Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I just wrote today in Canadian Leica Photos of Canada thread how everything is cheeky and rosy in my M land... New scanner, plenty of film.
I started to scan Montreal Nov 2017 negatives I haven't print from yet and... :bang: the M4-2 light leak is crippling back. It didn't lasted long after second repair.
I'm about to sell it as is with problem(s) disclosure. If I sell it at all... I don't like to send it for another 280 USD to get it done, plus, at least curtains or else cost. I might keep it as spare camera and keep on saving for repair. But then I'm about to sell M3, because I'm not 50 guy and I have good 50 on working (and fixable) FSU. And my forte is with Summarit-M 35 2.5.
What is most durable film M for 35 in 2018? M4 Wetzlar or any as new as possible M?
Or just back to Bessa with R2A or R3A and run it until paint will be lost at corners, ribber grip will be scratched all over and shutter blades will show some wear. This is what I did with mint R last time within couple of years.
I'm not gear abuser, I just like to use one trusted and not cumbersome camera, lens few times per week, every week and keep it in my bag all the time with me.
I started to scan Montreal Nov 2017 negatives I haven't print from yet and... :bang: the M4-2 light leak is crippling back. It didn't lasted long after second repair.
I'm about to sell it as is with problem(s) disclosure. If I sell it at all... I don't like to send it for another 280 USD to get it done, plus, at least curtains or else cost. I might keep it as spare camera and keep on saving for repair. But then I'm about to sell M3, because I'm not 50 guy and I have good 50 on working (and fixable) FSU. And my forte is with Summarit-M 35 2.5.
What is most durable film M for 35 in 2018? M4 Wetzlar or any as new as possible M?
Or just back to Bessa with R2A or R3A and run it until paint will be lost at corners, ribber grip will be scratched all over and shutter blades will show some wear. This is what I did with mint R last time within couple of years.
I'm not gear abuser, I just like to use one trusted and not cumbersome camera, lens few times per week, every week and keep it in my bag all the time with me.
They are all essentially the same durability if they have been well-cared for (I.e., haven’t been abused) and have been serviced within a recent time frame by a competent tech.
Nearly any camera can easily sustain that amount of regular use.
Nearly any camera can easily sustain that amount of regular use.
farlymac
PF McFarland
What is the nature of the leak, Ko? Is it a holed curtain?
PF
PF
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
No idea. Some users have it fixed by main light shield replacement (where curtains are). But I was told what in my case, if it comes back, it is curtains. Yet, similar light leak was reported not been fixed by curtains replacement..
f16sunshine
Moderator
Ha!
M’s can be like high maintenance girlfriends!
Jokes aside..
Better to keep and repair than sell and buy another that will need a repair.
Maintanence is repairs that must be continually done.
Whether it 100 or 1000 rolls bewteen repairs... It is what it is with mechanical things.
M’s can be like high maintenance girlfriends!
Jokes aside..
Better to keep and repair than sell and buy another that will need a repair.
Maintanence is repairs that must be continually done.
Whether it 100 or 1000 rolls bewteen repairs... It is what it is with mechanical things.
mcfingon
Western Australia
I'm finding my M6 a very natural 35 lens camera Kostya. Quick and easy. My 35 is the Zeiss Biogon 35/2.
Mute-on
Well-known
Well, for a 35mm lens, there’s the M2, and then there’s everything else.
There’s a reason why Tom A had so many of them. You owe it to yourself to try an M2. It’s the purest, simplest of all the M cameras, and built like a vault.
IMO, of course
There’s a reason why Tom A had so many of them. You owe it to yourself to try an M2. It’s the purest, simplest of all the M cameras, and built like a vault.
IMO, of course
Huss
Veteran
You owe it to yourself to try an M2. It’s the purest, simplest of all the M cameras, and built like a vault.
IMO, of course
The MD-A is purer, simpler and more vault like.
Not having an rf mechanism or vf guarantees that. Most reliable Leica ever.
stompyq
Well-known
I like my M4 with 35mm lenses
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Well, for a 35mm lens, there’s the M2, and then there’s everything else.
There’s a reason why Tom A had so many of them. You owe it to yourself to try an M2. It’s the purest, simplest of all the M cameras, and built like a vault.
IMO, of course
Where is some mystery in my memory for this particular matter. While Bodo (ex-Midland ELC technician) was still with us I remember one M2 ELC (according to serial number) for sale from him, which was modified from no RF model. It has added RF, but frames where not switching (it was the reason why I didn't wanted it).
Gregm61
Well-known
Holes in M-shutter curtains can be all-too easy to happen no matter the film body/model. The camera just needs to be slung over the shoulder and exposed to the sun long enough for an uncovered lens to magnify the sunlight at the cloth curtain long enough to do the deed. I think about it all the time when I'm outdoors with my M4 or M6. Fortunately, it's a non-issue with the M262.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Holes from sun exposure doesn't looks as my M4-2 light leak.
I have burned curtain by sun exposure in FED-2 just within couple of minutes with J-3 wide open on sun and snow day.
With FED-2 it costs nothing to replace. I have shutter cloth material and it is DIY.
But M4-2 both curtains replacement is going to cost me around 500 USD. I need to sell something I don't need and keep on saving to do it.
