Terrence
Established
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I bought one on impulse about 2 months ago. The shutter was stuck and it took a bit of CLA to clear it. It appears to be working great now, though I have to tweak the rangefinder a bit before it's ready for it's first roll of film.
After reading all of your comments concerning this camera I'm eager to try it out!
After reading all of your comments concerning this camera I'm eager to try it out!
raid
Dad Photographer
Using the S2 resulted in excessive GAS for me. After just a few months, I now have seven different Konica RF cameras. The lenses are superb and the camera built is rock solid. If this line of Konica cameras only had exchangeable lenses, then it would have been more efficient for travel and so on.
conradyiu
closer
Which would you pick within S, S2 and S3?
raid
Dad Photographer
Conrad,
I would pick the S2.
The S may have quality control problems and the S3 is fully automatic exposure.
I would pick the S2.
The S may have quality control problems and the S3 is fully automatic exposure.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
I agree with Raid; go with the S2.
It's a great camera for little money.
Chris
It's a great camera for little money.
Chris
jody36
Well-known
Love my S2 and own an S3 as well if I could only have one would be the S2. I have lots of rangefinders no leicas though and think the S2 is the most solid built and dependable of them. Have most of the Yashicas and they are ascetically pleasing but not as durable as the konica. I kept one on my fire truck for a while so I could use on calls.
R
ruben
Guest
Ok, if this thread is being recalled I will have to repent for a sin I made to this extraordinary camera I got at such a good health.
I simply went mad looking for the built in hood, up to the point that I started to disassemble the lens from the front.... Yeap I kinow, 20 lashes to my account at the sky.
This brought immediately to a cut of the old wires leading to the forefront light metering cell and therefore the "auto" became "manual only". Yeap I know, another 20 lashes to my account.
At that stage since the camera was not totally lost I decided to stop any further actions and reassembled it. But I put it aside, in a box. (5 lashes ?).
Lately, my interest aroused again and another Konica Auto S2 in much worse exterior shape arrived. With its help I hope to be able to learn about the connections and soldier again the electric cables and thus put the camera back to use.
Besides that I black painted top and bottom chromes, but of course good dids don't count too much these days.
Cheers,
Ruben
Sandstrom
Newbie
Oh Ruben- you couldn't resist dissecting your S2 could you?I too love my S2, the ease of use and quality of images is unbelievable. Even though you probably can see this now from our second S2 they hood surrounds the outside front of the lens and is retained by a thing (filter like) ring. A previous owner must have removed it and never put it back.
Please don't vivisect your Konicas again, I will sacrifice my hood if it will quell further temptation...
Brian
R
ruben
Guest
...........
Brian
Nope, it is in my veins. Disassembling is a feature I carry from childhood. I loved guns. And whenever I got one as present I used to hide myself behind the sofa and start trying to disassembling it....
It is a kind of curiousity excess.
As for cameras, I disassemble in the same compulsionary way when they have something not working. Most of the times the problem biggens, some times I am lucky.
For the last seven years I work in a printshop with a lot of machines. I have seen the bosses with a clear cut approach to fixing technical problems with the machines:
a) First you relax your nerves through sending some dirty shouts
b) You don't do anything until you learn what is the problem
c) Until then, you look and look and look.
d) Once you have learned the problem you decide if it is up to you to fix, or a more professional technician is required.
Cheers,
Ruben
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btgc
Veteran
Oh, finally I ended where Ruben is - my Auto S2 is meterless now. I just opened shutter to wash slow speeds escapement and wire broke off meter cell. I could solder it back though decided to leave it off for a while - to see if washing effect is permanent. And I don't rely on built-in meters of old manual cameras. Maybe later I'll put it back, just to have things as they were intended. But not now. Beauty of KAS2 don't depend on meter.
Lukino
new to rf
Hi Ruben, if you happen to find any resource about Auto S2 electrical part, can you please share it?
I'm trying to restore an Auto S1.6 which, as jody36 pointed out, is probably the same camera with a different lens, but some cables are cut and other are missing. Pictures of the open body would be very useful too, so I can figure out what is missing.
I'm trying to restore an Auto S1.6 which, as jody36 pointed out, is probably the same camera with a different lens, but some cables are cut and other are missing. Pictures of the open body would be very useful too, so I can figure out what is missing.
R
ruben
Guest
In my camera no electrical part is missing. Just the two cables (plus and minus I assume) have been cutted from the front cell. Now, from here there are several minor but annoying problems:
a) which cable should be soldiere to which side of the cell ? this in principle should be no problem and either doesn't matter or you can be able to test by experience. But then comes problem b)
b) the original cables (perhaps wires in better English) are very short, even to soldier them back out of knowledge, not to speak about temp arrangements to test who is who. Therefore I should find small additional wires to soldier to the original ones and then the job will be very feasible. But then comes problem c)
c) There is no much free space out there inside the compound, and therefore the additional cables should be closely thin to the original ones. Now start walking around your house looking what device are you going to dismantle in order to find such thin cables. Of course that our friends livin in big cities will have no problem to make a short trip to the electricity supplys quarter of their city, but those of us living in the desert have it more difficult.
