v_roma
Well-known
Continuing on this topic, I guess, what is the difference between silent and normal mode in terms of both noise and speed? Thanks.
PetarDima
Well-known
200 E for K Hexar? where ? where ? where ?
BTW KHexar is gift from heaven :angel:
if fujifilm x100 replace Hexar in digi-world, it will be new cult-camera
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TSW
Newbie
So true. I love this camera. I like that the AF (multi-beam active) works really well, and that it has a self-timer. I have some great interior shots b/c of the self-timer. And it's easy to hand off to someone to take a photo.
Also, the flash in P mode works like an old flashmatic- the aperture is adjusted to deal with the flash at full power, and the shutter is adjusted to balance the background exposure. And this is at 1/250 max- many RFs don't don't sync up to that.
The main thing is the lens. I found textures to be creamy, and OOF to be very gentle, helping your subject to pop.
My only beef is that after 10 yrs or so, my shutter button is acting up; and, about 7-8 yrs ago, it was freezing up in a foggy mountain top- probably the moisture messing with the electronics. If I were to carry one travel camera, this would be it- but I'd be wary of its reliability after all these years.
I hope the X100 will be this camera in the digital world- I think multi-beam AF would be better; and I'd like it to be pretty robust.
Paul T.
Veteran
The shutter problem is reasonably common, and easily fixed - check out this thread .
Yes, me too. I think Fuji will have to go some, though, to get a camera quite as usable. Copying the Hexar's P mode, as literally as possible, would be a good way to start.
morback
Martin N. Hinze
I was thinking about my T3
Too bad the AF is so big and has such a low top speed...Otherwise I'd be tempted...
Arjay
Time Traveller
On my black Hexar, the differences are (normal vs. silent mode):
- Focusing delay: ~0.1s vs. ~0.2s
- Focusing noise: clearly audible vs. audible only to photographer (just barely), both in quiet environments
- Shutter/film advance noise: almost inaudible, but rewind follows immediately and is audible except in noisy environments vs. almost inaudible in quiet environments, film advance only occurs after you take your finger off the shutter release button (!!)
- Film advance speed (focusing, caption & film advance cycle): ~1s vs. 2.5s
PS: There do seem to be differences in noise level between the various editions of this camera. Buzzardkid's link to his Hexar AF test contains audio recordings of his Hexar Silver's actuation sounds, and it appears that the relative differences between normal and silent mode for his version are smaller than on my black version. Mine seems to be a lot quieter, both in normal and silent mode.
Arjay
Time Traveller
Another comment in reply to the thread opener's intitial contribution:I think this camera is fairly unique - it is certainly the most capable analog P&S camera there ever was in terms of lens quality and versatility. If you have one, don't miss to activate the hidden camera functions:
I took a while to develop love for this camera because it also has some quirks:
- Silent mode (deactivated in later versions, but can be enabled),
- automatic bracketing,
- quick exposure setting in M mode,
- manual selection of flash guide number (so you can use flashes other than the HX-14),
- ISO speed selection for IR films and changing AF mode for IR shooting, and
- multi-exposure.
I took a while to develop love for this camera because it also has some quirks:
- The camera's user interface is not intuitive. The multifunction buttons aren't self-explanatory (so you need to carry a cuecard with you in the beginning to handle them correctly).
- The command buttons are arranged very unergonomically. If e.g. you want to lock the AF at a certain distance, you need to keep your right index finger on the shutter button while pressing the MF button. This button is positioned so awkwardly that you cannot reach it with another finger of the right hand while you keep the shutter depressed. You actually need to use your left hand, let go holding the camera and feel around with your left index finger for that button (if you don't want to take your eye away from the viewfinder). Very awkward - it takes some time getting used to this.
- In some cases, manually focusing the camera is advisable for street photography, e.g. when you want to shoot 'from the hip'. To set manual focus takes some button pushing as the focus has to be set by pressing Up/Down keys.
- The camera's lens does not have depth of field scales, so zone focusing requires a bit of improvisation: I designed my own DOF scale for this camera using the DOFmaster software and cellotaped the scale to the camera's film door.
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sniki
Well-known
I do insist on: Hexar AF is a revealed religion!
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muf
Well-known
Mine just arrived today. It feels really great to hold and use. I'll put a film through it as soon as, but for now I'm just trying to understand it a little better. It's the databack version which is a bonus as I like to run the first shot off with date so I have a precise record of when I took the shots. Nice camera. Hope the pictures are as impressive as the instrument.
Biggest bonus. No duty to pay. Thought I was ganna get stung bad!
Paul
Biggest bonus. No duty to pay. Thought I was ganna get stung bad!
Paul
v3cron
Well-known
I'm on my second one, and I've fallen a bit out of love with it, but not for any logical reason. It has a great lens, an amazing finder, and it's fast! I just find the buttons and stuff a bit too complicated for thoughtless, gut-level use (next to my Ricohs). Totally a personal thing.
