just got tons of 35mm, need a better SLR

bosco

#olympusboyz
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so i just got 20 rolls of 35mm off my friend for a super good price, i have a couple 35mm cameras (canonet ql17, olympus stylus epic, canon ae-1) but i only really use the canon ae-1 a lot.

i am looking to upgrade to different 35mm slr but i'm not sure what to get. i am definitely going to get the nikon 50mm f/1.8 afd but should i get the nikon f3 or f100?

probably going to be shooting lots of skating/bmx on it so a faster flash sync would help but autofocus doesn't really matter.

should i get one of those camera or a different one?
 
I know it doesn't look like much, but the Canon T90 is one helluva camera. Works with your existing FD glass as well.

Outside of that, the Nikon F series is highly regarded. I'm looking to pick up a F3 at some point to see for myself.
 
Since you're looking at Nikon film bodies I suggest you read this summary from Thom Hogan.

Is there any reason you specifically want the Nikkor 50/1.8 AFD? Since you already own Canon you might consider their excellent EF50/1.4. If your AE-1 is working fine, you're better off spending your money on lenses, in my opinion.

Not that I would put you off buying Nikon. Their film bodies are excellent (I have owned FM/FE bodies - which I can highly recommend - and currently use an F2 Photomic and a Nikkormat FTN, both of which are bulletproof).
 
Most SLRs, including Nikon's, were decent. I have a very solid FT-3, with sharp lenses such as the 85/2 and 35/2, wonderful for the street. Don't worry about the gear. The most important element is the 12 inches behind the camera -- your head. A good eye = good photos.
 
i was just thinking nikon cause im just not really into canon film bodies. i am looking at the nikon 50mm afd just because they are very cheap, there is an f100 for sale in my area @ $250. should i jump on that?

i like canon digital but i like nikon film.

thanks for the help everyone!
 
You're talking about spending $350 for something that is no better for your purpose, 125th sync instead of 60th (?). I'd get a canon fd 35mm f3.5 and get closer, and use the ql17 at a 500th for flash, though I'd prefer a Minolta Hi-Matic 9. An f100 and the af-d is worse imo.
 
i was just thinking nikon cause im just not really into canon film bodies. i am looking at the nikon 50mm afd just because they are very cheap, there is an f100 for sale in my area @ $250. should i jump on that?

i like canon digital but i like nikon film.

thanks for the help everyone!


No point in getting a Canon film body if you actually prefer Nikon and it's not like Nikon lenses are hard to find. I have to confess to not really liking Canon film bodies either.

The F100 sounds like an excellent choice though I think $250 is a little high ... I've seen them for $100 less than that.

I have an F6 and it's hard to imagine a more proficient film SLR ... the F100 is not that far behind it!
 
The F100 is a very nice autoexposure and autofocus film camera. If you don't need either of those, or simply prefer working with mechanically-operated cameras as I do, consider an FM2 or F2. The FM2 has a decent 1/200 flash sync and a long-lasting silicon photodiode light meter. The F2 is a tougher hunk of metal that can really take a beating, but it only has a 1/90 flash sync. If you want a working meter for an F2, be sure to get one with a DP-3 or DP-12 viewfinder, both of which have silicon photodiode meters. The FM2 and F2 are terrific cameras, fantastically fun to use and would likely last you a lifetime.
 
Just noting he has an ae-1.

🙂


I had one of those for years and it was a great camera but never really tried anything else so stuck with it and it never let me down.

Personally I'd have an OM any time over any other SLR ... but he doesn't seem interested in that option! 😀
 
I had one of those for years and it was a great camera but never really tried anything else so stuck with it and it never let me down.

Personally I'd have an OM any time over any other SLR ... but he doesn't seem interested in that option! 😀

That's my opinion of the ae-1 also. I don't see much functional difference in this instance, and the ae-1 is a decent camera. He could probably get a vitomatic IIa with an ultron for 350 bucks... Not that I'm suggesting that, just saying.

