder? No problem there Paul. Most, if not all, the 6x6 SLR´s have interchangeable finders, WLF, prism 45 and 90 degrees, with and without TTL metering etc. Most also have different focusing screens too. My WLF has a magnifier, where the occular can be exchanged. So you have a plethora of opportunities to fit you style.
EDIT: Me ending up with this combination. Paul, its just a stroke of luck, chance, whatever you call it. I started off with TMAX when home developing because its the film I´d used the most previously. I ended buying the Kowa because its a bit different, I like that. Rather than a Bronica or Mamiya in the same price bracket. I ended up with Caffenol, also because its different, and its home brew, DIY, whatever - I like that too. Reminds me, I need to take my DIY 6x12 camera out for a spin, and process the results in Caffenol. See how that does.
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meven
Well-known
Here are some shots from my first roll developed in Caffenol. I hope you don't mind me posting in your thread.
Film: Ilford Pan 100 @ ISO100
Caffenol Formula for 500mL solution:
* 6tsp Washing Soda
* 2tsp Vitamin C
* 5tsp Coffee
* 1/4tsp Kbr
15 minutes @ 25°C. Very gentle agitation every 2 minutes
I am loving the results!
Film: Ilford Pan 100 @ ISO100
Caffenol Formula for 500mL solution:
* 6tsp Washing Soda
* 2tsp Vitamin C
* 5tsp Coffee
* 1/4tsp Kbr
15 minutes @ 25°C. Very gentle agitation every 2 minutes
I am loving the results!
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
I don't mind at all. Please do post anything related to Caffenol. I must say your results are stunning. They exhibit what I like about Caffenol, fine grain, well controlled highlights, good shadow detail, and lovely smooth midtones. Good job!
Your recipe seems to be rather similar to the one I'm using. I'm now going to test it on Acros 100, but it would seem I have to add Pan 100 to the to do list.
Your recipe seems to be rather similar to the one I'm using. I'm now going to test it on Acros 100, but it would seem I have to add Pan 100 to the to do list.
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
On the recommendation of Reinhold of Caffenol.blogspot.com I´ve now dispensed with Potassium Bromide as a restrainer for TMAX100. It doesn´t need it. My findings confirm this:
0.2g/l PB:
No PB at all:
0.2g/l PB:



No PB at all:




f16sunshine
Moderator
There are some very stunning scenes here! The 3rd is particularly Wow!
I'm inspired as well to get the kit together to try Caffenol.
I wonder have you tried Rollei Retro 80s yet?
I'm inspired as well to get the kit together to try Caffenol.
I wonder have you tried Rollei Retro 80s yet?
On the recommendation of Reinhold of Caffenol.blogspot.com I´ve now dispensed with Potassium Bromide as a restrainer for TMAX100. It doesn´t need it. My findings confirm this:
0.2g/l PB:
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No PB at all:
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Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Hi Andy
I've only tried TMX and TMY-2 so far. My next film will be Acros 100. Go to Http://Caffenol.blogspot.com They've done some tests on Rollei retro films if I remember correctly
I've only tried TMX and TMY-2 so far. My next film will be Acros 100. Go to Http://Caffenol.blogspot.com They've done some tests on Rollei retro films if I remember correctly
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Testing Acros 100 will take longer than first estimated. My Mac went belly up, the leaf shutter on my favourite lens decided to pack it in (ruining a few films). I have been able to scan a couple of negatives though, and post-processed one in Gimp on my Asus Eee 7" 702!
Acros 100, EI 100, Caffenol-C-M, 12min @ 20C

Skoger gamle kirke by Eirik0304, on Flickr
And my first impressions are none other than very impressed! The grain is different to TMX and more pleasant to my eye. On 120 film it makes for a very smooth, yet sharp negative. The midtones are even better than TMX. I've 7 more rolls in the fridge, I must get hold of more. This film is stunning.
Acros 100, EI 100, Caffenol-C-M, 12min @ 20C

Skoger gamle kirke by Eirik0304, on Flickr
And my first impressions are none other than very impressed! The grain is different to TMX and more pleasant to my eye. On 120 film it makes for a very smooth, yet sharp negative. The midtones are even better than TMX. I've 7 more rolls in the fridge, I must get hold of more. This film is stunning.
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
More Acros. This time re-used soup. Once first roll was out of the tank, another put into the same mixture. Added one minute to my normal development times, and one teaspoon of instant coffee. Forgive me if you´ve seen these in another thread already.
A slight moon and thick fog makes for interesting lighting. 2 minutes metered and exposed:

Moonlight: The pier by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Same conditions, but lesser moon. Pure guesstimate metering, 20 minute exposure.

Moonlight: Abandoned house by Eirik0304, on Flickr
No moon, 2 minute exposure:

Darkness at the edge of town: House by the sea by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Midday fog:

Fog forrest by Eirik0304, on Flickr
A slight moon and thick fog makes for interesting lighting. 2 minutes metered and exposed:

Moonlight: The pier by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Same conditions, but lesser moon. Pure guesstimate metering, 20 minute exposure.

