Rogrund
Antti Sivén
Thomas78
Well-known
Canon P with Canon 50mm f/1.2
Ilford Delta 3200 in DD-X

Canon P_Canon 50 1,2_03_Delta 3200_033 von thomas.78 auf Flickr
Ilford Delta 3200 in DD-X

Canon P_Canon 50 1,2_03_Delta 3200_033 von thomas.78 auf Flickr
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat

Before I cleaned out my copy, at or near wide open on Plus-X in D76. Now it's much better (less veiling flare) and more contrasty/sharp all the way around. Corners still aren't very sharp.
Same lens on same camera: Canon VT, but stopped down to f/8 or f/11 with a circular polarizer also on Plus-X in D-76 1:1.

mretina
Well-known

Canon P, Canon 50mm f1.2 LTM RF by mraposio, on Flickr

Canon P, Canon 50mm f1.2 LTM RF by mraposio, on Flickr

Canon P, Canon 50mm f1.2 LTM RF by mraposio, on Flickr
Rogrund
Antti Sivén
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
Bump!
10 chars...
10 chars...
Wulfthari
Well-known
The trouble is finding one that doesn't vignette... I've seen it mentioned that practically anything screw-in thicker than a slim filter will vignette on this lens. The original hood is 57mm slip-on with a tightening screw, if I'm not mistaken?
It seems that the dedicated hood for the Olympus OM 55/1.2 (but NOT the later 50/1.2) is a good fit but those are not cheap or plentiful either.
BTW, could you measure the original hood for us - the diameter of the front opening and the length of the cylindrical shading part should be enough. It would be useful for either a DIY solution or looking for a good alternative.
For mine I plan to use an S-60, I've heard that it should work, hopefully without vignetting and without blocking the viewfinder.
When the seller told me he wanted more than $200 for the vented one I got a scare.
Chris Bail
Regular Guy
Some really lovely pictures here.
A couple more recent ones with mine:

Goodwill - East Ohio St by Chris Bail, on Flickr

#12-M3-Canon50mmf1p2LTM-AristaPremium400-2 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
A couple more recent ones with mine:

Goodwill - East Ohio St by Chris Bail, on Flickr

#12-M3-Canon50mmf1p2LTM-AristaPremium400-2 by Chris Bail, on Flickr
ray*j*gun
Veteran
Yep, this is a lens I should not have sold.....



Wulfthari
Well-known
Yep, this is a lens I should not have sold.....![]()
Somebody sells...somebody buys.
Update, I got the lens, unfortunately it needs CLA because it's hazed, however I promised I was posting some pics and I'll do that, even if they are bad pics.
Self portray of the camera (nevermind the tired photographer), please appreciate the halos:

Backlight bokeh:

isorgb
Well-known
Engineer.


Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
Somebody sells...somebody buys.
Update, I got the lens, unfortunately it needs CLA because it's hazed, however I promised I was posting some pics and I'll do that, even if they are bad pics.
Self portray of the camera (nevermind the tired photographer), please appreciate the halos:
[IM-G]http://i60.tinypic.com/29bzllx.jpg[/IMG]
Backlight bokeh:
[IM-G]http://i60.tinypic.com/260za0y.jpg[/IMG]
Looks very similar to mine before I cleaned out the haze. Quite a simple job if you have a spanner or can make one.
Wulfthari
Well-known
Looks very similar to mine before I cleaned out the haze. Quite a simple job if you have a spanner or can make one.
Unfortunately I don't have a spanner but I'm working on that...where can I procure one?
Mackinaw
Think Different
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
The cheap ones are on eBay and they work but aren't exactly optimum. I found some very old ones at a camera swap/show and after some filing on the tips they have been good.
I also have filed down tips of small cheap "outside snap ring pliers" successfully for smaller jobs, but they aren't as fool proof/easy to use as dedicated spanners.
Just go slow and don't force/rush anything. Last thing you want to do is scar the lens (or worse, scratch the glass) unnecessarily. Buying cheap/broken lenses for practice is a very good idea. I'm much more comfortable working on my own good/personal equipment after fixing a couple FSU rangefinders, taking them apart and stripping down Industars/Jupiter-8s/Helios 44s first.
I also have filed down tips of small cheap "outside snap ring pliers" successfully for smaller jobs, but they aren't as fool proof/easy to use as dedicated spanners.
Just go slow and don't force/rush anything. Last thing you want to do is scar the lens (or worse, scratch the glass) unnecessarily. Buying cheap/broken lenses for practice is a very good idea. I'm much more comfortable working on my own good/personal equipment after fixing a couple FSU rangefinders, taking them apart and stripping down Industars/Jupiter-8s/Helios 44s first.
bideford
Established
A mixed bag from my 1.2 - all with a Leica M:
James




James
kshapero
South Florida Man
Just received my sample today. First impressions:
a) It looks awesome on an M body.
b) The form factor is quite unusual: really fat but very short. It seems to protrude less from the body than even my old Jupiter-8. Much shorter physically than most Planar-like designs. From diagrams on the web, the optical layout looks much like the Canon f/0.95 and the f/1 Noctilux has some similarities as well. Probably contains some high-refraction glass.
c) Focus feels very smooth and precise thanks to ~180 degree travel and large diameter focus ring.
d) Why on earth did this thing need an infinity lock :bang:
Just got this lens. Oh sweet sweet but I agree, who needs this infinity lock?Love the throw on this.
nikonosguy
Well-known
ruby.monkey
Veteran
Just got this lens. Oh sweet sweet but I agree, who needs this infinity lock?Love the throw on this.
It's a simple matter to open up the lens (which you'll have to do sooner or later anyway, to clean out the haze that'll inevitably accumulate on the inside surfaces of the rear lens elements) and remove the infinity lock. I'd also suggest adding a large TAAB, especially if you're using the original lens hood, as the barrel is a bugger to get a grip on.
Lovely lens, mind you.

scissors by Jean-Yves, on Flickr
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