😉
 
Get a Nikon FE. Small like a Leica, 250 flash synch (I think) Top speed is 1/4000. I have the FM and love it, but you'll need fast AE, so it's the FE for you. KEH has lots of manual focus lenses. 50mm f2 will cost you about $50. My FM cost me $54 at KEH.
 
Get a Nikon FE. Small like a Leica, 250 flash synch (I think) Top speed is 1/4000. I have the FM and love it, but you'll need fast AE, so it's the FE for you. KEH has lots of manual focus lenses. 50mm f2 will cost you about $50. My FM cost me $54 at KEH.

The FE only goes to 1/1000th I believe. The FE2 goes to 1/4000th. They cost more as well.
 
Just a note...20 rolls isn't exactly what is called tons of film, so I'd say - buy Nikon if you want but keept it under control. At least, I'd burn all 20 rolls using one body-one lens combo and then decide if I go farther into system, buying more lenses etc.

>i am looking to upgrade to different 35mm slr but i'm not sure what to get.

Once you define what you miss in your current setup, the same moment you'll have candidates. Canon or Nikon or Olympus or Pentax doesn't matter, you need either particular lens or body/system feature. Don't populate army of gear fondlers!
 
Consider a Nikon F90x also known as N90s
I bought mine in great condition for £30 and it will do most of what an F100 will do ! 1/8000 top speed and spot metering with 1/250 flash synch !
 
Bosco -

If you'll be shooting a lot of skating/BMX I would recommend you consider an AF body. I used to shoot pool/ramp skating and velodrome bike racing, and AF can make a big difference in the number of "keeper" shots you get. I have an F100 and it's my only Nikon AF body now - light weight, great meter and AF, 1/250 flash sync and up to 4.5 frames/sec (5 fps with the add-on battery pack). The Nikon Speedlight flash system is outstanding and the F100 will accept just about any AI, AIS, AF, AF-D or AF-G lens made.

The great thing about the Nikons is that you can also use AF or AF-D lenses on the older manual-focus bodies like any of the FM or FE series, F3, F2a or F2AS, and many other AF and MF bodies. The F100 will also take many Nikon manual-focus lenses (AI and later), which are plentiful on the used market and not very expensive for the most part. If you get a digital Nikon SLR later you can still use many of these lenses.

If you decide to go with a manual-focus body, the FM, FM2, FE, FE2 are small, light and rugged, the F3 has a few quirks but is a professional-grade body with a great meter, and the F2's are all awesome.

But don't take my word for it, I just picked-up a clean Pentax Spotmatic with some nice smooth Takumar lenses for a bargain and can't wait to see how the shots turn out...

Cheers!
 
If you'll be shooting a lot of skating/BMX I would recommend you consider an AF body. I used to shoot pool/ramp skating and velodrome bike racing, and AF can make a big difference in the number of "keeper" shots you get.

This is interesting note and probably also related to focal length used. With wide and superwide lenses, manual focusing works like a treat. With tele's and long zooms AF could be a saver.

In some cases Canonet or other leaf shutter cameras can be very useful in skateparks to use with fill flash, as long as focal length is matching vision of photographer.

I have an F100 and it's my only Nikon AF body now - light weight, great meter and AF, 1/250 flash sync and up to 4.5 frames/sec (5 fps with the add-on battery pack).

Honestly, this days it sounds like "entry level DSLR" unless it's paid shoot - but there also is competition and use of film has to have ground, not just because of passion. I mean mostly those 5fps bursts. With planned exposures sometimes a roll or two per hour is enough.
 
I love my F100 and highly suggest you buy one. I've had the F6, the best, and the F100 is 95% of the F6. There's a couple things to watch out for, the early F100's had a spindly rewind spool fork which sometimes broke, it is pointy compared to the later squared off model, which is stronger. Also, some of them, maybe the early ones too, had a covering that got worn or mushy over time. If the one you've seen for $250 has neither of these problems, a fair price should be $200.
 
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