Moonlight: Abandoned house by Eirik0304, on Flickr
No moon, 2 minute exposure:

Darkness at the edge of town: House by the sea by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Midday fog:

Fog forrest by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Now up to three rolls of 120 in the same soup, and it works. Developed in succession, adding 1 minute to the timing for each film.
Flexaret Va, TMAX100 in Caffenol-C-M @16+1min. Epson scan @2400dpi, 16b/greyscale
+1 minute development as this was the second roll through the same batch of Caffenol.

Church door knocker by Eirik0304, on Flickr

A hint of Spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Zeiss Ikonta 523/16 w/Novar.
Acros 100 EI 100, Caffenol-C-M 12+2min @ 20C
+2 minutes development as this was the third roll through the same batch of Caffenol.

Totten II by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Dereliction: Old mooring by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Flexaret Va, TMAX100 in Caffenol-C-M @16+1min. Epson scan @2400dpi, 16b/greyscale
+1 minute development as this was the second roll through the same batch of Caffenol.

Church door knocker by Eirik0304, on Flickr

A hint of Spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Zeiss Ikonta 523/16 w/Novar.
Acros 100 EI 100, Caffenol-C-M 12+2min @ 20C
+2 minutes development as this was the third roll through the same batch of Caffenol.

Totten II by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Dereliction: Old mooring by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
These were developed in juice where each of the components were diluted 4 months ago. When mixing prior to developing, the developer didn´t attain the right colour, the right smell (normally awful), but it worked none the less.

River in spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Kicking Horse, BC by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Headless soldier by Eirik0304, on Flickr

River in spring by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Kicking Horse, BC by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Headless soldier by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Cheap Chinese emulsion? No problem. Read here for more info: GP3 in Caffenol-C-M (RS)

Hard Rock Cafe by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Grand Hotel by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Hard Rock Cafe by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Grand Hotel by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
John Robertson
Well-known
Hi guys ! I need a help. I mean HELP ! I live in Toronto, Canada, a place devoid of washing soda I guess, cause I can't get it. Nowhere. Also no pharmacist is interested in getting for me a pure vitamin C, for them I am nuts. And I just want to try caffenol by myself. Love the tonality. Please, someone help me.
Sold in harware stores here for cleaning drains.!
John Robertson
Well-known
A developer can also be made from Paracetamol tablets!!!
http://shadecamerahack.blogspot.com/2010/02/build-my-parodinal-and-my-own-fixer-for.html
http://shadecamerahack.blogspot.com/2010/02/build-my-parodinal-and-my-own-fixer-for.html
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Stand or semi stand in Caffenol? Oh yeah. In fact it works very well indeed. Rather like Rodinal the compensational characteristics of Caffenol are even more distinct than with regular agitated development.
I have not done much 135 film since I started using film again. Used to large 6x6 to 6x17 negatives and the lovely results these may give you, I thought I'd try to give the smaller format a fighting chance to prove itself against its bigger brother. For that I brought out low pH Caffenol, the C-L version championed by Reinhold over on the Caffenol.blogspot.com
C-C-L mixed by the book:
16g/l Sodium carbonate
10g/l Ascorbic acid
40g/l Instant coffee
1.25g/l Potassium Bromide
5 minute tempered presoak. Semi stand @20C for 70 minutes. 12 inversions initially, 2 inversions at the 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 minute markers. Let stand for the duration.
Pictures taken from a TMX test roll through the Royal 35-M, EI100 - no filter.

Henrik the crane by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Depot by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Another film I thought might benefit from stand development is the now defunct Rollei Retro 400 (this time in 120). Its reputedly rather grainy, so I thought I´d see what C-C-L could do. EI400
Same recipe and method, but this time for only 58 minutes @ 21C

L&M: Smoking Kills! by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Corn Silo by Eirik0304, on Flickr
I have not done much 135 film since I started using film again. Used to large 6x6 to 6x17 negatives and the lovely results these may give you, I thought I'd try to give the smaller format a fighting chance to prove itself against its bigger brother. For that I brought out low pH Caffenol, the C-L version championed by Reinhold over on the Caffenol.blogspot.com
C-C-L mixed by the book:
16g/l Sodium carbonate
10g/l Ascorbic acid
40g/l Instant coffee
1.25g/l Potassium Bromide
5 minute tempered presoak. Semi stand @20C for 70 minutes. 12 inversions initially, 2 inversions at the 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 minute markers. Let stand for the duration.
Pictures taken from a TMX test roll through the Royal 35-M, EI100 - no filter.

Henrik the crane by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Depot by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Another film I thought might benefit from stand development is the now defunct Rollei Retro 400 (this time in 120). Its reputedly rather grainy, so I thought I´d see what C-C-L could do. EI400
Same recipe and method, but this time for only 58 minutes @ 21C

L&M: Smoking Kills! by Eirik0304, on Flickr

Corn Silo by Eirik0304, on Flickr
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