S
Skinny McGee
Guest
Ok, I havee been reading all this stuff on them. I am looking to buy now. any thoughts please share them.
M2? M3? M4? M6?
- Thread starter Skinny McGee
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Pherdinand
the snow must go on
Yep, M6. But go for the Mamiya not the Leica 😉
Sonnar Brian
Established
Do you want a built in Meter?
IF( METER) THEN
BUY= M6
ELSE IF( LENS .LE. 35) THEN
BUY= M2
ELSE
BUY= M3
END IF
Been working in the lab today. Needed some FORTRAN.
IF( METER) THEN
BUY= M6
ELSE IF( LENS .LE. 35) THEN
BUY= M2
ELSE
BUY= M3
END IF
Been working in the lab today. Needed some FORTRAN.
FrankS
Registered User
Brian, you sound like a computer code writer! 🙂
I've never seen this put so succinctly. It should be saved somewhere because the "Which Leica should I buy?" question comes up so regularly.
It could use another line:
IF fantastic deal, THEN M4-2/M4-P
I've never seen this put so succinctly. It should be saved somewhere because the "Which Leica should I buy?" question comes up so regularly.
It could use another line:
IF fantastic deal, THEN M4-2/M4-P
Last edited:
Traut
Well-known
E=M<6
E=enjoyment
IMHO
E=enjoyment
IMHO
FrankS
Registered User
E=m<7
Imho
Imho
Sonnar Brian
Established
IF( METER) THEN
BUY= M6
ELSE IF( M4PCOST .LE. 700) Then
BUY=M4P
ELSE IF( M42COST .LE. 650) Then
BUY=M42
ELSE IF( LENS .LE. 35) Then
BUY= M2
ELSE
BUY= M3
END IF
BUY= M6
ELSE IF( M4PCOST .LE. 700) Then
BUY=M4P
ELSE IF( M42COST .LE. 650) Then
BUY=M42
ELSE IF( LENS .LE. 35) Then
BUY= M2
ELSE
BUY= M3
END IF
Last edited by a moderator:
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
An M6 if measuring light makes you queasy,
And an M2/3/4 if you find eye-metering easy.
Sorry about the lousy rhyme,
Just got very little time... 🙂
And an M2/3/4 if you find eye-metering easy.
Sorry about the lousy rhyme,
Just got very little time... 🙂
Sonnar Brian
Established
A good night of sleep and the mind-meld with the maniac computer is broken.
A couple of factors are important. When I worked at a camera shop and a customer asked what camera to buy, the two questions I asked where what kind of pictures do you like to take and how much do you want to spend. The first does not apply here, the second does. The questions here are "what is more important to you on a camera: Meter; ease-of-use; quality- especially the viewfinder; cosmetic condition" and "What Lens focal length do you use most often; wide-angle or normal/Telephoto?"
I use fast normals and portrait length telephoto's, and I am comfortable using a handheld meter. For me the M3 is an easy choice. I got a great deal on an M2, spent a lot of time waiting for it to get parts on a repair, and it is a fine camera for the times when I prefer a 35mm focal length lens. But I normally keep a 50 on it, and do not use it as much as the M3. I bought a spare take-up spool for the M3/M2, and keep it pre-threaded in the bag. This makes for drop in loading.
Many people prefer the slotted take-up spool of the M4 and later cameras. I am used to Knob rewind from the Retina's, but many people like crank-rewind. If these appeal to you, the original M4 has the no-expense-spared viewfinder equal to the M2 and MP. It is also the most expensive of the "original" Leica M's.
The M4-2 and M4P are basically M6's without meters. They introduced cost-cutting measures taken in the 1970's to reduce manufacture time and cost. The most annoying problem was a new design for the viewfinder that introduced the "RF Patch Flare" problem that stayed on until the M7 and MP.
The M6 adds the TTL meter. If you want a built in meter, and do not want to spend the money on a new camera, it is your only "Real" choice. The M5 also offers a meter, but expect it to require a rebuild and probably a new CDS cell. For ~$1,000 the M6 is a lot less than an MP or M7.
So Okay, how much do you want to spend, what focal length do you use most, and when can I expect you to join the M3 club -I mean do you need a meter?-
A couple of factors are important. When I worked at a camera shop and a customer asked what camera to buy, the two questions I asked where what kind of pictures do you like to take and how much do you want to spend. The first does not apply here, the second does. The questions here are "what is more important to you on a camera: Meter; ease-of-use; quality- especially the viewfinder; cosmetic condition" and "What Lens focal length do you use most often; wide-angle or normal/Telephoto?"
I use fast normals and portrait length telephoto's, and I am comfortable using a handheld meter. For me the M3 is an easy choice. I got a great deal on an M2, spent a lot of time waiting for it to get parts on a repair, and it is a fine camera for the times when I prefer a 35mm focal length lens. But I normally keep a 50 on it, and do not use it as much as the M3. I bought a spare take-up spool for the M3/M2, and keep it pre-threaded in the bag. This makes for drop in loading.
