MineSix66
Established
I was looking over the lens on my Perkeo III E and was using a cable release to keep the shutter open on the setting B. I went to close the folder and forgot to take out the cable release and let the shutter close. Now the shutter release button won't move (stays down) and the front won't close I can't see what is jammed. Any Ideas? I can post pics if required.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I don't have a IIIe to check this with, but...
You've probably held the shutter open long enough that the shutter blades have stuck to one another (due to old dried lubricant). It happens fairly frequently with older cameras that have not been adequately cleaned lubed and adjusted, although they usually get stuck in the closed position. If you clean the shutter with naptha, that will probably remedy the stuck shutter problem.
As for it not closing, all I can think of is that either you have somehow fouled the linkage or that the shutter cocking lever is hitting something.
MineSix66
Established
Thanks Fallis. Shutterblades are working perfectly. I can manually run the shutter system with my fingers. Trying to figure out the linkage. Really weird and tough to figure out.
MineSix66
Established
Solinar
Analog Preferred
In the second photo, the silver linkage that activates the shutter looks to be misaligned. (Not shown in the second photo,) Look back towards body, the rear portion of the same silver linkage has bent tab which rest directly under the mount for the cable release. This tab portion of the silver linkage should be about 1mm from the black mount for the cable release.
My guess is the rear portion of the linkage to the shutter release button is stuck in activate position. With a small screw driver, try to gently push it to the return position. If you have a syringe, you may try to lubricate the linkage with a couple of micro drops of oil.
Slightly inside the front of the body where the bellows attach and slightly away from front platform is hinged - you find a thin metal rod, which guides the rear most portion of the shutter release linkage. If this thin metal rod is bent, it will cause the linkage bind. Swabbing this rod with an oily Q-tip cotton swab may also help.
My guess is the rear portion of the linkage to the shutter release button is stuck in activate position. With a small screw driver, try to gently push it to the return position. If you have a syringe, you may try to lubricate the linkage with a couple of micro drops of oil.
Slightly inside the front of the body where the bellows attach and slightly away from front platform is hinged - you find a thin metal rod, which guides the rear most portion of the shutter release linkage. If this thin metal rod is bent, it will cause the linkage bind. Swabbing this rod with an oily Q-tip cotton swab may also help.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Sorry. Mistunderstood part of the problem. I thought you were saying that your shutter blades were not closing too. I'd bet money that the linkage is misaligned and this is what is causing the problem.
MineSix66
Established
You Guys were right it was the linkage.
I took the shutter assembly off and was able to fix it. VerY Tedious too, me took about a 1 hour. I cleaned the lens and noticed a small tick no bigger than a dust mark on the front element ( you can see it in the first pic almost center and a little left) and another small lint mark on the inner. Couldn't figure out how to take out the inner element to get a better cleaning, there is no indents for the wrench. It seems to me every vintage camera I get there is something this minor with the lens. People I buy from don't even tell me about it, maybe I am too picky.
Bought it off a guy that said certo 6 fixed it. I could tell he did becuase when I took the shutter off and was cleaning the inside metal of the camera where the linkage is there was a whole bunch of carbon powder. I know he uses this, seen it before on his other cameras. I decided to clean it up.
I probably will sell it on Ebay, be honest and let people know the ticks, just hope a get a fair price for it. Everything else is perfect. I was thinking about buying another perkeo and swapping lenses and keeping the perkeoIII becuase there was only a 1000 of them made and it has the synchro compur shutter. I seen the ones on ebay with the compur rapid. I think it is just a nice as the zeiss folders. Just paranoid about using the camera, never put a roll of film through it. I might try the EKTar once it comes out. Didn't see the nicks before.
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chippy
foo was here
i wonder why i thought c6 had something to do with this! i know he has done p/SVS to s/compur shutter transplants on these before so it doesnt suprise me, or pehaps the fellow that had it before did so and sent it to him to get working. it does look like it has some components that are used on the perkeo with prontor svs shutters, which makes sence as these didnt come with s/compur. it could be a selling point to have the s/compur on it (so long as you have it working now of course as you seem to indiate it is) as it makes it more preferable to someone whom wants to use it with the extra speeds, i like the s/compur on a perkeo.
any with compur rapids though are a transplant as well, compur rapids are a shutter that was finished production quite some time before the year of this camera, actually i dont think c/rapids are used on any perkeo 1,2 or E, just pronto & prontor, s/sv/svs and s/compur--
the nick on the front lens possibly wont affect the picture at all (be suprised what you can get away with on the front lens), the one on the inner may or may not, take some pictures and see if they do..if you post an image taken with it in your advert it will likely give people confidence to bid/buy and not worry about it--its a shame that people neglect to mention small things like this on lenses as the seller did to you, genuine experianced buyers appreciate the honesty and still buy anyway--
they are a very nice little camera, very good results from the c/scopar, virtually no difference in size from the perkeo II but with the rangefinder...for me its so small in my big hands, half the time looking through the rangefinder i think its not working and then realise my fingers are covering the window duh! great little camera ,wish you luck with the sale, all things being well it should fetch a good price
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Well, that just figures. Graphite powder is one of the things I mentioned in my "very very bad ideas" thread a while back. It ranks right up there with WD-40 and Superglue for things that should never go in a camera. If you need to use graphite, you use stick graphite, never powdered graphite. Powdered graphite gets everywhere, including all the places you don't want it to go -- even on the film. Might as well sprinkle the inside of the camera with baby powder. Stick graphite stays where you put it, but even then you rub off as much as you can before reassembling the shutter.
chippy
foo was here
oh i forgot to mention the inner lens just unsrews, but as you say there are no slots so it has to be friction held (correct term i am not sure-- after removing the shutter from front standard), which can be done with specialty tools that dont mark the lens rim, or, if in a pinch you can cover with enough cloth not to leave a mark but still enough to get a grip with apropriate size multigrips/wrench (not sure what you people on the other side of the world call the tool....watch FallisPhoto freak at that hahaha---it works though and doesnt leave a mark
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
You're right, Andrew; I'm freaking. Small strap wrenches can be had at two for $6. They use rubber straps to grip whatever you are turning with them and they won't mark or deform anything. If you've got to use a wrench, then they're cheap, they work, and they have a lot less chance of damaging whatever it is you are trying to turn with them. Pliers, on the other hand, have ruined a lot of lenses.
By the way, that center lens is threaded, but has not slots, so you use a friction wrench (think of a big bottle stopper made of soft rubber). You push it up against it and turn it.
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