suanzes
Ian
angstmann, I'm not sure where you are located, but the shop 'photokraemer' on ebay sells used original 54mm (the 54mm cap fits the 52mm filter size) Yashica plastic caps for the GX cheaply - mine came today and it's in great condition and fits great. They still have a few left - they are based in Germany but only seem to send to Europe though.
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angstmann
Member
That sounds perfect! I am in the UK. I will check them out now. Thanks!
Mablo
Well-known
Mablo, I have in my hands the flash recommended in the GX user manual, the Yashica ES-20 Auto. It's trigger voltage is 200v. So, strobes with voltages in this range are recommended by Yashica.
FWIW, my results match yours and Sally's. Flash with low trigger voltage gives "Slow Sync". Flash with high trigger voltage puts the shutter at 1/30 in low light. Don't know what happens with high trigger voltage in broad daylight.
Hey, that's encouraging news! Thank you Richard. I have a Vivitar 283 strobe that kicks out something like 250V but I think I'll try it with my GX anyway. I'll post my results later.
angstmann
Member
Hi, I just wondered - I have read that I can use LR44 batteries in the GX. How many would I need and how can I fit them in? I've heard of people using tinfoil to pad the batteries as the LR44's are smaller... I can't quite visualise how I would load the batteries... there are 2 battery bays in the GX, and that appears to be different from the GSN, etc.
Frontman
Well-known
Yes, you can use LR44 or SR44 batteries in the GX. The original NR52 batteries are 1.5 volts, but are a bit thicker and wider than LR44s. They fit side-by-side in the battery compartment on the bottom of the camera. There are a few ways to make the LR44s fit, you can buy adapters (which cost about $20), and these usually work pretty well, though some of the adapters I have seen aren't quite thick enough and don't get good contact. Some people make spacers from aluminum foil, and these work well enough. Still another method is to fit small springs between the batteries and the contacts.
angstmann
Member
Thanks. I will have a play around. I saw a photo of someone who put 2xLR44's in one of the compartments, and then used something else (foil perhaps) in teh other compartment... would that have the same affect as putting a single LR44 in each compartment and packing them?
Mablo
Well-known
A short status report concerning the flash use. I can now confirm that my 250V trigger voltage Vivitar 283 really works with GX. That's great news. On the negative side of things my old and trusted Vivitar strobe died during the experiment. Must buy a new one.
2xLR44 or 2xSR44's in the other department and a piece of metal in the other. That's basically the Yashica Guy's adapter. I like to support him when I can so I bought one from him.
Thanks. I will have a play around. I saw a photo of someone who put 2xLR44's in one of the compartments, and then used something else (foil perhaps) in teh other compartment... would that have the same affect as putting a single LR44 in each compartment and packing them?
2xLR44 or 2xSR44's in the other department and a piece of metal in the other. That's basically the Yashica Guy's adapter. I like to support him when I can so I bought one from him.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Mablo, I have in my hands the flash recommended in the GX user manual, the Yashica ES-20 Auto. It's trigger voltage is 200v. So, strobes with voltages in this range are recommended by Yashica.
Oops... I spoke too quickly. The flash I have is an ES-20 and it appears to be different from the ES-20 Auto which is described in the GX user manual.
The ES-20 Auto has a pivot in the foot. "The Yashica ES-20 Auto can be swiveled 90 degrees to the left and right while mounted on your Electro 35 GX."
My plain ES-20 has no pivot in the foot and bottom of the foot has only one contact.
Has anyone ever seen an ES-20 Auto or any flash that's matched to the two contacts on the GX hot shoe?
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SallyShears
Member
Angstmann... Batteries... 2 x SR44 or LR44 in one compartment, a metal conductor between the contacts in the other compartment. This will get you going but you will have to fiddle a bit to keep things in place and keep a good electrical connection. The Yashica-Guy kit is very good.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
About the GS Flash... I have tested fill flash outdoors with the ES-20 flash which has a trigger voltage around 200v. I believe these results will hold for any "high voltage" flash.
Outdoors, ASA 200 film, in full October sunlight at f/11. Exposure was probably 1/250th or perhaps 1/125th. Shooting normal scene at 10 feet, so the flash will be fill a couple of stops down.
Two exposures, one with the flash, one without. The negatives have the same density.
I conclude, with a high-voltage flash mounted, the GX auto-exposure mechanism will give you a shutter speed of no longer than 1/30th. In short, you get 1/30th in low light, and fill flash outdoors.
We already know from the posts above that with a low-voltage flash, the flash works and the GX uses a shutter speed to give a normal exposure from ambient light, including long exposures up to a few seconds in low light. In Nikon language, this is "slow sync."
