aad
Not so new now.
Thanks, Shadow fox-but remember, REala is negative/print film!
Amazing how well these little cameras work, isn't it?
Amazing how well these little cameras work, isn't it?
mpt600
Established
I'll be sticking to fast(ish) film to get the small apertures to help me out until I nail this zone focussing thing. The main thing is I don't really trust it, and I'm never sure of focus until I see the prints.
Anyway, nice bike aad.
Anyway, nice bike aad.
MartinP
Veteran
Woo hoo, having had a Pen-EE (sort of an older, smaller, half-frame, similar looking, similar working camera - except no focussing at all) for twenty years I just saw a Trip-35 in a junk shop here. For seven euros I hope I have found a reliable carry-all-the-time camera.
The camera itself is very clean but the case is falling to bits with old-plastic-fatigue(?!), so I guess it has been stuck in someones attic cupboard for years.
Also the front part of the lens housing, with the asa settings, is quite loose yet without apparently affecting either the lens-mount or the mechanism below the lensed-window. Is that looseness a typical "feature" ?
The camera itself is very clean but the case is falling to bits with old-plastic-fatigue(?!), so I guess it has been stuck in someones attic cupboard for years.
Also the front part of the lens housing, with the asa settings, is quite loose yet without apparently affecting either the lens-mount or the mechanism below the lensed-window. Is that looseness a typical "feature" ?
pocho_1976
Canonet 1961 user
the graph
http://www.flickr.com/groups/olympustrip35/discuss/72157615318255766/
hope still help somebody.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/olympustrip35/discuss/72157615318255766/
hope still help somebody.
petronius
Veteran
There´s a way to use the Trip at 1/40 and 1/200.
http://classicameras.blogspot.com/2008/12/olympus-trip-35.html
Maybe ugly, but working.
http://classicameras.blogspot.com/2008/12/olympus-trip-35.html
Maybe ugly, but working.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I like this camera, it even works (sometimes) in difficult exposure situations.

John Hermanson
Well-known
When setting large f openings in bright light on these automatic camera's, the ambient light will override your choice. You quite literally have to cover the meter cell, partially depress the release to set the f stop, uncover cell, compose your picture and shoot. Not a defect, that's just how they work. John, www.zuiko.com
OlyMan
Established
Correct. I said as such on the previous page.
Since I first posted on this thread in 2007 I've learned a lot about how these ingenious little cameras work. Thanks to a Flickr member, I've even got hold of an EV graph which shows where the autoexposure will swap from 1/40th to 1/200th: EV13.
Since I first posted on this thread in 2007 I've learned a lot about how these ingenious little cameras work. Thanks to a Flickr member, I've even got hold of an EV graph which shows where the autoexposure will swap from 1/40th to 1/200th: EV13.
John Hermanson
Well-known
Yes, I've been working on these cameras since 1977. If I can be of any help, please let me know. John
micromoogman
Well-known
Yes, I've been working on these cameras since 1977. If I can be of any help, please let me know. John
Great, could you tell me how many degrees the front lens should be screwed into the helix? The examples I've checked comes out about 480 degrees. I have a couple of cameras that haven't been marked up correctly when disassembled.
By the way, I have found out an easy way to make the 1/200s modification. Check it out here:http://www.flickr.com/groups/compact35/discuss/72157625941267522/
Last edited:
zombiebirdhouse
Newbie
Hi folks,
I needed a way of showing myself as a new member to this great forum: so I figured it was wise to resuscitate this thread. Hope nobody minds!
Anyway, I love the Trip. It's a camera I pull out once every few months and just marvel at. I must have owned half a dozen of them over the years; now I've got just one left - and it's a keeper.
In terms of using the manual f2.8 stop. I've found the best way is to set the ISO to 25. If you keep it at ISO 25, it tends to shoot at f2.8 (when set to f2.8) without stopping down. At 400iso, it will stop down to something like f4 - even when set for 2.8.
I've always tended to shoot Trip's in "A" mode, but I'm hoping to conduct some experiments in flash mode - sans flash.
Also, if you do set the ISO at 400, the apertures tend to stay true from 5.6 down to 22.
I needed a way of showing myself as a new member to this great forum: so I figured it was wise to resuscitate this thread. Hope nobody minds!
Anyway, I love the Trip. It's a camera I pull out once every few months and just marvel at. I must have owned half a dozen of them over the years; now I've got just one left - and it's a keeper.
In terms of using the manual f2.8 stop. I've found the best way is to set the ISO to 25. If you keep it at ISO 25, it tends to shoot at f2.8 (when set to f2.8) without stopping down. At 400iso, it will stop down to something like f4 - even when set for 2.8.
I've always tended to shoot Trip's in "A" mode, but I'm hoping to conduct some experiments in flash mode - sans flash.
Also, if you do set the ISO at 400, the apertures tend to stay true from 5.6 down to 22.
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