Is there a film scanner that you load and walk away?

68degrees

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Is there a stand alone film scanner that you load a roll of processed film into and walk away, come back later and all the scans are done and saved on a usb card?
 
My Nikon 5000 ED does that for 35mm film.

Note that after scanning, the real work starts, i.e., post processing, including leveling and dust removal for B+W film, and color adjustment for negative or slide film.

Roland.
 
Yes, Super Coolscan 5000 ED. Not the standard Coolscan model.

BTW, you can do the same with any of the Nikon Coolscan IV and V models (these things have too many names and designators ...!) when you use APS film and the APS Film Holder. Load a roll, set up the configuration, and walk away while it scans up to 40 frames automatically.

It's generally not the way to get the best quality scans, however.
 
Also, More expensive options is high-end flatbed (Creo, Screen...etc.). I mentioned it because you didn't mention budget "I don't want to be flamed 🙂 ).

Also since you live in the US, so your options seem better than many.
 
Some other options are a Pacific Image (I think in Europe they are sold as Reflecta) 7250pro3 and the Epson V700/V750. I haven't used either, so I can't speak to their quality; I know a lot of people are satisfied with their V700's.

The Pacific Image actually takes a whole roll and feeds it through. I have heard of people having some issues with alignment; i.e. the framelines get messed up partway through the roll. I think it doesn't actually use the sprocket holes to feed the film through.

The V700 is a flat bed, and can do up to 24 frames cut into strips of 6. So kind of a whole roll, but only if you shoot small rolls.

-Greg
 
The Coolscan V and 5000 are essentially identical at the hardware level, but Nikon crippled the software on the V to make it slower and also disallow using the SA-30 batch roll film loader and SF-210 slide feeder (which are also usable on the older Super Coolscan 4000ED).

I can attest that the 5000ED + SA-30 + SF210 works very well, specially if you use VueScan instead of the crashy Nikon Scan (which also requires you to use obsolete OS like Win XP to work). Unfortunately, it was discontinued. I saw old-new-stock at Keeble & Shuchat in Palo Alto, California a year or so ago, but they must have sold out by now.

Most recent minilabs (Fuji Frontier, Noritsu QSS) use a hybrid model where film is developed using conventional wet chemistry, then batch scanned and printed by exposing photo paper with a laser or LED. This allows the minilab software to salvage under/overexposed frames as a service to consumers. The batch film loader can be used even for film that was not processed by the minilab, so if you find a friendly Frontier or Noritsu operator somewhere who has time on his hands, you could have him scan your rolls. Quality won't be as good as on a Coolscan (3200 dpi at best), and I think you only get JPEGs out of the process, but productivity-wise it's the best option as the machinery is designed specifically for high-volume, low-touch production work.
 
The Coolscan V and 5000 are essentially identical at the hardware level, but Nikon crippled the software on the V to make it slower and also disallow using the SA-30 batch roll film loader and SF-210 slide feeder (which are also usable on the older Super Coolscan 4000ED). ...

I don't think it was so much a matter of "crippling the software" as trying to produce a lower cost model of the same fine scanner.

The Coolscan IV/V ED models included only USB ports (v1.1 on the IV, v2.0 on the V) ... the USB chipset is a lot less expensive than the FireWire port on the Super Coolscan models.

Also, the IV/V ED models do not have the port and guide rails in the enclosure to allow long rolls to pass out of the scanner body, that's why they're not compatible with the long roll feeder. This saved on manufacturing costs.
 
I've never owned one but ran a lot of work through one at a local lab. There were 3 operators running an IQ3. One guy was light years better than the other two in getting great scans. All had thousands of hours on the Creo - doing wet scans. It got to the point where I had my jobs on hold for the single best Creo Pilot. Scan cost ran from $125 -$250 depending of the file size. The job would run until I was satisfied with the file. The good pilot could knock out great scans in one or two runs.

Wet Scanning is another thing (I just started and up to know, I had two to three excellent scans out of 15) but dry scan is already sharp and low on grain or noise...wet mounting will make smoother image base on my few tries. I will try to scan 3-4 scans next time and keep it at lower frames to keep it simple and fast.

No ICE though, but I started developing C-41 and E-6 to avoid scratches...etc.

It's Slow though (comparing to Imacon and such) I have the iQsmart2.
 
My Friend printed 24" wide from 6x7 ektar (Clean Negative though) dry mounted I scanned it with the iQsmart2 and it looks as good as a print can be IMO (I'm not experienced printing but I just started with smaller format).

I doubt if your conclusion is the case base on my reading but if you have experience then probably you are right. I scanned couple of frames dry mounted and compare them to the V700 with better scanning holder and the difference is really huge (and smaller from my friends Flextight 646) all were dry mounted. This is IMO
 
Is there a stand alone film scanner that you load a roll of processed film into and walk away, come back later and all the scans are done and saved on a usb card?

Consider an alternative to solving the real problem. Simply edit your negs on a lightbox and then scan only the real keepers. Editing negs is technically a very simple task. The art of editing is difficult but that applies no matter how you approach it technically.

Realistically, no one shoots more than 1-2 or 3 really good frames on a 36 exposure roll. The key is to identify them before you scan.
 
the Nikon 4000 and 5000, as stated. I modified my SA-21 to scan a full roll, do a quick low res scan of the full roll and decide which frames to scan full res. Very quick to do. But I should really get a light table. I am thinking about it for ages now and it is not that expensive...buying a Summicron in a heart beat, but being shy on getting a € 150,-- light table...oh my 🙂
 
Consider an alternative to solving the real problem. Simply edit your negs on a lightbox and then scan only the real keepers. Editing negs is technically a very simple task. The art of editing is difficult but that applies no matter how you approach it technically.

Realistically, no one shoots more than 1-2 or 3 really good frames on a 36 exposure roll. The key is to identify them before you scan.

This is the best advice i read in a long time. Could not agree more !!
 
I just got my Epson V700 today,,,
and I Tried the Silverfast software 1st.... You have to frame each negative manually..

The Epson Scan Software will automatically select each negative, and frame them and number them.

you can then select each negative to adjust the histogram etc... and then when you are done, Select "ALL" in the Preview box, and select SCAN, and where you want to save them.. you can select your DPI and File type also, along with a Prefix that can be a Job Name, or whatever...

It will scan all the negatives with ONE PASS! and save them with a sequential number also.

So, it could software dependent also by the manufacturer

I know this is a bit late 😉, But for future readers, it may give another option, if they might consider the Epson V700, V750. :angel:
 
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