Biggles
My cup runneth amok.
Ah. Thanks. Not sure why I presumed it used obsolete ones. Maybe because every other damned camera I have does.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Ah. Thanks. Not sure why I presumed it used obsolete ones. Maybe because every other damned camera I have does.
LOL. The Nikon F uses mercury batteries but Nikon was ahead of its time in making the F2 use Silver Oxides in the early 70s when most other cameras still used Mercury. The F3 uses the same Silver Oxide cells as the F2. The F4 uses AA batteries but they don't last long.
nobbylon
Veteran
I doubt that any F3 that does not look like it's been a newspaper or war correspondent camera will need any attention anyway. Probably needs new door seals and a mirror foam, maybe not, but it's an easy job to do. Interslice do great kits. F3's are now at a price level that's close to service cost. If it's not broken it doesn't need fixing IMHO.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I doubt that any F3 that does not look like it's been a newspaper or war correspondent camera will need any attention anyway. Probably needs new door seals and a mirror foam, maybe not, but it's an easy job to do. Interslice do great kits. F3's are now at a price level that's close to service cost. If it's not broken it doesn't need fixing IMHO.
I ended up selling two F2AS's because they needed service. The speeds were beginning to get long, but the electronic timing of the shutter on a F3 self-adjusts so it is unlikely that your shutter speeds are off. I did all the foam seals myself by following John Goodman's instructions. I bought the foam at a craft and hobby store for a few dollars.
When I bought my F3P it had just been totally overhauled because it came back from Operation Desert Storm having been a real press camera for the newspaper "Newsday." Like the quote above states, unless your camera was involved in a military conflict, street fight or was dropped you are probably good to go.
As far as Nippon Camera Repair, the word on the street is that it is the place to go for Nikon gear in NYC.
Cal
kdemas
Enjoy Life.
I had Nippon Camera Repair fix my Contax T about a month ago, they do nice work.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Number 1 Son approves of my F3HP/MD4. He's always had good taste in cameras.
Focus by ruby.monkey, on Flickr
I never knew or thought that a F3 could look so cute. Awsome. Your son has good taste BTW.
Cal
DennisPT
Well-known
menos
Veteran
The thread is getting a slip. I promised a photo of my F3 (thanks Cal for the hard sales talkin' me into):

nobbylon
Veteran
I just purchased another! An as new condition original version which doesn't even look like it's been used. I'm now after an F4 for my collection!
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
A couple of recent photos shot with my F3HP
35mm f2D AF-Nikkor
50mm f1.4 AF-Nikkor

35mm f2D AF-Nikkor

50mm f1.4 AF-Nikkor
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
A couple of recent photos shot with my F3HP
![]()
35mm f2D AF-Nikkor
![]()
50mm f1.4 AF-Nikkor
Chris,
Nice contrast and tonality. What film and developer?
Also want to thank you. You should know that your broad use of gear has effected and inspired me to grow into medium format. I expect that one day I'll be going 4x5 next. I do almost always B&W, but across formats many things change.
Thanks again.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
The thread is getting a slip. I promised a photo of my F3 (thanks Cal for the hard sales talkin' me into):
![]()
Dirk,
That's a hot rig and overall your lens seems cleaner than mine, but my body has more brassing.
I will add that the Nikon rubber hood mirrors the conical shape of the Noct-Nikkor, and I find that collapsing the hood a valuable convenience when I mount a Nikon slim circular polarizer for either effect or as a ND filter because filters can mount to the front of the hood.
BTW I'm thinking of modding my F3P meter so the light comes on whenever its activated because it makes the LCD easier to read.
Cal
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Chris,
Nice contrast and tonality. What film and developer?
Also want to thank you. You should know that your broad use of gear has effected and inspired me to grow into medium format. I expect that one day I'll be going 4x5 next. I do almost always B&W, but across formats many things change.
Thanks again.
Cal
Cal,
I used Tri-X in D-76 1+1. Processed according to Kodak's recommended time (9.75 minutes at 68F/20C).
You'll love medium format, the image quality is magnificent compared to 35mm, even with the relatively small 645 format. I did a lot of my best work over the years with a Mamiya 645. I've got a lot of health problems and can't carry a lot of weight, so 645 worked best for me. Something like a Mamiya RB67 is too heavy and rangefinders like the Fuji 670 models too limiting since I use several lenses. I like square format a lot for some images also.
In college, I got a Graphic View 4x5 and it wasn't for me. The gear is too heavy and the big bellows is very sensitive to wind. The wind blows all the time in Indiana, so i had a very hard time getting sharp images because the wind would shake the bellows and the whole camera, which is not a problem with a solid bodies camera like a medium format SLR..the wind hitting a solid-bodies camera doesn't usually shake it.
wjlapier
Well-known
I'm a diehard fan of the F3. I've owned three--demolished one trying to shave the mirror so the F3 could accept Canon FD 85/1.2 F-mount lens. Another I have no idea what happened to it ( I just recently found a Nikon FM in a box in my garage! ). Third looks like this one below. Brassy all over. Dings here and there. Looks great to me and feels well balanced with the R 28/2.8 v2.
Attachments
menos
Veteran
Yes Cal, I am very, very happy, that after I got the Noct cleaned, I found just one barely visible scratch in the paint. It looks a lot more mint, than many of the "mint" advertised samples on 3bay - it is a wonderful lens.Dirk,
That's a hot rig and overall your lens seems cleaner than mine, but my body has more brassing.
I will add that the Nikon rubber hood mirrors the conical shape of the Noct-Nikkor, and I find that collapsing the hood a valuable convenience when I mount a Nikon slim circular polarizer for either effect or as a ND filter because filters can mount to the front of the hood.
BTW I'm thinking of modding my F3P meter so the light comes on whenever its activated because it makes the LCD easier to read.
Cal
I have the rubber hood as well and use it in the rain, but prefer, to shoot it naked otherwise (size, handling).
So far, I use the F3 in low light like a camera without meter, but a mod seems coming closing in as well …
I'm a diehard fan of the F3. I've owned three--demolished one trying to shave the mirror so the F3 could accept Canon FD 85/1.2 F-mount lens. Another I have no idea what happened to it ( I just recently found a Nikon FM in a box in my garage! ). Third looks like this one below. Brassy all over. Dings here and there. Looks great to me and feels well balanced with the R 28/2.8 v2.
Now that gives a whole new ground of rethinking that Leica 85 Lux R again ;-)
I am surprised, how huuge the 28 2.8 R is - just got one of these 28 2.8 Nikon Ai-s with 0.2m close focus - what a tiny, sweet gem of a lens!
gilpen123
Gil
StephenPG
Established
me with my F3T and MD4 in the late 80's

