Nokton48
Veteran

Most of the waterfall shots in this thread were made with this Norma setup.

Rapid View Camera Photography due to Sinar Norma Sliding Roll Back and 120 film.
Nokton48
Veteran


Yesterday I made this Kodak Blotter Roll Dryer, yet another Peterson's Photographic home darkroom project. I have some old fibre paper I want to start testing. This is a quick way to dry it. Right now the dryer has a 100W heating element, which is interchangeable. Also I want to add a switch and a timer for this unit. Adding some filter material is a good idea. Gentle dry heat is the result so far.
Nokton48
Veteran


Three unfinished projects I have been working on here and there, as I have time. Two Omega Omegalite 4x5 heads (both trashed) combined into one perfectly working unit. First unit had a bad transformer, bought the second unit for parts. Attaching some adhesive foam rubber to the bottom, and it's finished
Second project is Petersons Photographic Rapid Film Washer. All plastic pipe is cut and tightly fitting just needs glued. Shown with stainless steel rod I bent to hold eight 120 steel reels (my biggest Nikor tank).
Third project is Petersons Photographic 16x20 Matte Fibre Print Dryer, all wiring completed except for the power cord. Four 640W wired in series pulls 600 watts, so I will keep the power cord short in length
Anybody know where I can get 16x20 photographic blotters, with muslin one sided? Been buying the plain blotters they sell cheaply at freestyle.
After the first of the year, I have a really big printing project coming up. Material from twenty five years ago.
Nokton48
Veteran

I have three enlargers with Diffusion Heads I like to use. I just reworked these old Omega Under The Lens Filter Holders. To split print on VC paper I simply put the Wratten 47B or 58 Gel Filters on top of the bolt heads. Simple and easy, and it works with my enlargers.
Now I just need to spray these silver ones with Krylon Flat Black paint and I am ready to go. I have been using graded #2 RC paper to print my negs, (I think of these almost like enlarged 4X contact prints, no embellishing at all) when I go back I will split print the best ones onto fiber paper.
Nokton48
Veteran





It's been a good year. I have gone from a primarily storage, and film loading room, to a real darkroom! Work will continue after the first of the year, as funds free up.
More heat, plumbing, more electrical, and work tables are future projects.
Nokton48
Veteran

I saw that Tim Layton built this unit, so followed his lead and I had fun building this. The ulility light was $10 at Home Depot, I removed the clamp mechanism. The box is made from foam core board and masking tape. I put my Multigrade 6x6" #00 & #5 variable contrast filters in cardboard frames, so I can change the filtering out by touch, under the dark safelights.
I tried a 7.5W bulb, amazingly way too bright for RC VC paper. So I ordered ROSCO ND sheets from B&H, in .6 and .3 densities. About a thirty second or longer time is what I am looking for, so I have time for burning and dodging.
The four suspension wires keeps the box level and keeps it from swinging around in the dark.

