Coding lenses for M8

[miklosphoto]

I have just got my 35mm Summicron back from John Milich with the recesses cut on my lens.
Anyone knows what is the best way to paint the coding? Do I need to paint only the blacks or also the whites?
What kind of tool do you guys use? Will a simple sharpie do?
thanks
Miklos

 

[dof]

Matte black enamel model paint works well. Small jars can be had at most hobby supply stores. You need only colour the black pits, as the code sensor will read a silver lens mount as "white". Some mounts however are brass-coloured - I've no experience with how they're read.

Apply the paint using the tip of an Exacto knife or sharp toothpick. Clean the lens flange with rubbing alcohol first and be sure to let everything dry overnight before mounting the lens to the body.

Alternatively, Tim Issacs recommends the Zebra MO-120-MC-BK double-ended pen for use with the M-coder.

Good luck and don't be discouraged if things don't work the first time. Sometimes the black colouring needs to be applied around the edges of the pit, but start by drawing "inside the lines".

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

See here for all the codes:

http://www.digital-leica.com/lens_codes/

 

[f16sunshine]

Timely subject for me.
I've just received a uv/ir filter for my biogon 2/35.
So far I've not tried it on the M8.
Will it work "well" uncoded.
My 50's seem fine what problems might I find with a 35?
If it's just a touch of vignetting wide open I can live with it.
Thanks for replies.

~Andy

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Timely subject for me.
I've just received a uv/ir filter for my biogon 2/35.
So far I've not tried it on the M8.
Will it work "well" uncoded.
My 50's seem fine what problems might I find with a 35?
If it's just a touch of vignetting wide open I can live with it.
Thanks for replies.

~Andy

No vignetting at all. I always have the filter on my 35 and have lens detection and filter <on>. No coding needed.

 

[f16sunshine]

Sweet!
Thanks for the input. So that brings a question. When does the "sensor" vignetting for lack of a better term really come into play. It sounds like 35mm and longer FL's are no problem. Does a 28mm start to show effects of the sharp light fall. Is this issue completely over-hyped for the M8??
I use my 15mm on the RD-1 and it shows some dark corners. The 21mm does not or not much (on that camera). I will do my own research as well soon with the M8. Until then the experiences of members is appreciated.

~Andy

 

[ampguy]

not sure

not sure

Some folks think coding helps ultrawides (< 24 or so), when used in conjunction with the filter. Something about fixing cyan corners.

My widest is 28, and have seen no differences with any of the 3 settings for lens types when coded or not coded with M-Hexanon, and Canon 28.

Sweet!
Thanks for the input. So that brings a question. When does the "sensor" vignetting for lack of a better term really come into play. It sounds like 35mm and longer FL's are no problem. Does a 28mm start to show effects of the sharp light fall. Is this issue completely over-hyped for the M8??
I use my 15mm on the RD-1 and it shows some dark corners. The 21mm does not or not much (on that camera). I will do my own research as well soon with the M8. Until then the experiences of members is appreciated.

~Andy

 

[jaapv]

Some people think...😀 It's an established fact. See Sean Reid's website.

 

[ampguy]

Hi Jaapv

Hi Jaapv

Which article? I'm a subscriber to Sean's articles. I must have missed the "facts" here... Thanks.

Some people think...😀 It's an established fact. See Sean Reid's website.

 

[jaapv]

There are a number of articles on that site that show comparative images with and without filter etc. There is a specific article on IR problems and the consequences as wel iirc.

 

[Ben Z]

I have just got my 35mm Summicron back from John Milich with the recesses cut on my lens.
Anyone knows what is the best way to paint the coding? Do I need to paint only the blacks or also the whites?

You only need to paint the black codes if you're sharpie-marking a flat flange, or if you're milling only the recesses for the black codes. However if all six recesses are milled, then I think you may find you may need to paint the white ones, if the code reader mistakes the empty recesses (now exposed brass rather than the chrome plating) for black.

I painted my black codes (milled recesses) with gloss black touchup paint leftover from a BMW I no longer have, and it works fine.

 

[miklosphoto]

Thanks for all the input. Well, I painted only the blacks with the permanent black marker and the lens is not recognized by M8. I don't know what is wrong??? The blank recesses are chrome just like the entire flange.

 

[ampguy]

Hi Jaapv

Hi Jaapv

I wish you could point me to a specific article.

If you are a subscriber, read up on the 50mm RF Lenses - II

There are examples showing potential over-correction of light fall-off, for the given situation Sean used. Basically, the correction with coding and lens detection on, overcorrected for the corners, with Sean mentioning that one may not want to use lens detection in this scenario.

What is happening, IMHO, is that the g-stop (guessed f-stop) by Leica was not correct in the particular scenario Sean showed, where other times it is accurate, as probably was when Leica setup that particular version of firmware revision.

Here's a fact: Leica's len's coding method cannot detect the f-stop with accuracy, therefore by coding, and using lens detection with uv/ir filter on, and setting on, you may get cyan drift correction and/or light falloff correction that is not appropriate for the lighting situation you are shooting for.

There are a number of articles on that site that show comparative images with and without filter etc. There is a specific article on IR problems and the consequences as wel iirc.

 

[jaapv]

I can't - it is a flash site - hard to link to.

 

[Ben Z]

Thanks for all the input. Well, I painted only the blacks with the permanent black marker and the lens is not recognized by M8. I don't know what is wrong??? The blank recesses are chrome just like the entire flange.

The code reader reads chrome-plated screw heads on some un-coded older lenses as if it was a black code, so it must have to do with the depth/distance. Try painting the white recesses white and see if that helps. In any case I'd also paint the recesses with black paint, because it's possible also that the marker isn't completely masking the reflectivity of the flange, and also that in time it might fade.

 

[jaapv]

Some markers paint quite shiny too, which does not work. Use those little tins of matte model paint (Humbrol for instance)