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muf
Well-known
Ayone tell me what size lens cap it takes. Mine came as the camera only. No flash, no manual, no strap and no lens cap. The strap I can sort and I've got loads of flashes. I've downloaded the manual so the only thing is a lens cap. I suppose a case would be nice but I take it these never had a dedicated case? Any suggestions for a good case and what size lens cap and type do you recommend? Or would I be better with a skylight filter, actally two with one with the glass knocked out to get the extra room so the lens doesn't hit the back of the filter. As you can tell, I'm a Hexar virgin and although I'm having fun touching and feeling, there's no substitute to knowledge and experience.
Paul
Paul
sniki
Well-known
Forget the original model with clamp: almost useless.
If you take a filter (strongly recommended) use a 48mm. plastic cap: it fits well tight hitting the mark. Schneider-Kreuznach optik does.
If you take a filter (strongly recommended) use a 48mm. plastic cap: it fits well tight hitting the mark. Schneider-Kreuznach optik does.
filmfan
Well-known
I used the Hexar AF for a few years as my primary camera. I ended up wishing for the more involved experience of a manual camera, so I sold it. I wish I did not, for there are times when the Hexar is just perfect. However, these times do not occur on a daily basis. It is definitely a specialized camera that is untouchable in its niche.
EDIT: I am weak and bought another one
EDIT: I am weak and bought another one
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
That is, the push on cap should be 48mm. The Hexar AF takes 46mm filters.
When close focusing, the front lens element can jam into the filter, leaving the camera with an error message. Easiest way to avoid this: take another simple or scratched filter and knock out the glass. Use the empty ring as a spacer to fit the filter onto.
PatrickT
New Rangefinder User
I got mine a couple months ago and am LOVING it. Such a great camera.
I was feeling a bit limited by the 1/250 shutter speed, but recently went out and bought myself an ND8 filter.
Am I correct in saying that I need to manually compensate for the filter? As in, shooting ISO400 film, I need to set the camera to ISO50? These things tend to confuse me and I don't know why...
I was feeling a bit limited by the 1/250 shutter speed, but recently went out and bought myself an ND8 filter.
Am I correct in saying that I need to manually compensate for the filter? As in, shooting ISO400 film, I need to set the camera to ISO50? These things tend to confuse me and I don't know why...
perudo
Established
I was very lucky to buy a hexar af, 2 weeks ago. I paid 285 euros for it, it came with original flash and accessories. The guy who sold it to me was collecting cameras, and never used it, so it is in mint condition, just like i I bought it new. I'm a big fan of my m6, but I must admit I am having a lot of fun with the hexar. You don't really have to make an effort to think about things, and this lets me concentrate only on the picture. So for the moment my m6 stays on the shelve ....
Anyway, in terms of size, I would rather compare the hexar to a m6, than to a point and shoot.
Owning an m6 and a hexar af is fine, you own an all manual and an all automatic camera
Anyway, in terms of size, I would rather compare the hexar to a m6, than to a point and shoot.
Owning an m6 and a hexar af is fine, you own an all manual and an all automatic camera
dh-photo
Member
I believe the light meter is not metering through the lens, so yes, you do have to manually compensate for ND filters.
BUT I'm not 100% sure, as I have yet to receive my camera yet. It'll arrive next week, I'm quite excited!
/David
BUT I'm not 100% sure, as I have yet to receive my camera yet. It'll arrive next week, I'm quite excited!
/David
muf
Well-known
Are you sure? I have a 51mm plastic push-on cap for one of my SLR's and it is too small for the hexar. With the built in lens hood, the outside diameter is surely much more than an extra 2mm over the filter size of 46mm? Am I missing something here? Even just using a tape measure it looks more like 52mm and could be more.
Paul
sniki
Well-known
This is the point: taking a cap that fits on the filter (48mm. internal cap diameter) is definitely better than one that fits on the built-in lens hood (54mm. internal cap diameter). I have 3 Hexar AF (2 original black and 1 Classic 120 years anniversary); I arrange the first two to fit 48mm. Schneider-Kreuznach optik, while the Classic one came with its dedicated special silver engraved (very nice, but heavy and drooping prone) that fits on the sliding hood.
muf
Well-known
Oh I see now. The cap is to fit over the filter. That makes a lot of sense. So if I buy two 46mm filters and knock the glass out of one. I then fit that 'blank' filter between the camera lens and the good filter. I'll do that. Just need two 46mm skylights then. One cheap one and one good one.
Another question. Due to the restriction of 1/250 shutter speed, I see ND filters are recommended. Which one can anyone recommend. If using say an ND4 then what is the calculation I need to do to work out what ISO the camera needs adjusting to?
Thanks for the help guys.
Paul