First attempt at VC contact printing with the new unit.
Nokton48
Veteran

For use in my 8x10 Sinar Norma, I have some ERA 100, some very old HP5 (not+!) and a fresh box of Ilford Commercial Ortho+ I just got from B&H. $5.16 per 8x10 on the Commercial Ortho+.
I want to try XRAY film, so I bought 100 sheets of Fuji 8x10 HRU on Ebay. I just cut down this Kodak 8x10 Film Hanger, so now it fits in a Patterson 8x10 tray. Has anybody here ever tried this method?
I have a gallon of Acufine mixed up (and replenisher) and I be giving this a go soon.
40 cents for an 8x10, 20 cents for a 5x7, 10 cents for a 4x5 sheet. Now I will be able to play under the safelights.
Dan
Let's Sway
Way back, it was hand processing a stack of 6 sheets of 4x5. With your single sheet rig, the only thing to watch for would be processing variations induced by the frame during agtitation cycles.
fbf
Well-known
that's awesome... i hope one day i will have the space and money/time to build a darkroom.
Nokton48
Veteran
Way back, it was hand processing a stack of 6 sheets of 4x5. With your single sheet rig, the only thing to watch for would be processing variations induced by the frame during agtitation cycles.
Yep I'm wondering about that, too. XRAY film is dearly tender when wet and VERY prone to scratching. Hence, the hacked hanger method, will give it a go soon. It does have flow holes all around, maybe that will help, maybe that will be a problem? Maybe a bigger tray is needed?
You touch this stuff with your hands and the emulsion is marked.
Nokton48
Veteran
that's awesome... i hope one day i will have the space and money/time to build a darkroom.
Thanks!
When it warms up I tend to do more printing.
Dan
Let's Sway
Yep I'm wondering about that, too. XRAY film is dearly tender when wet and VERY prone to scratching. Hence, the hacked hanger method, will give it a go soon. It does have flow holes all around, maybe that will help, maybe that will be a problem? Maybe a bigger tray is needed?
You touch this stuff with your hands and the emulsion is marked.
Are you agitating by rocking the tray?
If so, maybe try rotating the hanger 180 degrees at the end of each agitation cycle for the duration of development.
Nokton48
Veteran
The XRAY film arrived, 100 sheets 8x10 green Fuji UT for $42 including tax and shipping. Mucho cheapo.
It's super delicate, blow on it and it will scratch. Tried a test sheet in daylight Patterson 8x10 trays, it put a nice smudgy scratch right down the middle of the sheet.
It scratches easily too when it is dry. I just bought four smooth bottomed CESCO 8x10 trays, over on LFF forum they say that is the way to do it. We will see.
XRAY film is ortho and gives your photograph an "arty" tonality. Good for alternative processes, but I'm printing silver.
8x10 silver gelatin fibre contact prints would be the goal. 8x10 and 5x7!
It's super delicate, blow on it and it will scratch. Tried a test sheet in daylight Patterson 8x10 trays, it put a nice smudgy scratch right down the middle of the sheet.
It scratches easily too when it is dry. I just bought four smooth bottomed CESCO 8x10 trays, over on LFF forum they say that is the way to do it. We will see.
XRAY film is ortho and gives your photograph an "arty" tonality. Good for alternative processes, but I'm printing silver.
8x10 silver gelatin fibre contact prints would be the goal. 8x10 and 5x7!
Nokton48
Veteran
Are you agitating by rocking the tray?
If so, maybe try rotating the hanger 180 degrees at the end of each agitation cycle for the duration of development.
Thanks Saul! I'll try that. Giving up on the hanger idea, I'm told that the film sags in the hanger, and still scratches :bang::bang:
8 minute development in Rodinal 1:100 seems to be a good start.
Contrast builds up super quick with XRAY film.
42 cents for an 8x10 Fuji XRAY. 21 cents for a 5x7 Fuji XRAY. 10.5 cents for a 4x5.
Nokton48
Veteran


First test of my homemade 4x5 Sinar Norma Handy. This is hand held 4x5 camera, with a 65mm F8 Schneider Super Angulon lens. Viewfinder is a 43mm model for the Mamiya 7. Made from original Norma parts and some home made parts.
Very expired HP5 (not +) developed in JOBO with straight Acufine. This particular film has high base fog, and little shadow detail. Want to repeat tests with fresh TMAX400 in the Acufine. Using this camera requires as high a speed film as is possible. Very fun to use this. Lens always focused to hyperfocal distance for max DOF. 1/125 at F11 hand held No center filter used

Here's the completed camera.
Nokton48
Veteran


Focus Test with Makiflex Std F2 B&L Super Cinephor Motion Picture Theater Projection lens. Expired 4x5" Ilford Commercial Ortho rated at EI 50 Test target 45 degrees to wall in my studio. 6 seconds at F2 Focused on central dot. Processed in straight replenished Acufine 15 minutes tray development by safelight 65F ambient 8x10 #2 Aristo RC print Multigrade developer. Full Makiflex 9x9cm image and full 4x5 image printed full frame.
I'm diggin' this lens for pictorial work.
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