Highway 61
Revisited
To all of your three questions : no.
For making an eye cup, you'll have to play with some rubber rings from your plumbing store, which will have to be customized if you want to install them on the S3 rectangular eyepiece (this will be easier on the S2 round eyepiece).
There is no need of a grip to perfectly hold a Nikon RF camera.
B-9
Devin Bro
So the S3 eyepiece is a solid square? Without any grooves to facilitate diopters or viewing attachments? Seems like a poor design, especially when the F incorporated this from the start.
As for a grip, I have rather large hands, NO camera of this size fits perfectly in my hands. A grip will be a mandatory accessory for me, even if I make my own.
Although I've seen that the GMP R-Grip fits the S3/SP, but is unrealisticly hard to find.
ferider
Veteran
I like grips, too. I had a GMP Uni grip on the Nikon F. Quite hard to find but it works.
However, to change film, you have to remove the grip - a pain, IMO.
Roland.
However, to change film, you have to remove the grip - a pain, IMO.
Roland.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
This with a rather battered S3 - works fine though. Voigtlander Color Skopar 21mm f4.0 in the S mount. Small and compact package - particularly with the Cosina 21/25 mm finder. The older plastic finder has more magnification - but does snag on stuff in the bag.
Orwo UN 54 film ain Pyrocat HD semi syand development.
This Totem pole in the park close to us is usual home to a couple of bald eagles in the summer - and a rather grumpy looking heron in the winter.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I have been a Leica user for a long time (metered and unmetered bodies) and wound up with a Nikon S2 not fully convinced that I'd like the 50mm as a focal length of choice.
Boy, was I wrong...
Coming from a Leica, you'll have to get used to everything turning the "wrong" way (shutter speed dial, focusing- and aperture-rings), but then once you've figured that the wheel on the top plate helps focusing, the camera becomes incredibly practical.
I have large hands, and I used a grip on my M bodies. You don't need any in the Nikon RF bodies, or at least in the S2, and you'll like the simplicity... until it comes to switching shutter speeds or loading film. Still, it's a very well made camera.
Now... I wouldn't ditch my Leica gear yet. See to handle a Nikon RF anywhere, and find out whether you like it. And keep in mind that even if the VF magnification is 1:1, it's NOT parallax corrected.
In my case, I found an "inexpensive" kit and bought it, thinking I wouldn't like it... but I did. It's a Nikon S2 with a 50mm f1.4 lens. I took it on an extended trip-stay to Spain (as a college professor sometimes I take students in study-abroad trips), and I enjoyed shooting with it more than with my Nikon dSLR, but that was my experience. See to handle one first.
And keep in mind that it only has framelines for the 50mm lens. If you want to "see" the FOV of a 35mm lens, you'll have to get a separate VF (for the S2), look through an alternate viewfinder (in the SP) or through a fairly busy VF (in the S3).
Take care!
Boy, was I wrong...
Coming from a Leica, you'll have to get used to everything turning the "wrong" way (shutter speed dial, focusing- and aperture-rings), but then once you've figured that the wheel on the top plate helps focusing, the camera becomes incredibly practical.
I have large hands, and I used a grip on my M bodies. You don't need any in the Nikon RF bodies, or at least in the S2, and you'll like the simplicity... until it comes to switching shutter speeds or loading film. Still, it's a very well made camera.
Now... I wouldn't ditch my Leica gear yet. See to handle a Nikon RF anywhere, and find out whether you like it. And keep in mind that even if the VF magnification is 1:1, it's NOT parallax corrected.
In my case, I found an "inexpensive" kit and bought it, thinking I wouldn't like it... but I did. It's a Nikon S2 with a 50mm f1.4 lens. I took it on an extended trip-stay to Spain (as a college professor sometimes I take students in study-abroad trips), and I enjoyed shooting with it more than with my Nikon dSLR, but that was my experience. See to handle one first.
And keep in mind that it only has framelines for the 50mm lens. If you want to "see" the FOV of a 35mm lens, you'll have to get a separate VF (for the S2), look through an alternate viewfinder (in the SP) or through a fairly busy VF (in the S3).
Take care!
bobkonos
Well-known
I have and use Leica M and Nikon rangefinder cameras so will not add to what is already said. But I will add this concerning the R2S: good luck getting one, and get one if you can. A fellow had one for sale here for a while and I assume it sold, but they rarely show up for sale. Why? Because for the money they are terrific and no longer made, a combination that, in my opinion, makes them collectible and treasured among us who own them and use them. No easier way to use original Nikon rangefinder lenses as well as the excellent Voightlander optics. I love mine, and have the Voigtlander 21, 25, 50 Sonnar, and 85 lenses, and trigger winder, in one happy bag (along with a vintage Nikon RF 50mm f1.4 lens). Good luck finding an R2S, but if you do find one...get it.
furcafe
Veteran
The VF eyepieces on the Nikon RFs, even the later SP, S3, & S4, are not really like those on the F (obvious if you put them next to each other). That's not to say that Nikon didn't offer VF accessories back in the day, but if they did & happen to exist today, they're probably very expensive collector items (& in a camera shop in Japan).
