Just developed my first roll

[squirrel$$$bandit]

First try ever! Delta 100 in D76. The whole way through, I felt like I'd f*&%'ed up everything. Turns out about three quarters of them came out OK. Some big white patches from my horrible winding...lots of little creases on the edges...but in the end it worked. They're hanging here beside me drying.

I should have gotten a plastic reel...it's hard to feel how well it is or isn't winding on. Maybe I'll get a cheap roll from the supermarket and yank it out and practice for a day or two.

Feels good though! Thanks for your advice!

 

[Florian1234]

Hey,

sounds good.

I developed my first roll Tri-X 400 in Amaloco universal developer last week. Turned out very good, waiting for prints now. 🙂

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

I did end up getting a Patterson tank and it was much, much easier. I did a couple more rolls and am very happy with the results--another Delta, and a Tri-X.

I told a "serious" photographer friend that I'd switched to plastic reels, and she said "metal reels are better." Why?, I asked. "They just are." 🙄

 

[Florian1234]

I use an old Jobo tank, but will most certainly upgrade soon to a new Jobo tank, because the newer ones have better spools (plastic).
The current one I use did not let the whole roll of Tri-X fit on the spool, so I have a white line on the last three or four frames now, because the developer did not get there properly.

But the overall results looked very good. Now I'm waiting for the lab to get me prints, because I'm not that far to set up a darkroom for printing myself. Lack of space at the moment (I'm also considering a filmscanner right now.). We'll see... 🙂

 

[Rhoyle]

"They just are" isn't a very convincing answer, especially when you've got experience to the contrary.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

I think "they just are," translated, means, "I prefer metal reels, because the greater ease of use of plastic reels allows inexperienced photographers to develop their own pictures, thus undermining the perceived value of my art school degree."

 

[charjohncarter]

I didn't develop for years, when I went back to it , winding was the problem. You will get it, I got so I could do 35mm quickly, then when I tried 120 I was in the darkroom for half an hour. Now they both work smoothly.

 

[Colman]

Plastic reels are hard to load wet: metal reels are allegedly better.

 

[Keith]

I did end up getting a Patterson tank and it was much, much easier. I did a couple more rolls and am very happy with the results--another Delta, and a Tri-X.

I told a "serious" photographer friend that I'd switched to plastic reels, and she said "metal reels are better." Why?, I asked. "They just are." 🙄

The whole "they just are" theory about metal reels being better puzzles me. I used Paterson plastic reels happily until peer pressure drove me to try steel reels. I practised loading them until I thought I had my technique perfect and had processed about five rolls with no problems at all then one day I damaged a film and that was it ... back to the plastic reels.

It's not hard to make sure they're dry before you use them either ... a hair dryer will ensure that!

 

[oftheherd]

Plastic reels are hard to load wet: metal reels are allegedly better.

I doubt metal reels are easier to load wet either. I guess I must have tried it at some point, but I don't remember if I did.

Metal reels are easier to dry. In fact, just a vigorous shaking will get most of the water off. A slight film of dampness won't matter much. Water drops would. Dry, plastic is usually easier to load as long as they are working properly.

So, just because they are isn't the answer either. I can't believe the OP's friend couldn't articulate a better answer than that. That wasn't so professional imho. 😛

 

[kaiyen]

When people say that steel reels can be loaded wet, I doubt that anyone means that you should dunk them in water, leave them 100% soaking, then try to put some film on them 🙂. But you give them a good shake, and you can load right into them. I have tried this once with 35mm and it was quite hard - that long of a roll and it just starts to swell and stick and you begin to wonder if you're taking off some emulsion. But 120 is fine. If I have a lot of 120 to do, I'll use both plastic and metal and eventually end up doing 5, 6, 7 tanks of metal because I run out of plastic reels.

Having said that, there are some plastic reels where the film practically falls onto them. The current Samigon ones at BH are like that. Big plastic feeder lip that makes loading of 135 and 120 incredibly easy.

Another reason why one might argue for metal (I'm going back/forth in this post) is that plastic can block developer contact in stand development sometimes. I have noticed a slight decrease in density sometimes at the edges. Only sometimes, and only on some rolls, so maybe it's a combination of several things. But maybe something to consider.

 

[bcostin]

I'm much happier with my plastic Paterson three-reel tank. I've never gotten along with metal reels; they always kink and bind on me, no matter how careful I am. Especially with 120 film. (And I use Kindermann reels, which are supposed to be pretty nice.) I'm sure I could manage with more practice but I haven't seen a good reason to switch. I use a changing bag to load my film, anyway, so damp reels would not be very practical no matter what they're made of.

I also have an older Johnson Universal tank that uses a plastic reel with spacers and no ball-bearings. I've successfully loaded it wet to flatten old curled negatives.

 

[JeffGreene]

....Having said that, there are some plastic reels where the film practically falls onto them. The current Samigon ones at BH are like that. Big plastic feeder lip that makes loading of 135 and 120 incredibly easy.
.....

I agree about the 120 reels with the large, flat feeder lip. I spent a very unpleasant hour and 1/2 trying to load an AB plastic reel without the lip. Part of the problem is my rheumatoid arthritis, but I eventually gave up, and have traded those reels to a friend for equivalent Samigon reels. For some reason, I find metal reels for 35MM to be easier. I have Hewes reels in 35MM and they work well. Can't say the same for their 120 reels.

Kaiyen: I also wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for your excellent development Wiki which helped me get back up to speed after many years absence a few years ago. You've developed a great reputation here in Southeast PA at the Chester County Camera Club as the source for people interested in getting back into or starting their own development. Great resoource!

 

[kaiyen]

Jeff,
Seriously? I have a reputation and it's not a bad one? 🙂

I didn't even know anyone read that! I wrote it up because, of course, I like to hear myself talk (or like to think that people read what I write...). I'm so, so glad that you found it useful.

I might go write some more! Nothing like having my ego boosted 🙂

allan

 

[ibcrewin]

I have metal reels because they were free.. I thing plastic reels rock. esp for 120. If I had the choice, i'd go plastic. Since I don't It's metal all the way.

 

[charjohncarter]

Thanks for the tip on the Samigon reels, Kaiyen. Do you know if they fit into Jobo tanks? Jeff is right about you being a resource. Thanks.

 

[kaiyen]

No - jobo takes jobo. But all paterson tanks will take the samigon ones.

 

[zgauthier]

I love hewes reels. The difference between those and any other reel I've used is incredible. I do have some plastic stuff, but I've standardized all my development using steel, so I'll stick with that. I honestly find 120 easier to load than 35. My right arm(and thumb...) has been in a cast for the past few weeks, and I managed to load a roll of 120 onto a noname steel reel the other day. I don't think I can do it with 35.