Dan Daniel
Well-known
I recently used a polarizing filter on my GW690 (90mm lens) and noticed the lightest touch of vignetting in the corners. When I added a Yellow/K2 filter in a stack (testing), the vignetting was obvious. With a single plain filter- yellow, red, ND, etc., no rotating mechanism- there was no sign of vignetting.
Is this typical for this camera and lens? Have others seen vignetting with thick or stacked filters? Although I don't use a polarizing filter very often, I do sometimes stack a yellow or red with an ND.
The filter is a low-end Hoya polarizer, so the mount is thick. And yes, I have a lens hood mounted to the front. It's a metal hood meant for wide angle lenses- 10mm deep, 72mm wide. I will do tests to see if the hood is what is causing the actual vignetting; my experience says that it is too shallow, but I may learn something new here.
Is this typical for this camera and lens? Have others seen vignetting with thick or stacked filters? Although I don't use a polarizing filter very often, I do sometimes stack a yellow or red with an ND.
The filter is a low-end Hoya polarizer, so the mount is thick. And yes, I have a lens hood mounted to the front. It's a metal hood meant for wide angle lenses- 10mm deep, 72mm wide. I will do tests to see if the hood is what is causing the actual vignetting; my experience says that it is too shallow, but I may learn something new here.
kuzano
Veteran
Are you accompishing anything with the hood.
Are you accompishing anything with the hood.
Can't help you on the filter question, but I do not use a hood on any of my EBC coated Fuji lenses.
First, the front element of the lens is set very far back into the lens tube. The tube tends to act like a hood. Secondly, EBC coating by Fuji is some of the best coating you will find against lens flare.
So, my question again.... Do you need the hood?
Are you accompishing anything with the hood.
Can't help you on the filter question, but I do not use a hood on any of my EBC coated Fuji lenses.
First, the front element of the lens is set very far back into the lens tube. The tube tends to act like a hood. Secondly, EBC coating by Fuji is some of the best coating you will find against lens flare.
So, my question again.... Do you need the hood?
ChrisN
Striving
Is this typical? I'd say yes, especially with stacked filters and more so at wide apertures.
Dan Daniel
Well-known
Maybe the lens doesn't need a hood, but *I* do?
Must admit it makes me feel as if the camera is safer, the lens is protected better. On the GW690, I think that the front element is pretty close to the front edge. Maybe 1/4 inch depth and minimal shielding? I can only assume that Fuji agrees in a way since at least version III has a built-in hood (I have the first version, no built-in hood).Your experience with the EBC coatings (yes, redundant) is good to hear. I've used some Pentax SMC lenses that wouldn't flare no matter what you did, it seemed, but most of my recent shooting has been with older Rolleis, other TLRs, and folders. Thanks for pointing out that the Fuji coatings are a different beast.
ChrisN, thanks for the info. I guess I'm disappointed that a single polarizing filter is causing the first hints of vignetting. The most recent case was at f/16, so I guess that particular filter is staying at home. Bummer- I don't want to spend money for a thin-mount polarizer that hardly ever gets used, yet when I need it is the only thing that will work. Oh well...
ChrisN
Striving
I have the first-version GSW 690, which came with a hood that clips to the outside of the lens, and filters can fit inside that. Perhaps they made a similar hood for the GW model? Or even better might be if the GSW hood also fit the GW? That would be better than a hood that screws into the filter.
What conditions do you use the polarising filter for? You've mentioned yellow and red filters so I guess that's with B&W film?
A Lee filter system might be the best option for stacking filters, but that costs a small fortune. I've used grad NDs this way but had to guess at what height to set the graduation (as you can't see the effect in the viewfinder). You must do something similar with the polariser.
What conditions do you use the polarising filter for? You've mentioned yellow and red filters so I guess that's with B&W film?
A Lee filter system might be the best option for stacking filters, but that costs a small fortune. I've used grad NDs this way but had to guess at what height to set the graduation (as you can't see the effect in the viewfinder). You must do something similar with the polariser.
Dan Daniel
Well-known
One thing I'm doing with the GW690 is what I guess could be called urban landscapes? A polarizer can be helpful to reduce the brightness of windows due to reflection of the sky, tone down car windows, and such.
I hold the filter to my eye, find the effect, note the index mark, and try to get it mounted to the camera in the same orientation.
I need to confirm that it is the filter, not the hood, by taking test shots with no hood. Maybe you are on to something, that the internal thread ring of the hood is part of the problem.
I hold the filter to my eye, find the effect, note the index mark, and try to get it mounted to the camera in the same orientation.
I need to confirm that it is the filter, not the hood, by taking test shots with no hood. Maybe you are on to something, that the internal thread ring of the hood is part of the problem.