back alley
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the 16/23/56…
i also thought that i would not use most of the dials on the camera top and figured they would eventually become a source of frustration if i moved them without wanting to.
cool dilemma!
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the 16/23/56…
i also thought that i would not use most of the dials on the camera top and figured they would eventually become a source of frustration if i moved them without wanting to.
macjim
Well-known
It's too early for me to comment on how easy or not the buttons/dials as I've only used it for a day but I hope it proves not to be a problem. Time will tell.
Flickr: thesrpspaintshop
back alley
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for me it's more that i wouldn't use them much at all…as it is, with the xe1 i am constantly checkng that i have not moved the ev dial.
macjim
Well-known
I had a wee look at the camera dials last night and I do think they are much tighter than of old. The +/- is pretty stiff, as is the other two dials. The movie button seem less prone to being selected as it's pretty flush and needs a good press, but I have set it to do nothing at all so that it can't be used accidentally: on my X100s (now sold along with my X-Pro 1) I had it set for the ND filter which I did use. I took the camera out yesterday to try it out on the way home and found my first shot focused on the wrong subject. It showed the focus on what I wanted but when I saw the image, it had shifted to two workers in the background but, it actually worked as an image (street photography). I will obviously need to get it set up in the way that I want it to work (couldn't at first find how to switch on the four thirds grid) and I'm going to experiment with manual focusing using the red focus peeking for my street work as I can see it better in the EVF. I haven't used the X-E1/2 so I can't comment on the controls but I would imagine they were as bad as my old X-Pro 1. PS. I think I've found my really long term camera to use and not replace. It's very much like being back with my OM-1n and 50 mm lens and even if I do manage to get an X-T1, it will stay with me.
Flickr: srpspaintshop
macjim
Well-known
Hello again, you said you would have made up you mind about what to buy by Friday, the one just past I presume, so I'll be interested to hear what you finally bought. I did think about suggesting an X100s, yes s, as they are still available and at a good price too plus the TCL-100 is a good buy for it too as I used one to give me the 50 mm equivalent I wanted. Yes, it too has slightly loose dials but it would have bee a nice buy for you: I loved that camera.
FrankS
Registered User
In post #17, Joe tells us he bought an XE2.
willie_901
Veteran
Don't despair. It is possible to configure the camera to minimize/avoid AF jumping to unintended higher contrast objects.
There are 77 individual contrast-detection focus regions. There are 15 phase-detection AF regions, The former might automatically select regions of higher contrast (which is what happened to you). The latter should not.
So the camera can be used to avoid CD AF making unwelcome decisions. With practice the AF preview can be invoked quickly to confirm the focus region. These comments don't even include your options to invoke PD AF.
It's annoying to set thing up the first time and practice. This certainly was the case for me when I started to use the Nikon D200 and the D300 (different AF). It was also true for the three Fujifilm X cameras I've owned/own. The recent X-T1 firmware update was a significant improvement and it also required an adjustment period.
As far as low light goes, the X-T1 and X-T10 are more sensitive than the other bodies (EV 0.5 instead of EV 2.5). However it is true that their competition (particularly DSLRs) have superior PD AF performance in very low light.
The X-T10 AF is nothing like the XE-1/2, the X100/S/T, X-Pro-1 or even the X-T1 before its recent firmware update.