I have burned curtain by sun exposure in FED-2 just within couple of minutes with J-3 wide open on sun and snow day.
With FED-2 it costs nothing to replace. I have shutter cloth material and it is DIY.
But M4-2 both curtains replacement is going to cost me around 500 USD. I need to sell something I don't need and keep on saving to do it.
ktmrider
Well-known
I would suggest getting in touch with Youxin Ye. Not only is he very reasonable for repair (as well as super fast) but he usually has M's for sale. Perhaps you could work out a partial trade for one of his CLA'ed cameras.
As an aside, I am thinking of picking up a digital M (probably used 240) and I have too many cameras already. I am thinking of keeping my M5 as my film body.
As an aside, I am thinking of picking up a digital M (probably used 240) and I have too many cameras already. I am thinking of keeping my M5 as my film body.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Sunholes
Another reason the M5 is the best M.
The meter cel protects the curtains from Sunholes when it’s in place.
Advance frame On M5 and Sunhole protection is engaged..... Sounds so sci-fy
Maybe you’re an M5 person. Won’t know until you try one.
Another reason the M5 is the best M.
The meter cel protects the curtains from Sunholes when it’s in place.
Advance frame On M5 and Sunhole protection is engaged..... Sounds so sci-fy
Maybe you’re an M5 person. Won’t know until you try one.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Thank you all for support, offers and info!
Will see how my M3 sale goes and what I'll be able to afford after and if it will be sold....
I'm going to check M4-2 with single use canister films.
I can't see this light leak on slide film, which I exposed and developed after Montreal exposures with light leak on re-loadable cassettes with bulk film. I exposed this slide film mostly on sunny days, this is then this light leak shows up.
Will see how my M3 sale goes and what I'll be able to afford after and if it will be sold....
I'm going to check M4-2 with single use canister films.
I can't see this light leak on slide film, which I exposed and developed after Montreal exposures with light leak on re-loadable cassettes with bulk film. I exposed this slide film mostly on sunny days, this is then this light leak shows up.
farlymac
PF McFarland
That may be your answer right there. It could be your re-loadables need the felts replaced.
PF
Hatchetman
Well-known
I would contact DAG (Don Goldberg). That guy did some outstanding work for me recently.
leicapixie
Well-known
I fully understand about the Leitzleaks.
In plain English, I am thoroughly sick of all the maintenance,
My M3 leaks light when (now never) I change lenses.
It might be the shutter, the guide rails, some baffle.
It seems it is always there, even after services.
Find a body, it matters little which one.
Just one without these problems.
I love my Leicas but truth tell, my most reliable cameras were Pentax Spotmatics ( now all without meter) or my K-1000.
Professional use in severe coditions of dust, dirt, smoke and flying debris, stone, bricks and bullets..
The SP meters finall stopped but my Leica meter was finished 3 years after new purchase, always a problem.
I am retired and a huge repair bill for possibilities of fixing light leak, NOT GONNA HAPPEN.
Use the Bessas. All the best.
In plain English, I am thoroughly sick of all the maintenance,
My M3 leaks light when (now never) I change lenses.
It might be the shutter, the guide rails, some baffle.
It seems it is always there, even after services.
Find a body, it matters little which one.
Just one without these problems.
I love my Leicas but truth tell, my most reliable cameras were Pentax Spotmatics ( now all without meter) or my K-1000.
Professional use in severe coditions of dust, dirt, smoke and flying debris, stone, bricks and bullets..
The SP meters finall stopped but my Leica meter was finished 3 years after new purchase, always a problem.
I am retired and a huge repair bill for possibilities of fixing light leak, NOT GONNA HAPPEN.
Use the Bessas. All the best.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
UPD: M3 is gone locally. For same price I have purchased it locally two years ago. So, now with cash, my only option is to buy locally. I checked how much is new Bessa locally. R2M is 1149 CAD before taxes. It is close to 1K$ USD before taxes and 1050 USD after taxes...
I have a funny feeling what my best option is to get 28 and 35 viewfinders and use my Zorki as second, if not main film RF camera with J-3 (I already have Leica VF for it), Jupiter-12 and Ultron 28 1.9. I already have usable VF for 35 and it worked with Orion-15 as well. But it is crappy DIY from crapped out XA.
And for 1K$ CAD I could locally purchase used Canon 6D FF DLSR and use it while M-E will be for long time in service. And sell it slightly less after M-E is back.
It seems to be most practical and boring solution.
I have a funny feeling what my best option is to get 28 and 35 viewfinders and use my Zorki as second, if not main film RF camera with J-3 (I already have Leica VF for it), Jupiter-12 and Ultron 28 1.9. I already have usable VF for 35 and it worked with Orion-15 as well. But it is crappy DIY from crapped out XA.
And for 1K$ CAD I could locally purchase used Canon 6D FF DLSR and use it while M-E will be for long time in service. And sell it slightly less after M-E is back.
It seems to be most practical and boring solution.
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
An M2 with a 35mm is unbeatable in my books. One of my all time favourites.
There are R2M offered in Japan with free shipping for under $700 Cdn.
There are R2M offered in Japan with free shipping for under $700 Cdn.