My new Mamiya C33 arrived :D

T

thomob

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so as the title suggests, my Mamiya C33 arrived today 😀

Its in perfect condition, looks like its hardly been used. The seller gave me 4 expired (but still good) b&w rolls and 5 (no good) colour rolls to test the camera out with. Along with an oldschool camera bag, case for the camera, strap, basic tripod, flash cord and lens caps.

It feels great in my hands[, i really like the weight, it feels indestructible!

I am going to test it out this weekend and i have a portraiture job this weekend which i will use it for aswell 😀

Thanks to the people who helped me decide to buy this camera, i dont think i will regret it he he 🙂

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enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!!

enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!!

congratulations and great choice!!!

among your expermenting, try racking the lens/bellows all the way forward and playing with the close focus possibilities of this camera.

you will need to watch for parallax correction...here is one of the places where the instruction manual and/or a more tlr-wise rff'er can expain it better...

enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!!
happy trails,
tag
 
Parallax correction for close ups: If you can find one, get a paramender - any of the three types. I have the cheapest one, which is the most commonly available. The more expensive models are more convenient, but the cheap one works fine for me. While you’re looking, or if you’re not sure you even want one, there’s a free way to do it. The height of a 35mm film canister is the same height by which you need to raise the camera to put the taking lens in the place of the viewing lens. A tripod is necessary, and a crank would be very helpful, but you just raise the tripod shaft the height of the film canister, tighten, and shoot.

Enjoy the camera.
 
Nice trick with the canister, I'm gonna remember that one even though I don't need it right away.

Got me a C330f with 80/2.8 blue dot lens. The final design of this series, parallax correction built-in. Acquired it from a fellow RFF-er and will have 65, 135 and 180 lenses with it by the end of the month. Sold my M6 Classic 0.85 to finance it 😱

Very briefly had some issues when a friend of my fathers showed up with a Rolleiflex 3.5F that I always had wanted.

The Mamiya won. Rolleiflex is getting sold to help fathers friend out 😱
 
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Raising the camera only works with precision if your tripod is completely level...good enough for most general purposes but not for macro work or anything, esp. at wider apertures or other critical focus applications.

Nice camera!
 
woo. over the weekend i put a roll of expired (since 09 or 07) FP4+ through the mamiya.

was so beautiful to shoot with. and yes, i prefer shooting with it over the RZ67 Pro II.. it feels nicer and it has something else... hard to describe

i took some portraits and a couple of landscape (seascape even) with it and here they are:

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(dang, JUST missed the correct point of focus)

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and with this photo i noticed in the top left corner, some specks (i cloned them out of this image) .. so i checked the lens, and in the "taking" lens, looks to have some specks inside it, almost like iron filings... i have no idea what they could be or where they could of come from. i am able to heal them in photoshop but this isnt ideal obviously, so im wondering how i should go about getting it fixed?

here they are zoomed in.

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Black spots on the positive - probably some of the flocking inside the camera chamber falling off onto the film, blocking the light falling on the negative. Give the inside of the camera a light brushing with a very soft toothbrush, and a good blow out with the lens and back removed, to remove any loose fibres or dust.
 
If these specks are realy caused by debris in the lens then they are obiously somewhere in the middle of the lens near the diaphragma otherwise they couldn't be this sharply visible.

A possible cause could be i.e. graphite powder or metal particles migrating to there.

Only solution then would be to dismantle the lens and clean all glass surfaces.
 
Hi, glad to see that you have the camera and it works well.

As the guys have said the lens needs to be off the box and looked through with a good off centre light beam as it could well be in the glass space.

Also, though I have never had cause to do this, I believe that the lens can be switched round (by your camera specialist) i.e. top to bottom and bottom to top. So, ckeck both lenses carefully and the box. Strip it all down to it's 'boxers' and thoroughly search out and remove any debris.

Good luck.
 
thanks for the responses guys, i took the lens off again last night and had another look. The specks are actually inside the back lens element.

I have developed/scanned two rolls and so far no frames have been badly effected (that i can tell). So its not too much of a worry, although i will take it to a repairman to see how much it might cost to get it cleaned out.

On other sighting, the other day when i needed a long exposure i looked for the cable release point and it has actually been broken off. This is really annoying as I plan to use this in low light situations quite often.

Does anyone have any ideas of something i might be able to mockup or do to allow my camera to work with a cable release of some kind?

(you can see from the first image of the camera where the screw in point for the release is missing)
 
Great camera. I thought about trying to find one of those. Dust particles inside the lens will not show up as sharp shadows or light spots on the film. It's more likely that it is dirt or dust inside the camera settling on the film. Black spots are more likely dust or dirt that has settled on wet film while it's drying. I have had a lot of problems with that with one lab that I have used in the past. You might try looking at your negatives with a magnifying loop to see if you can see any dirt or spots on the film. - Jim
 
I'd hold for now on opening the lens and clean out the camera house first. Could be it hasn't been used for some time and some dust got in.

If the problem remains unaltered: take the lens off the camera, you can simply unscrew the rear element of the taking lens, these Mamiya lenses are built like LF lenses and can be serviced quite easily (save for the shutter!😱). Have a microfiber cloth and a blower at hand, try to blow off particles and else use the microfiber cloth very lightly and next the blower.

On some C-type lenses the front element can be unscrewed as well, to clean. When refitting, make sure the threads are clean from any metal debris, otherwise your problem will return over time with fresh metal particles!

Nice shots you got there, have some happy shooting!
 
thanks for the help again guys, I have found a guy who sells parts for the Mamiya (http://billrogers.com/) who is going to supply me with the whole shutter release unit for $20. Which is reasonable considering i cant find them anywhere else.

I havent taken the lens to any camera shop to quote on the cost of cleaning it out yet, but is it easy and safe enough to do it myself? The particles are in the "taking lens" not the "viewing lens". Are there any online walk throughs as to how to do it safely?

In other GREAT news. Today on going to one of my favorite second hand shops, i found a hand grip for the mamiya C cameras in the window without a price. After inspection and talking to the staff, he wasn't sure how much it was worth, so gave it to me for just $8.50 ($7.90 US)

Its in perfect condition and is great for added comfort in shooting and balance. Very happy with that cheap find 😀
 
Wow! Your C33 looks like she's spankin new.

I just found a C2 at the local Market and she looks like an ugly old relative of yours.

I've been working on her, stripping her down. I'm gonna pimp her out with red leather
and cheap jewelry for some street cred.

Mamiya's like being treated that way... lol

Actually the leather on these old Mamiya's are awful to remove. It's some kind of nasty black flaking paper glued on with shellac.

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She's about wearing me out I tell ya.
 
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