Here's an old thread about adding an eyecup: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2230156
Here's an old thread about adding an eyecup: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2230156
B-9
Devin Bro
Interesting idea, the japanexposure adapter is really neat!
I can already see a square version that would accept the later square back F prism accessories (of which i already own)
I do work with plastic....alot...this is very tempting.
Along with a grip, the half-base style of a GMP grip seems like the way to go here. One thing is for sure, you guys will see me making odd accessories for the Nikon when I manage one.
Ive commited to the move, having listed most of my RF kit on the eBay. Im hoping to get into a user SP, but will jump on a S3 if one shows first in my price range.
Now onto brass tax, what should I expect to pay for a body?
Body with f2 lens?
Body with 1.4 lens?
(Either SP or S3, but please specify)
bobkonos
Well-known
B-9
Devin Bro
Bob, ive listed many things on our classifieds here. Just check my feedback. But unfortunately I dont feel like moving 7$ from my bank account, waiting 3 days for it to show in my paypal, then send it over to Stephen. I have limited free time as of late, eBay was the easiest, cheapest (free, since they owe me a substantial amount of credit), and fastest form of sale I can manage at the moment.
Once I have more time to dedicate to these sales, I will add a listing in our classifieds. Other than that, feel free to visit my many posts in our For trade section.
Thanks for your concern!
Now if I could only just spend a bit more on a RFF Softie from Tom :]
bobkonos
Well-known
B-9
Devin Bro
You are very right sir! I have yet to find a R2S for sale.
The R2C appears much more common, although still very hard to find. One did pop up in the classifieds about a week ago, unfortunately my wallet is slim, and spending must wait until I first move some of my existing kit.
I feel ill likely find a good deal on a S before I even see one R2S for sale, sadly.
Also, Thanks again for your offer on the double shoe! Much appreciated, even if it was a bit beyond my spending capabilities! (Ive since found your offer to be very generous!)
Always a pleasure! and a Honor to have such seasoned members commenting on my silly threads!
For anyone interested, my eBay username is: Rq88w0
For the sake of forum rules and regulations, I will not post any direct links.
Highway 61
Revisited
S3 w/ f2 lens : $850
S3 w/ f1.4 lens : $850
SP w/ f2 lens : $950
SP w/ f1.4 lens : $950
(Classic chrome bodies in EXC+ to Mint- condition)
The f1.4 lens doesn't have any premium value over the f2 lens. On one hand you have an f1.4 lens but OTOH you have a better lens even wide open.
Speaking of the classic f1.4 lens, not of the Millenium / Olympic ones, of course.
B-9
Devin Bro
Thats the vibe ive been getting from looking at past sales.
Sounds groovy to me, Thanks a ton for your input!
I think im still going to aim for speed, in this case, Im mainly looking for the extra stopping power.
Does the 1.4 Compare at all to the F Nikkor-S? I had similiar experiences using the Nikkor-S and S.C. lenses, the later being a tid bit better. Gorgeous stopped down to f4.0 or even 2.8, but at 1.4 there was a noticeable difference in quality, although the "bokeh" was nice. I wish there was an affordable lens, that would offer the same speed and dreamy character of the 55/1.2 S.C. in this mount, but Ill leave that to floating around the Show off your.... thread.
Thanks again everyone!
Looking forward to the hunt, can anyone recommend (for the sake of reassurance) some reputable repairmen/women?
Range-rover
Veteran
After using Leica's for years I got tired when my M4 shutter went,years later I picked
up a Nikon S3 at a great deal and been using it ever since, there a great all around
shooter.
Range
up a Nikon S3 at a great deal and been using it ever since, there a great all around
shooter.
Range
furcafe
Veteran
The prices for the SP could be on the low side if you're looking for a late one w/titanium curtains. Also, good luck on finding 1 w/a good RF patch; it took me 3 tries when I was 1st looking 7 (has it been that long) years ago.
Don't know how the RF patches on the vintage S3s have held up over the decades.
Don't know how the RF patches on the vintage S3s have held up over the decades.
B-9
Devin Bro
So a bit of an update,
I sat down last night and wrote out some of the pro's and con's of each model (S2,S3,SP)
I was starting to get a headache from it all, when I got a call from a Local Photog friend.
