reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
Steve webOSUser's thread discussing Zorki.1's reminded me of a bit of a puzzlement I have sitting among my Zorkis.
Several-several years ago I bought a Zorki-Zorki.1b to add to my gaggle-gaggle of FSUs because, hey, a guy can't have toooo many FSUs.
At the time, I was searching serial numbers - looking for low serial numbers/older cameras. Just like humanoids, older is better ... #wink ... because there was more concentration on craftsmanship in the FSU camera building industry of the mid-50's than there was during the stamp-it-paint-it-ship-it mid-70's. That search yielded the afore-mentioned Zorki-Zorki.1b, serial #33795, for very decent money.
The camera arrived, I gave it a quick wipe off, dry fired it a few times and proceeded to load the first test roll ... with great effort. Once loaded, winding became difficult. So I unloaded, looked it over a little more, dry fired it again and again 20X and reloaded. Again, the goin' got tough. So tough, I felt the film tear. Ok, break out the screwdrivers. Tic, toc, tic, toc ... This is what I found.
Several-several years ago I bought a Zorki-Zorki.1b to add to my gaggle-gaggle of FSUs because, hey, a guy can't have toooo many FSUs.
At the time, I was searching serial numbers - looking for low serial numbers/older cameras. Just like humanoids, older is better ... #wink ... because there was more concentration on craftsmanship in the FSU camera building industry of the mid-50's than there was during the stamp-it-paint-it-ship-it mid-70's. That search yielded the afore-mentioned Zorki-Zorki.1b, serial #33795, for very decent money.
The camera arrived, I gave it a quick wipe off, dry fired it a few times and proceeded to load the first test roll ... with great effort. Once loaded, winding became difficult. So I unloaded, looked it over a little more, dry fired it again and again 20X and reloaded. Again, the goin' got tough. So tough, I felt the film tear. Ok, break out the screwdrivers. Tic, toc, tic, toc ... This is what I found.
- Wrong pressure plate. It should have a round pressure plate and springs. It had, uh, something else not round and not even FSU ... which was thrown and flown out the back door like a Frisbee and landed 40 yds. into the horse pasture where it remains to this day.
- Definitely old serial number, probably 1950 ... ish ... maybe?. Definitely old style tear-drop FED-like RF coupler. Definitely 1b flimsy body (3 screws in back). Definitely old style relief spring (FED-like.)
- It also has the brightest, clearest RF patch of anything I own and overall, a really clean camera. But then there's .....
- Shutter speeds? Shutter speed dial does not match a 1b (I think?). Though the shutter cocks and fires smoothly with a nice "schlep" sound, the dial reads B, 25, 50, 100, 250 and 500 when it should read Z, 20, 30, 40, 60, 100, 200 and 500. Right?
- Find [with luck] the appropriate round pressure plate, reassemble, ignore the shutter speeds and fire at will.
- Since the shutter is wrong, scrap the 1b project and use the shutter in another 1d I have waiting in the wings.
- Or ... ??? [insert your 2cents here]
Attachments
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Just to confirm. Zorki with pre 100000 SN are known, it is explained slightly bellow here.
They have round film plate.
http://rangefinder.ru/club/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13029
Last two comments showing it.
Also, from here:
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Зоркий_(фотоаппаратура)
Before 1954 sn was the actual count for the each made Zorki. After 54 - two first numbers are year.
Before 1955:
1/20, 1/30, 1/40, 1/60, 1/100, 1/200, 1/500 and Z.
In 1955 and after: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B.
So, yours is 33795 made from the first one.
I haunted one like yours while been under same illusion what the earlier is the better. Actually, it was worse than other two I previously restored (after 1955), so worse, I'm not even going to write here what I have done with it after I realized why it was sold as LNNU in 2015...
They have round film plate.
http://rangefinder.ru/club/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13029
Last two comments showing it.
Also, from here:
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Зоркий_(фотоаппаратура)
Before 1954 sn was the actual count for the each made Zorki. After 54 - two first numbers are year.
Before 1955:
1/20, 1/30, 1/40, 1/60, 1/100, 1/200, 1/500 and Z.
In 1955 and after: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B.
So, yours is 33795 made from the first one.
I haunted one like yours while been under same illusion what the earlier is the better. Actually, it was worse than other two I previously restored (after 1955), so worse, I'm not even going to write here what I have done with it after I realized why it was sold as LNNU in 2015...
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
The serial number suggests 1950, based on passports etc seen.
Regards, David
The serial number suggests 1950, based on passports etc seen.
Regards, David
nukecoke
⚛Yashica
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I have your pressure plate.
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
Ko.Fe. & Hughes, thanks for great info and links. Good confirmation of what I had suspected/assumed.
["I haunted one like yours while been under same illusion what the earlier is the better. Actually, it was worse than other two I previously restored (after 1955), so worse, I'm not even going to write here what I have done with it after I realized why it was sold as LNNU in 2015..."] ... Yep, been there on many other projects. However, with my Zorki.3 & Zorki.4, both very early models, they are much smoother and sturdier than newer models I've owned and sold.
nukecoke, yes the dial has just one screw. I have tested several times and it's apparent the shutter has been replaced and not just the dial. All speeds are in alignment with corresponding numbers.
davidnewtonguitars - Today you are my favorite member of RFF. Even more than back alley!