menos
Veteran
Steve, you remember, which lens it is in the photo above? I never saw a Nikon rectangular lens hood, but then again, I never could say, I saw many, to begin with ;-)
It that a flash on a cable, stowed away or another gadget?
Now, that I found these beautiful old cameras for enjoyment, it is hard, to believe, they were once used as the pinnacle of photo journalist tools during the better part of the 80's.
Too different todays electronic wonders seem to be (although the ergonomics and balance of a D3 does not feel much different indeed from the MD-4'ed F3HP).
@ Gil: I think similar to you, but the FM3a, I still refuse, to sell is kept, as it is just so much smaller and lighter than the F3HP, although I find the meter display even worse in low light and the viewfinder is a peephole by comparison.
The F3HP though really made my mouth watering for an F2 actually ;-) If I find a nice black paint sample, brassed or mint, I will hardly resist.
It that a flash on a cable, stowed away or another gadget?
Now, that I found these beautiful old cameras for enjoyment, it is hard, to believe, they were once used as the pinnacle of photo journalist tools during the better part of the 80's.
Too different todays electronic wonders seem to be (although the ergonomics and balance of a D3 does not feel much different indeed from the MD-4'ed F3HP).
@ Gil: I think similar to you, but the FM3a, I still refuse, to sell is kept, as it is just so much smaller and lighter than the F3HP, although I find the meter display even worse in low light and the viewfinder is a peephole by comparison.
The F3HP though really made my mouth watering for an F2 actually ;-) If I find a nice black paint sample, brassed or mint, I will hardly resist.
Last edited:
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
The F3HP though really made my mouth watering for an F2 actually ;-) If I find a nice black paint sample, brassed or mint, I will hardly resist.
The F2AS or SB have great meters and are savagly overbuilt, but the motor drive is less developed than the F3. Make sure you get one with a good meter. In an earlier post I mentioned a mint F2AS that I named the "Heartbreaker" because I had to return it to Adorama because of a faulty meter.
Dirk, you have good taste!
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Cal,
I used Tri-X in D-76 1+1. Processed according to Kodak's recommended time (9.75 minutes at 68F/20C).
You'll love medium format, the image quality is magnificent compared to 35mm, even with the relatively small 645 format. I did a lot of my best work over the years with a Mamiya 645. I've got a lot of health problems and can't carry a lot of weight, so 645 worked best for me. Something like a Mamiya RB67 is too heavy and rangefinders like the Fuji 670 models too limiting since I use several lenses. I like square format a lot for some images also.
In college, I got a Graphic View 4x5 and it wasn't for me. The gear is too heavy and the big bellows is very sensitive to wind. The wind blows all the time in Indiana, so i had a very hard time getting sharp images because the wind would shake the bellows and the whole camera, which is not a problem with a solid bodies camera like a medium format SLR..the wind hitting a solid-bodies camera doesn't usually shake it.
Chris,
Thanks for the info, and I am aware of your stuggles. I also identify myself as an artist, but I have had to take care of myself from an early-early age without any family. I also have learned all about hardship, but fortunately I have outgrown it.
My choice was towork day jobs.
Always wishing you the best, we struggle.
Cal
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.