Finnally the soldiering activity should be performed taking greatest care of the lens, I think dismounting should be done.
Cheers,
Ruben
btgc
Veteran
Idea, idea! Computer has some cables inside - should work
But then comes problem d)
d) We will not have messages and pictures from Ruben, so at this point I'm retracting idea about cannibalizing PC.
Ruben, you really can make a day, as some RFFer expressed his feelings.
cweg
Well-known
My KAS2 doesen't work yet too. The Shutter stucks always after a few days, but that's not the main problem. My question is, if the Aperturering has to click in every f-stop or doesn't it engage in your KAS2's too?
btgc
Veteran
On KAS series aperture ring doesn't have click stops.
In manual mode meter can point to position between whole aperture values, so it's logical that any aperture in working range can be selected. In Auto mode camera also can set values between fstops. So there were no reason to implement clickstops for aperture - this is good sample of logical user interface.
Probably from implementation aspect this simplified implementation of Auto mode.
In fact, well designed cameras have at least one stepless exposure variable. Let's look at Yashica Electro - aperture has clickstops, while stepless shutter can work at any speed, thus achieving best possible exposure (at least theoretically). Lynx series have mechanical (thus - fixed speeds) and stepless aperture, just like a KAS.
Simpler cameras with limited aperture and speeds are easier to use when speed/aperture settings are clickable. Just remember few combos which work for you (I mean, general user) and stick to them. This is minor step to automation. Less decisions, less fiddling, more pictures.
In manual mode meter can point to position between whole aperture values, so it's logical that any aperture in working range can be selected. In Auto mode camera also can set values between fstops. So there were no reason to implement clickstops for aperture - this is good sample of logical user interface.
Probably from implementation aspect this simplified implementation of Auto mode.
In fact, well designed cameras have at least one stepless exposure variable. Let's look at Yashica Electro - aperture has clickstops, while stepless shutter can work at any speed, thus achieving best possible exposure (at least theoretically). Lynx series have mechanical (thus - fixed speeds) and stepless aperture, just like a KAS.
Simpler cameras with limited aperture and speeds are easier to use when speed/aperture settings are clickable. Just remember few combos which work for you (I mean, general user) and stick to them. This is minor step to automation. Less decisions, less fiddling, more pictures.
Lukino
new to rf
You've better luck than me, in my camera both wires to the cell are missing, so I don't know where they have to go. Also others are probably missing, I can see no wires to the battery check button for example... Now I've fond this, which is a big help to begin:
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/13273.html?1221581331
About your points:
a)my electronics knowledge is a little rusted, but I seem to remember that cds cells have no wiring preference
b) don't know about original wires length, not having them :-( but if you unscrew front element lens there is probably enough space to work
c) it is probably better, if you need to extend wires, to unscrew entire lens and focus element from the body, but this requires removing the camera leatherette.
Dismantling is certainly better than soldier over the lens... but I think you're one who love to look inside your toys, aren't you?
I am as you can see in this thread
If you need, I can send you diagrams I'm drawing while taking things apart, not much but hope can be useful
racoll
Well-known
I found a Montgomery Ward am551 on the big auction site for $5! For those that don't know, the am551 is the Konica Auto S2 branded by Konica for Montgomery Ward to sell with their own labels. Aside from different markings, it's the exact same camera, but lack of familiarity on the part of others allowed me to buy it for $5 in near-perfect condition. I've just about finished a roll of film in it and am eager to see how it turns out.
R
ruben
Guest
Here is the Zabritsky point to confess that in these sort of lens dismantling I am always afraid of altering the accurate positions when re-screwing.
Hmmm....,
Now, Lukino if you don't have wires at all, i, e, a minimal starting point, why do you insist with an f/1.6 instead of an Auto S2 with and f/1.8 - or if you want go lower, start CLA a Yashica Lynx 1.4 (in this case choose the older type with the dot and the black pointer on the viewfinder) ?
Cheers,
Ruben
Lukino
new to rf
The front element is a single block containing all the lenses (see photo) so you don't have to worry about dismantling the lens, just unscrew the black barrel you see under the name plate. It is tight, can be hard if your finger is big, but no way to damage the lens.
And for the why... because it's fun! It's not like I really need this camera or plan to sell it repaired, just that I have a nice broken toy and want to fix it! Will be happy to put my hand on Lynx 14 after this, I lost an auction for one just two weeks ago (my budget is EXTREMELY low)
