jcrutcher
Veteran
How close to operation is it to my Leica IIIF? they look very much the same with Zorki having less features. Thanks JIm
Mablo
Well-known
Operating a Zorki-1 is quite close to Leica II/III. Just don't change speeds before winding on the shutter first.
valdas
Veteran
I have never operated Leica II/III, but at least for my Zorki 1 the real pain is the film loading...
newspaperguy
Well-known
"How close to operation is it to my Leica IIIF?"
A little smaller, a little lighter, but all-in-all the
same experience, only without the slow speeds.
(You will however, soon miss the sling lugs.)
A little smaller, a little lighter, but all-in-all the
same experience, only without the slow speeds.
(You will however, soon miss the sling lugs.)
wolves3012
Veteran
The 2C did have strap-lugs. It's fractionally narrower than a IIIC but a bit taller.
wolves3012
Veteran
Do you actually mean a Zorki 1 or a 2C? They're both closer to a Leica II than III. The Leica is a much better made tool but otherwise not much different. Your IIIF will have a higher RF magnification and will have slow-speeds - lacking from the Zorki.
jcrutcher
Veteran
Sorry it's a Zorki 1 (C2) model with the export markings. no lugs. loading has been difficult very much like the Leica but other than that it appears easy to use. Thanks for the heads up about changing speeds and all other ideas. Jim
wolves3012
Veteran
Unlike the Leica, there's a pin to stop you going between "B" and 1/500th on the dial. Setting the shutter speed uncocked means you might accidentally try to do this, which would break the pin if you forced it. Other than that, it's pretty pointless trying to guess the set speed but it won't do any damage. The models with slow-speeds are the ones NEVER to change uncocked. Some FSUs will let you, others won't so it's just better not to get into a bad habit if you own several (most of us seem to!)
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
With a Zorki in hand, you tend to worry less and can be more casual in handling the camera. Unlike with the more expensive Leica IIIF, which you tend to be more careful with, and consider more the situations where you'd be taking it to.
Then there is also the frame counter setting. With Leica IIIc or IIIf you do it by turning the counter disc COUNTERCLOCKWISE to zero. With Zorki (and similar FED), you turn the dial CLOCKWISE, in the same direction as the turn of the winding knob. This is to prevent the weakening of the winding restriction spring under the winding knob.
See ZORKI STUFF here.
Then there is also the frame counter setting. With Leica IIIc or IIIf you do it by turning the counter disc COUNTERCLOCKWISE to zero. With Zorki (and similar FED), you turn the dial CLOCKWISE, in the same direction as the turn of the winding knob. This is to prevent the weakening of the winding restriction spring under the winding knob.
See ZORKI STUFF here.