Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I like most things about this camera. There are a couple things I don't like. It takes an almost imperceptibly light touch on the shutter button to activate the meter. That's not the problem. So here's the problem:
Having activated the meter, it then takes another imperceptibly light further touch to fire the shutter.
That's it. That's the problem. I mean, with a Leica M7 or a Nikon, I know when I'm about to fire the shutter. With the Mamiya, I might think I'm taking a light reading, and I get a picture--not the one I wanted.
Oh, one other thing: It's hard to see the exposure display down at the bottom. But I can live with that.
Is this shutter release action normal on the mamiya 7ii?
Having activated the meter, it then takes another imperceptibly light further touch to fire the shutter.
That's it. That's the problem. I mean, with a Leica M7 or a Nikon, I know when I'm about to fire the shutter. With the Mamiya, I might think I'm taking a light reading, and I get a picture--not the one I wanted.
Oh, one other thing: It's hard to see the exposure display down at the bottom. But I can live with that.
Is this shutter release action normal on the mamiya 7ii?
buggz
Member
Can't say for certain, I just got mine.
But from my quick tests, it seemed okay.
I now have film loaded and will hopefully be shooting this weekend.
But from my quick tests, it seemed okay.
I now have film loaded and will hopefully be shooting this weekend.
rjstep3
Established
It is a fairly hair trigger I suppose - you will get used to it. The trouble is that there is no sort of back pressure to let you know the next micro-ounce of pressure will fire the thing.
It is like everything - you'll get used to it.
Apart from the depth of field limitation, it is a great camera. You'll need to get used to the light meter too - find out exactly where the patch is (under and to the right of the focusing patch).
I hope I haven't put you off!
rjstep3
It is like everything - you'll get used to it.
Apart from the depth of field limitation, it is a great camera. You'll need to get used to the light meter too - find out exactly where the patch is (under and to the right of the focusing patch).
I hope I haven't put you off!
rjstep3
buggz
Member
Hi,
What do you mean by depth of field limitation?
Is the meter pattern location true for every body?
I would guess to a certain degree?
And that the quick test of this, would be for a uniform lighted surface, and where the highest reading is found, is the spot?
What do you mean by depth of field limitation?
Is the meter pattern location true for every body?
I would guess to a certain degree?
And that the quick test of this, would be for a uniform lighted surface, and where the highest reading is found, is the spot?
BLKRCAT
75% Film
A little trick that I came up with on my 7 to prevent this is to engage the darkslide. my M7 won't fire the shutter with the darkslide engaged but you can still meter. Likewise you can just not advance your frame until you are ready to take the image. My M7 also meters just fine uncocked.
I don't find though that the M7 has as light of a trigger as say my XA, which is known for a very soft shutter release. I have never had a problem tripping the shutter accidently.
I don't find though that the M7 has as light of a trigger as say my XA, which is known for a very soft shutter release. I have never had a problem tripping the shutter accidently.
aizan
Veteran
that's normal, if irritating. once you learn how little pressure it takes, there will be fewer accidents. it helps reduce camera shake, so it's got that going for it. the shutter lock is your best friend, and if worst comes to worst, you can meter with a handheld meter.
BLKRCAT
75% Film
I think he may mean that the lenses all have a very broad DOF and some people can have a hard time getting that "MF Look". I know I have a hard time sometimes with that.
Just gotta get close and shoot wide open.
edge100
Well-known
I actually think it's the opposite problem.
The 80 f/4 has the DoF of a 40 f/2 (roughly speaking) on 35mm. That's fairly shallow (2.25ft DoF at 10ft @ f/4). However, you're at f/4, which means that this shallow DoF doesn't come with a whole lot of speed; that is, you only get f/4 light gathering.
In response to the OP, the shutter release is certainly more sensitive than my Leicas, but I don't find it overly difficult to use. Perhaps I've gotten used to it, though.
BLKRCAT
75% Film
Valid point. Being used to shooting with my 50 F1.1 in 35mm and the 105 2.4 with my Pentax maybe I'm just spoiled because I consider the DOF with the 80 F4 to be fairly broad.
edge100
Well-known
True; it is, relative to what is achievable on 35mm (and, to be fair, on many other MF cameras).
rjstep3
Established
That's what I meant - plus the markings on the barrel are not really all that reliable. They are technically accurate, but you need to allow for two fewer stops either side in my experience. This is nothing like a 35mm camera where you can go around using the marks on the barrel and still get acceptable results - you really need to focus on SOMETHING, and expect that other bits will be dramatically out of focus.
The light meter patch needs to be located, each camera is slightly different (apparently) - and it is certainly not the same as the focusing patch. Given that this is a spot meter, this is important!
rjstep3
BLKRCAT
75% Film
Knock on wood I haven't had any problems just assuming that the RF patch is where the spot meter is aimed, give or take 5 or 10% of the size of the patch.
Being that I shoot an M5 primarily in 35mm I'm used to the idea of the spot meter in the center of the frame. I just treat the M7 the same way I shoot with the M5.
Being that I shoot an M5 primarily in 35mm I'm used to the idea of the spot meter in the center of the frame. I just treat the M7 the same way I shoot with the M5.
rjstep3
Established
You can easily test the thing by pointing it at a light bulb and noting where the metering patch is located. Using my 80mm lens, it is the same size as the focusing patch, but directly below and to the right. I understand that this can vary from camera to camera. Given that it is a fairly sensitive spot meter, it is worth getting it right, especially with slide film. If you are using negs, probably no need for a meter and just go with sunny 16.
rjstep3
buggz
Member
This is great information!
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
That is exactly right. There's no tactile feedback to tell you it's about to trip. I did much better last weekend, though, with the shutter release. Still squinting into the finder for a glimpse of the exposure readout!
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I may be bonding with the M7II
I may be bonding with the M7II
Making progress here. Had a good day, using the M7II mostly on a tripod plus some handheld shots. Still having trouble trying to see the exposure readout. But no problems at all with accidental shutter releases!
Now I will develop the film and make some prints. I've had it up for sale more than once. I shot some Tri-X and some Delta Pro 400. So we will see. It may be a keeper after all. I'll post them if it's anything I like.
I may be bonding with the M7II
Making progress here. Had a good day, using the M7II mostly on a tripod plus some handheld shots. Still having trouble trying to see the exposure readout. But no problems at all with accidental shutter releases!
Now I will develop the film and make some prints. I've had it up for sale more than once. I shot some Tri-X and some Delta Pro 400. So we will see. It may be a keeper after all. I'll post them if it's anything I like.