["I haunted one like yours while been under same illusion what the earlier is the better. Actually, it was worse than other two I previously restored (after 1955), so worse, I'm not even going to write here what I have done with it after I realized why it was sold as LNNU in 2015..."] ... Yep, been there on many other projects. However, with my Zorki.3 & Zorki.4, both very early models, they are much smoother and sturdier than newer models I've owned and sold.
nukecoke, yes the dial has just one screw. I have tested several times and it's apparent the shutter has been replaced and not just the dial. All speeds are in alignment with corresponding numbers.
davidnewtonguitars - Today you are my favorite member of RFF. Even more than back alley!
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
This is the pressure plate, "band aid" shape, from a Zorki, The true round one is only for a Fed camera, according to Fedka, http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/Page455.htm It is the only one I have anyway.
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Zorki 1e body. The band-aid pressure plate fits on this one. I wonder if your 1b got changed out to a Fed body.
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
Hmmm that's a possibility. Another Zorkenstein.
:-/
:-/
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
farlymac
PF McFarland
Welcome to the wonderful world of Zorkenstein! Or is it Zorkenstien? Having been made leery of buying from the overseas sellers, I opted to get my first Zorki (a 1D) from someone here in the States. It came with two serial numbers, one on the body back (proper for a 1D), and one on the rangefinder hump (as for a 1B).
I didn't mind it being kludged together because it worked. Well, except for all the shutter holes, which I fixed with copious amounts of fabric paint. David Newton beat me to offering a pressure plate, as my first Zorki has been in disassembly mode for a long time now, and will remain so. It's neat to show folks just how the shutter works in a rangefinder camera, and I've replaced it with a completely overhauled 1D from one of the respected Ukrainian dealers.
Just for information, my Zorkenstein body has a serial of Nº482452 on the back center, and the rangefinder hump has the Zopkuú script with the KMZ logo below it to the left of the accessory shoe, and Nº229111 above the shoe (all engraved, not stamped). Shutter speeds are Z, and 1/20 > 1/500, with two screws holding the dial to the shaft.
PF
I didn't mind it being kludged together because it worked. Well, except for all the shutter holes, which I fixed with copious amounts of fabric paint. David Newton beat me to offering a pressure plate, as my first Zorki has been in disassembly mode for a long time now, and will remain so. It's neat to show folks just how the shutter works in a rangefinder camera, and I've replaced it with a completely overhauled 1D from one of the respected Ukrainian dealers.
Just for information, my Zorkenstein body has a serial of Nº482452 on the back center, and the rangefinder hump has the Zopkuú script with the KMZ logo below it to the left of the accessory shoe, and Nº229111 above the shoe (all engraved, not stamped). Shutter speeds are Z, and 1/20 > 1/500, with two screws holding the dial to the shaft.
PF
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I already mentioned what I have read on rf.ru from person who is fixing and also selling Zorki, FED cameras. I'm waiting for one of his.
http://rangefinder.ru/club/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13029
Earlier Zorki (before 100000 sn) has round plate and body is without strength reinforcement ribs.
http://rangefinder.ru/club/download/file.php?id=533&mode=view
http://rangefinder.ru/club/download/file.php?id=534&mode=view
http://rangefinder.ru/club/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13029
Earlier Zorki (before 100000 sn) has round plate and body is without strength reinforcement ribs.
http://rangefinder.ru/club/download/file.php?id=533&mode=view
http://rangefinder.ru/club/download/file.php?id=534&mode=view
geoffox23
Member
Hi
Your body looks an authentic 1b Zorki.
I'd try Oleg @ OKvintagecameras, to supply the correct pressure plate & springs.
Good luck.
Cheers, Geoff
farlymac
PF McFarland
While you have it apart, Reagan, maybe look into adding some strap lugs.
PF
PF
David Hughes
David Hughes
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
"Zorkenstien" is no doubt correct. I like "Zorki à la carte" even better.
Oleg has worked over both my Leicas and sold me a really smooth 3M. I think I asked him about the round plate several years ago, so it's about time to hit him up again. And maybe DAG.
Thanks guys for all the input and research shared. I've decided to just leave it on the shelf and keep my eyes and ears open from time to time for pressure plate and 20-500 shutter. I found a post today where I had talked about this same camera in 2006. Yeeesh. Too much trouble and expense? Yep, definitely. But some projects are not "Rescue", but rather, "Recovery."
Oleg has worked over both my Leicas and sold me a really smooth 3M. I think I asked him about the round plate several years ago, so it's about time to hit him up again. And maybe DAG.
Thanks guys for all the input and research shared. I've decided to just leave it on the shelf and keep my eyes and ears open from time to time for pressure plate and 20-500 shutter. I found a post today where I had talked about this same camera in 2006. Yeeesh. Too much trouble and expense? Yep, definitely. But some projects are not "Rescue", but rather, "Recovery."
Besides, "Dude, it's a B! "
geoffox23
Member
Aw nooo reagan
After 11 years in purgatory, it deserves to re-join "the Shooters."
(And even though it's a B, it did have 100000 brothers, so it's not too rare.)
With a clean camera with a working shutter and "the brightest, clearest RF patch of anything I own", you are 90% there.
If no success from either Oleg or DAG, send me a PM.
To get it off the shelf, I can help with a pressure plate and springs, but beware, postage from Australia is not cheap.
Cheers, Geoff
After 11 years in purgatory, it deserves to re-join "the Shooters."
(And even though it's a B, it did have 100000 brothers, so it's not too rare.)
With a clean camera with a working shutter and "the brightest, clearest RF patch of anything I own", you are 90% there.
If no success from either Oleg or DAG, send me a PM.
To get it off the shelf, I can help with a pressure plate and springs, but beware, postage from Australia is not cheap.
Cheers, Geoff
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