Foma 200 and 400

D23

Water 1500 ml
Metol 15 grams
Sodium Sulphite 200 grams
Water to make 2 liters

Has a tendency to develop without blocked highlights.
Worthy of experimentation with Foma
 
Nokton48 said:
D23

Water 1500 ml
Metol 15 grams
Sodium Sulphite 200 grams
Water to make 2 liters

Has a tendency to develop without blocked highlights.
Worthy of experimentation with Foma
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for this recipe. However, I had problems with detail-less shadows.
 
tho60 said:
Thank you very much for this recipe. However, I had problems with detail-less shadows.
Click to expand...

Then the answer is to -increase- exposure. Try it and see what happens.
I almost always shoot an extra frame with 1 stop more. Often it's the best frame. Frequently I'm guessing at the exposure anyway with no meter

Too contrasty means too long development. Cut 20% and see what happens.
I only like soft-working developers with FOMA. Easy to get bulletproof negs
 
D23 Replenisher

Water 52C 750 ml
Metol 10 gm
Sodium Sulphite 100 gm
Sodium Metaborate 20 gm
Cold water to make 1.0 liter


Add 22 ml per 36 exposure roll or 120 film
 
Nokton48 said:
Then the answer is to -increase- exposure. Try it and see what happens.
I almost always shoot an extra frame with 1 stop more. Often it's the best frame. Frequently I'm guessing at the exposure anyway with no meter

Too contrasty means too long development. Cut 20% and see what happens.
I only like soft-working developers with FOMA. Easy to get bulletproof negs
Click to expand...

Thank you, very good idea. I will shoot these films at ASA 50 (18 DIN)= pulling 1.5/2 stops, and shorten the developing time (e.g. 9 mins in Rodinal 1:50). Before mixing my Xtol-clone. I will see the results.
 
tho60 said:
Thank you, very good idea. I will shoot these films at ASA 50 (18 DIN)= pulling 1.5/2 stops, and shorten the developing time (e.g. 9 mins in Rodinal 1:50). Before mixing my Xtol-clone. I will see the results.
Click to expand...

You can also meter the shadows where you want some detail and then up your shutter speed one or two stops; or close down your aperture one or two stops. At that point a soft developer helps to tame any possible blown highlights, though I usually don't have that problem. I use D23 and D76 interchangeably with no concern.
 
Here's another quickie test of Foma Retropan 320.
Plaubel Makiflex, about a 6.5x9cm film scanned, Microdol-X.
This one is shot full "key" sunlight. I like the tonality.
Kern Arau 360mm Fll Apo-Repro lens at F/16.
Lens focused on branch in left center of frame.


Makiflex Retro 320 - 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Fomapan 200 in 120 = meh

I recently shot some rolls of Fomapan 200 in 120 format, and developed them using the same procedure I use for 35 mm (HC110 dil h for 7 mins at 20C). I was underwhelmed and disappointed at the results. Blocked shadows and little of the subtle mid-tones that I love in this film in 35mm. Anyone else shooting Foma 200 in MF? Interested in your thoughts abourt this film in 120.
 
Bingley said:
Fomapan 200 in 120 = meh

I recently shot some rolls of Fomapan 200 in 120 format, and developed them using the same procedure I use for 35 mm (HC110 dil h for 7 mins at 20C). I was underwhelmed and disappointed at the results. Blocked shadows and little of the subtle mid-tones that I love in this film in 35mm. Anyone else shooting Foma 200 in MF? Interested in your thoughts abourt this film in 120.
Click to expand...

I have shot a roll. See the pictures (taken with Lubitel-1, 1953).
 

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Of course results are subject to taste, but I like what I'm getting with FOMA using the Legacy Mic-X, which comes from Freestyle. And replenisher can be made up also by using Kodak instructions available on the internet. I've been using the same gallon of Mic-X for 2+ years and it's still doing the job. See results above ^^^ Also it's not expensive Recently I bought three extra packs

Same thing with Ilford Perceptol, basically about the same formulation. Soft development seems to suit this film.

001 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Legacy Pro from Freestyle, a very big supplier in the USA can probably make it by Clayton who is doing a lot of OEM business. In Europe it is Tetenal who is making most OEM products for all big factories.
 
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