Not a Domke

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filmshooter
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I need - yes, really, need - a new camera bag. I like the Domke F2 for my Nikons but have gotten to the point that the metal clasps are a problem. I don't always have the strength I need to open them quickly, and I have had them scratch glass when they're open and flopping around. Does anyone have or know of a similar bag that opens and closes with a velcro flap? Thanks,
 
A tailor or shoemaker could neatly replace the original metal fasteners with Fastex-type plastic buckles.
Velcro could also be sewn on if you must. Apply sparingly; it's noisy and IMO quite inconvenient in use.

Chris
 
I need - yes, really, need - a new camera bag. I like the Domke F2 for my Nikons but have gotten to the point that the metal clasps are a problem. I don't always have the strength I need to open them quickly, and I have had them scratch glass when they're open and flopping around. Does anyone have or know of a similar bag that opens and closes with a velcro flap? Thanks,

I use Domke bags. I take them to a mountain gear repair place and have the metal fixtures replaced with "better" plastic ones. They easily open and close with one hand. I also had the handle reinforced on my F2.
http://www.strapworks.com/Side_Release_Buckles_p/srbsa.htm

If you do this, find a repair place with a "Bar Tack Machine" to do the sewing.
 
I'm happy with my Thinktank Retrospective 5, which closes with velcro (and you can even adjust how much velcro is in contact, to make it quieter if desired). Looking over all their shoulder bags, it seems the Retrospective 30 is similar in size to the F2. https://www.thinktankphoto.com/pages/shoulder-bags

I think this is on the right track, but the Retrospective 6 or 7 would be a better match for the capacity of the F2.
 
The (otherwise very nice) ThinkTank bags have metal clasps and zippers inside them... :bang:

This should be something to consider, too, if you are afraid of scratching your gear (which is fully legit).
 
I second the Thinktank Retrospective suggestion. Fabulous bags with a huge velcro on the front flap that can be adjusted for strength and "silent mode".
 
I agree with the OP, the Domke metal clasps are the worse. I find them hard to open, and sometimes get a bit of my finger caught for a sweet blood blister. : D I only use them for extended travel, never while shooting.
Swapping the D ring and clasp would make sense, the D ring wouldn't come in contact with anything when you open and close the flap.
I might change them to plastic ones. Good idea.
 
I use Domke bags. I take them to a mountain gear repair place and have the metal fixtures replaced with "better" plastic ones. They easily open and close with one hand. I also had the handle reinforced on my F2.
http://www.strapworks.com/Side_Release_Buckles_p/srbsa.htm

If you do this, find a repair place with a "Bar Tack Machine" to do the sewing.

Thanks for the tip, just ordered some of these for my Domke F6, as, like the OP, I have an real issue with the metal hardware. Otherwise I love the bag.

Best,
-Tim
 
I like the TT Retrospective series of bags but they seem to be heavier than they should be.

I prefer the TT Urban Disguise bags ( I have 3 of them), but yes, they do have zippers so you do have to be mindful of that.
 
I trust you guys on your experience with the Domke metal clasps... but did they change them at some point? I bought my first Domke 4 years ago, and another a few years later, and though the clasps were stiff at first they now easily open up one handed, and I love then because they are *silent* when opening.
Obviously, to each their own. I'm just wondering if the clasps have changed over the years...
 
Thanks for the tip, just ordered some of these for my Domke F6, as, like the OP, I have an real issue with the metal hardware. Otherwise I love the bag.

Best,
-Tim

Tim;

If you don't know, a Bar Tack Machine sews the really tight short line of sewing used on most outdoor gear. It makes the sewing strip in a second or two. The guy who has worked on my bags (and built some of the sail cloth rigs for my lighting gear) converted the domkes in about 15 minutes each. It's really simple work and cost little. I bought my hardware from him.

So, you know what I'm talking about..
http://whafi.com/sewing-techniques/how-to-sew-a-bar-tack

On the adjustable end of the closure, be sure to fold-over a short amount of strap and double bar tack, so the strap can't work loose from the hardware. Mine have lasted and worked well for years. I can open and close them easily with gloves on in winter, with one hand.

I never scratched a lens but, saw it could easily happen when working fast or when tired and packing up.

pkr
 
Maybe you could stick with the Domke and sew on some velcro for daily use and keep the metal stats for when you want to "lock it down" in transit or something
 
Artisan and Artist

Artisan and Artist

I have not used the F2 bag but had an FX 3 for many years and find some similarity in the Oscar One Day Bag from Artisan and Artist. If you need a larger bag, the zipper openings those bags have may not appeal to you.

On the Oscar bag the velcro is strong and secure, and then there is a hidden plastic closure by the velcro under the flap that can also be used when you need it and no worry of scratching the glass. It's a really well designed and nicely constructed bag......very easy to carry.
 
I have the A&A Oscar one day bag and that may be the solution. Carry the two F2s and four lenses in the Domke and leave the bag in the truck. When I get out, put a lens on each of the cameras and put the other two in the A&A along with film, etc. I can't speak to the clasps changing over the years but I've been using Domkes for a long time - my first one was an original with no padding in either the bag or the insert - just a stiffener bottom pad. But my hands have changed, and the arthritis make the clips a problem. If I have to get into the bag quickly, I prefer velcro for this reason.
 
"The Domke metal clasps are the worse." Well, I agree to the extent that I thought I had closed both on my bag - and discovered I hadn't when a lens fell out onto concrete and smashed! That was several years ago. I use a Retrospective or a Tenba now.
 
Tim;

If you don't know, a Bar Tack Machine sews the really tight short line of sewing used on most outdoor gear. It makes the sewing strip in a second or two. The guy who has worked on my bags (and built some of the sail cloth rigs for my lighting gear) converted the domkes in about 15 minutes each. It's really simple work and cost little. I bought my hardware from him.

So, you know what I'm talking about..
http://whafi.com/sewing-techniques/how-to-sew-a-bar-tack

On the adjustable end of the closure, be sure to fold-over a short amount of strap and double bar tack, so the strap can't work loose from the hardware. Mine have lasted and worked well for years. I can open and close them easily with gloves on in winter, with one hand.

I never scratched a lens but, saw it could easily happen when working fast or when tired and packing up.

pkr

I carefully took each strap apart, installed the plastic hardware, and re-assembled it just as it originally was. Used to be a Muppet, so lots of experience sewing difficult fabrics. Really like the plastic snaps as opposed to the metal Domke clips. Always struggled trying to open those with one hand, these just pop open.

Best,
-Tim
 
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