charjohncarter
Veteran
use a rollei 66, or mamiya rb or rz screen cut down.
works beautifully.
also for low speed handheld with a rolleiflex. Set the self timer for 1 or 2 seconds so there is no shutter trigger movement and brace the camera against something solid. can get away with 1/4 sec repeatedly like that
I've done that, but haven't for a while. Good point, thanks for the memory jog.
RichW
Established
I went out shooting after dark in London, with two cameras, my Yashica TLR and my Zeiss medium format folder (see sig). The light in some areas was as low as EV1 (I estimated - I don't carry a meter), I instantly realised it was near impossible to focus with my Yashica in that light (looking down at the waist level finder) and promptly packed it away.
I then continued on with the Zeiss and used it for handheld shots as slow as 1/4 of a second, (f/2.8 ISO 1600). Now it felt pretty steady but I have no idea of the results yet as I haven't had the film processed, it could be a disaster
R
I then continued on with the Zeiss and used it for handheld shots as slow as 1/4 of a second, (f/2.8 ISO 1600). Now it felt pretty steady but I have no idea of the results yet as I haven't had the film processed, it could be a disaster
R
Photo_Smith
Well-known
Radical! Describe your development for Delta 25.8K?
Sorry didn't see this. I use 24mins in Microphen with a min initial agitation and 10 secs per min after that.
The main issue I find is exposure, for most pictorial images I use the measure the shadow then stop down to pin the emerging detail into the toe of the curve.
However pushing film and the often total lack of shadow detail makes that method hard, if you're able to find a mid tone exposure is easier and sometimes I go for the highlights and open up slightly.
Testing and experimentation will let you see if the contrast goes to high, Delta 3200 has a long tonal scale (read flat) in normal light; that makes it a great candidate for pushing.
Harry Caul
Well-known
In your situation you'll need not just a fast lens, but one that is fast and sharp wide open. In that case I would highly agree with others who have recommended the Plaubel Makina 67 or 670 (or the wide variants). They have much more modern lens coatings than most of the other options mentioned. It's my go-to MF camera and I regularly shoot it at 1/15th handheld... sometimes even 1/4 if I'm feeling cocky. Here is a bar shot... I think 1/8th or 1/5th with TMAX 400. Any softness is coming from subject movement. It's heavy as I'll get out, but the Makina is a work of art. Easily one of the most compact and compelling >6x6 MFs every produced.

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