dogbunny said:
I'm looking for a scanner for pretty much the same reasons Kat stated above.
From the info everyone's been giving it looks like I'm in the market for a dedicated 35mm scanner.
I'll be shooting color and B & W. Do most dedicated 35mm scanners support both?
Also, slightly off topic... someone told me that processing color slides was the cheapest way to go, but if I'm not getting prints done is there a noticable price difference between color negative and color slide processing?
Process-only on color neg film is not only available almost everywhere, it's very cheap -- less expensive than processing on slide film. And it's been demonstrated that a color neg contains more tonal information than a slide because of its longer density range.
The downside of doing process-only on neg film is that it's difficult to evaluate color negs by eye. Having an index print or contact sheet made gives you something to edit and file, but it pushes up the cost.
If you've got a reasonably fast film scanner, one way you can get around this is to bring your negs home, batch-scan the whole roll at a moderate resolution, and then either run out a print for filing or use indexing software (iView or something similar) to manage your "proof" scans digitally. You'll still need to go back and do a customized scan to get the maximum quality out of your best images, but the batch scans should be good enough for editing and record-keeping.
The biggest downside to a color-neg-based scanning workflow, IMO, is that the film scratches easily. Even the lab's putting the negs in sleeves can put fine scratches on them. (And REALLY watch out for the lab that sleeves your uncut strip of process-only film, then rolls it up and stuffs it in a film can to return to you; that's almost guaranteed to scratch it.)
In-scanner defect repair (e.g. Digital ICE and the ilk) can reduce the visibility of the scratches -- but remember, these routines can only patch the flaws by averaging the surrounding tones; they can't magically reconstitute detail that was obliterated by the scratch or dirt.
So, shooting color neg and going straight to scans can work well -- but make sure your lab handles the film carefully, and learn to do the same yourself.