After a good bit of time on the phone, I found out he had used both the S3 and S2 many years ago.
He reinforced the idea of handling one of theses cameras before jumping in "the deep end"
So we came up with a logical plan of action for my needs/wants.
Tell me what you think,
First, get a S2 (cheapest of the bunch) and get to know the camera and the system.
Then later, IF I feel the need, it will be easy enough to add to my existing budget and save for one of later models.
The price difference will allow me to keep shooting with my M4-2 and Snapshot skopar, along side a S2 and 50mm lens. After which I can make a informed decision on what fits me best! We shared the logic, that I should focus on getting the glass I desire, and leave the body for last.
So this morning I will be bidding on a Nice S2, and assuming I win, I have a planned purchase of a 50/1.4 from respected seller George Ury. All together I'm hoping to be in this simple kit around 500$ (right in line with Toms suggested price) and basicly will be a trade off of my IIIF RD ST and 35/3.2 Serenar and all its fixings.
I'm in high spirits, and can't wait to commit to a gorgeous S2!
Thanks again everyone for you're continued input!
I sat down last night and wrote out some of the pro's and con's of each model (S2,S3,SP)
I was starting to get a headache from it all, when I got a call from a Local Photog friend.
After a good bit of time on the phone, I found out he had used both the S3 and S2 many years ago.
He reinforced the idea of handling one of theses cameras before jumping in "the deep end"
So we came up with a logical plan of action for my needs/wants.
Tell me what you think,
First, get a S2 (cheapest of the bunch) and get to know the camera and the system.
Then later, IF I feel the need, it will be easy enough to add to my existing budget and save for one of later models.
The price difference will allow me to keep shooting with my M4-2 and Snapshot skopar, along side a S2 and 50mm lens. After which I can make a informed decision on what fits me best! We shared the logic, that I should focus on getting the glass I desire, and leave the body for last.
So this morning I will be bidding on a Nice S2, and assuming I win, I have a planned purchase of a 50/1.4 from respected seller George Ury. All together I'm hoping to be in this simple kit around 500$ (right in line with Toms suggested price) and basicly will be a trade off of my IIIF RD ST and 35/3.2 Serenar and all its fixings.
I'm in high spirits, and can't wait to commit to a gorgeous S2!
Thanks again everyone for you're continued input!
Highway 61
Revisited
The S2 may be the nicest of all the Nikon RFs, for several reasons, so you will love it to death if you get a really nice one. Cheapest of the bunch yes, but best VF of the bunch - and by far - if you limit yourself to the 50mm lens.
I have taken some of my keepers with my S2 "black dial" (other than cosmetics, no difference between the "chrome dial" and "black dial" models).
You will find a thread in this forum about making an eyecup for the S2 eyepiece.
About the classic 50mm f1.4 Nikkor-S-C : pay attention to the serial number. Some of them, belonging to the lowest serials group, have a rear element which was designed to cover the 24x32 format. You must get one belonging to the redesigned group, after Nikon moved to the 24x36 format. The same : there is a thread here about this.
Also, closely inspect the rear element periphery. Many of these lenses exhibit some balsam separation all around the rear element internal edge. If the lens you covet shows internal "golden droplets" all around its rear element, move along and get another one.
I have taken some of my keepers with my S2 "black dial" (other than cosmetics, no difference between the "chrome dial" and "black dial" models).
You will find a thread in this forum about making an eyecup for the S2 eyepiece.
About the classic 50mm f1.4 Nikkor-S-C : pay attention to the serial number. Some of them, belonging to the lowest serials group, have a rear element which was designed to cover the 24x32 format. You must get one belonging to the redesigned group, after Nikon moved to the 24x36 format. The same : there is a thread here about this.
Also, closely inspect the rear element periphery. Many of these lenses exhibit some balsam separation all around the rear element internal edge. If the lens you covet shows internal "golden droplets" all around its rear element, move along and get another one.
B-9
Devin Bro
The lens in question is a black barrel with serial# 379xxx
Is it a safe assumption that any of the newer black lenses will cover 24x36?
Is it a safe assumption that any of the newer black lenses will cover 24x36?
Highway 61
Revisited
Black lenses all cover 24x36 yes.
For some reason, black lenses are also the most prone to show some noticeable rings of "golden droplets" around their rear elements. Inspect the lens you want to buy, or, if you can't, ask for some close-up pics.
For some reason, black lenses are also the most prone to show some noticeable rings of "golden droplets" around their rear elements. Inspect the lens you want to buy, or, if you can't, ask for some close-up pics.