Hope this helps GX users.
Outdoors, ASA 200 film, in full October sunlight at f/11. Exposure was probably 1/250th or perhaps 1/125th. Shooting normal scene at 10 feet, so the flash will be fill a couple of stops down.
Two exposures, one with the flash, one without. The negatives have the same density.
I conclude, with a high-voltage flash mounted, the GX auto-exposure mechanism will give you a shutter speed of no longer than 1/30th. In short, you get 1/30th in low light, and fill flash outdoors.
We already know from the posts above that with a low-voltage flash, the flash works and the GX uses a shutter speed to give a normal exposure from ambient light, including long exposures up to a few seconds in low light. In Nikon language, this is "slow sync."
Hope this helps GX users.
angstmann
Member
Thanks for all the battery help. I have it working reliably now - although the battery test light does not illuminate - but I hear this doesn't necessarily matter. Got a film loaded and ready to go!
Mablo
Well-known
I shot a roll with GX over the weekend. It was really dark outside and I was shooting at f/4 all the time (ASA 100). Here's one:

Frontman
Well-known
Thanks for all the battery help. I have it working reliably now - although the battery test light does not illuminate - but I hear this doesn't necessarily matter. Got a film loaded and ready to go!
The check light bulb can burn out and the camera still be operable. To check, you can dry-fire the camera while switching apertures, the shutter speed should slow down as you adjust the apertures upward.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
I now have in my hands a nicely operating GX, purchased from Frontman who seems to have an inexhaustable supply of compact rangefinder cameras and a strong knack for putting them into right working order. Thanks, Frontman!
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
What's the most effective lens hood for a GX? I have several 52mm hoods that shade the lens, but they block the viewfinder. Has anyone found a 52mm vented hood? Used a 49mm vented hood with step-down ring? I might pull out the Dremel and try to "vent" one of my 52mm hoods.
btgc
Veteran
I think 52mm standard metal hood (box labeled S) from heavy2star at ebay is best bang for buck.
angstmann
Member
Meter/Battery issue 
Meter/Battery issue
Oh dear. Well, my GX sat on the shelf for a few months and then was neglected for a while whilst we moved house :/ Now when I come to try and use it, I'm getting nothing at all from the meter... no lights, nothing. No lights on top, or in the viewfinder. No signs of life at all. I have tried using LR44 batteries, and I also got hold of some modern day equivalents for the original battery, but still no go. I can only assume that there is some issue with the electrical contacts failing to make the connection somewhere. I'm really disappointed as the camera is in such great shape overall.
Am I right to assume that as this is an auto exposure only camera that without the meter there is no other way of me being able to set exposure with any degree of accuracy? Is this one destined for life on the shelf I wonder?
Meter/Battery issue
Oh dear. Well, my GX sat on the shelf for a few months and then was neglected for a while whilst we moved house :/ Now when I come to try and use it, I'm getting nothing at all from the meter... no lights, nothing. No lights on top, or in the viewfinder. No signs of life at all. I have tried using LR44 batteries, and I also got hold of some modern day equivalents for the original battery, but still no go. I can only assume that there is some issue with the electrical contacts failing to make the connection somewhere. I'm really disappointed as the camera is in such great shape overall.
Am I right to assume that as this is an auto exposure only camera that without the meter there is no other way of me being able to set exposure with any degree of accuracy? Is this one destined for life on the shelf I wonder?
Bill58
Native Texan
I'm sorry I can't help you w/ the meter problem, only to advise against LR44s in favor of SR44s. You'll get better readings when the meter is fixed. It has something to do with the power curve of the SR44s being closer to that of the original mercury batteries over the life of the battery.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Angstmann, sorry to hear. Batteries are good, about 1.5v, right? Good contact inside the battery compartment? I have had Electros work then not work for no apparent reason. You might try exercising the camera a bit. I had one come back A-OK with some exercise.
If not, yes you can still use the camera. Load 400 speed film, know that the shutter will be at the default 1/500th, and shoot with sunny-f16 rule.
If not, yes you can still use the camera. Load 400 speed film, know that the shutter will be at the default 1/500th, and shoot with sunny-f16 rule.
Frontman
Well-known
The GX has two things which are failure prone, those are the wires which connect to the battery contacts, and the meter cell. The wires often become corroded and lose their connection with the contacts. You can re-solder the wires, or use a corrosion treatment liquid which neutralizes the corrosion, and helps conduct electricity. As for the meter cell, it would have to be replaced.
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