Many people prefer the slotted take-up spool of the M4 and later cameras. I am used to Knob rewind from the Retina's, but many people like crank-rewind. If these appeal to you, the original M4 has the no-expense-spared viewfinder equal to the M2 and MP. It is also the most expensive of the "original" Leica M's.
The M4-2 and M4P are basically M6's without meters. They introduced cost-cutting measures taken in the 1970's to reduce manufacture time and cost. The most annoying problem was a new design for the viewfinder that introduced the "RF Patch Flare" problem that stayed on until the M7 and MP.
The M6 adds the TTL meter. If you want a built in meter, and do not want to spend the money on a new camera, it is your only "Real" choice. The M5 also offers a meter, but expect it to require a rebuild and probably a new CDS cell. For ~$1,000 the M6 is a lot less than an MP or M7.
So Okay, how much do you want to spend, what focal length do you use most, and when can I expect you to join the M3 club -I mean do you need a meter?-
S
Skinny McGee
Guest
The M3 or the M2 are my main cameras that I am looking at. One thng is most of the one the ones that I can afford do not have lens I was think about getting an adaptor and using my thread mount lens for now until I can afford an m lens... i perfer 50mm lenses.everything I have now is prewar and I enjoy them. Do the Thread lens work good with the adaptor on the M's?
What is a good price on an M2 body? what is good price on a M3 body? Which has the better range/viewfinder? I think there is a good deal on an M2....
Feed me knowledge
What is a good price on an M2 body? what is good price on a M3 body? Which has the better range/viewfinder? I think there is a good deal on an M2....
Feed me knowledge
tajart
ancien
one other little difference between the m2 &m3 is the film counter- m3 has the little window and automatically resets when removing/reloading; the m2 film counter wheel is reset by the user.
the m2 can take tom's rapidwinder; i don't think he has one for the m3.
of course the viewfinder frame lines are different and i believe the magnification is different but i don't remember the numbers.
and when i graduated from my iif to the m3 i picked up a couple of adapters for my 35 summaron and collapsible summicron thread mount lenses, and they performed flawlessly, so i wouldn't worry about using older lenses on a newer body. i've heard it rumored that some of the well known photographers become so attached to specific lenses that they bring them forward to newer camera bodies. and that makes a lot of sense because afterall, its the lens that is translating the image to film-even though it is the total package in the hands combined with the eye of the artist.
the m2 can take tom's rapidwinder; i don't think he has one for the m3.
of course the viewfinder frame lines are different and i believe the magnification is different but i don't remember the numbers.
and when i graduated from my iif to the m3 i picked up a couple of adapters for my 35 summaron and collapsible summicron thread mount lenses, and they performed flawlessly, so i wouldn't worry about using older lenses on a newer body. i've heard it rumored that some of the well known photographers become so attached to specific lenses that they bring them forward to newer camera bodies. and that makes a lot of sense because afterall, its the lens that is translating the image to film-even though it is the total package in the hands combined with the eye of the artist.
johne
Well-known
Brother McGee [any kin to "Fibber"?]
I was in that bar when the horse came in. What happened shocked me. I asked the barkeep "Did you just ask that horse if he had a long face?"
He replied, "I can't say neigh."
Johne 🙄
BTW, go with the M2 and a 35mm
John
I was in that bar when the horse came in. What happened shocked me. I asked the barkeep "Did you just ask that horse if he had a long face?"
He replied, "I can't say neigh."
Johne 🙄
BTW, go with the M2 and a 35mm
John
Last edited:
Sonnar Brian
Established
I paid under $700 for my M3DS, M3SS, and M2 for the body and CLA. They are all in EX condition, a couple of pecks, dings, brassing top plate. All are now in perfect working condition with crystal clear VF/RF.
If you can get a "great" price on the M2, go for it. You can try it and always resell it if you want an M3. Given that your primary lens is 50mm, the question for you to answer is "what direction will you go in next?" If it is toward 35mm, the M2 opens up a lot of options. The cost of a Canon LTM 35mm F2.8 and the M adapter is $150~$200. If you are going to go for the 85mm and up focal length, get the M3. Also a lot of great 85~90 LTM lenses that can be had inexpensively.
All things being equal in terms of condition, the M3 finder has the edge on the M2. The M2, and all the cameras in the M series that followed, had finders that were less expensive alternatives to the M3. The M2 finder is better than my Canon 7 and Nikon SP. It is #2.
If you can get a "great" price on the M2, go for it. You can try it and always resell it if you want an M3. Given that your primary lens is 50mm, the question for you to answer is "what direction will you go in next?" If it is toward 35mm, the M2 opens up a lot of options. The cost of a Canon LTM 35mm F2.8 and the M adapter is $150~$200. If you are going to go for the 85mm and up focal length, get the M3. Also a lot of great 85~90 LTM lenses that can be had inexpensively.
All things being equal in terms of condition, the M3 finder has the edge on the M2. The M2, and all the cameras in the M series that followed, had finders that were less expensive alternatives to the M3. The M2 finder is better than my Canon 7 and Nikon SP. It is #2.
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