Photos from W-Nikkor 2.8cm f/3.5

I understand that the 2.8cm on a S2, the focusing patch wont work. The only way to use it is thru hyperfocusing. What about the 3.5cm f2.5?

The 2.8cm is quite easy to gauge the distance once you set it to f8. Thanks Jonmanjiro for the advice.
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I initially wanted to get the 3.5cm for the s2, but i didnt. Ended up, i got one off ebay at a good price and in a collector condition which is in LTM mount so that i can use it on my M2 and save on a VF. The difference between the S mount offered and the LTM i won on ebay was a mere USD 50. Only 2 bidder. Guess i was lucky considered the price of nikkor LTM prices are these days.
 
I understand that the 2.8cm on a S2, the focusing patch wont work. The only way to use it is thru hyperfocusing. What about the 3.5cm f2.5?

The 2.8cm is quite easy to gauge the distance once you set it to f8. Thanks Jonmanjiro for the advice.

I initially wanted to get the 3.5cm for the S2, but I didn't. Ended up, I got one off eBay at a good price and in a collector condition which is in LTM mount so that I can use it on my M2 and save on a VF. The difference between the S mount offered and the LTM I won on eBay was a mere USD 50. Only 2 bidders. Guess I was lucky considered the price of Nikkor LTM prices are these days.

Jackson, the focus patch on your S2 should work just fine with the 2.8cm, and any 3.5cm, and any other S-mount Nikkor for that matter. Zone focusing just makes for faster shooting. Congrats on the LTM 3.5cm f2.5. Sounds like you got a great deal.

The focus action on my black 2.8cm f3.5 is very light, so is easy to focus using the focus wheel, but I still tend to focus by rotating the barrel. And consequently have my share of shots with my finger in the lower part of the frame :bang:
 
Jackson, the focus patch on your S2 should work just fine with the 2.8cm, and any 3.5cm, and any other S-mount Nikkor for that matter. Zone focusing just makes for faster shooting. Congrats on the LTM 3.5cm f2.5. Sounds like you got a great deal.

The focus action on my black 2.8cm f3.5 is very light, so is easy to focus using the focus wheel, but I still tend to focus by rotating the barrel. And consequently have my share of shots with my finger in the lower part of the frame :bang:
You just reminded me of something Jon. My first try to focus on the S2 with this lens was when i mounted it incorrectly. That was when i tried focusing and i couldnt which resulted in using hyper focusing. Subsequently after you have corrected me, i've never tried using the VF patch for focusing. Ops...:bang:

Now going to do another roll with this camera...

I was quite surprised that not much people actually bid for that lens...i remembered seeing one on ebay months back when it went up to as high as usd $400 plus.. guess i was lucky.
 
The Nikon wide-angle lenses are meant to be used with the focus wheel of the camera. The SP manual states that the Telephoto lenses cannot be used with the wheel as they are too heavy. I use the wheel with my 3.5cm F2.5, which has a very light touch.

I suspect the 2.8cm will be even lighter.

Yes but even besides that matter of focusing either with the lens focusing ring or with the camera focusing wheel, left hand gripping the lens and right hand gripping the camera body is something we are all plus or less used to for steady snapshots especially at speeds under 1/60s (I took sharp photos at 1/4s using the 28/3.5 on my SP, handheld), hence my caveat not to get your fingers on the photos (and the easy remedy to it).

If the 28/3.5 had been designed for focusing with the camera body focusing wheel only, Nikon would have made it the same way they made the 25/4 (without any focusing ring at all).

The camera body focusing wheel is fine enough but not for quick street snapshots, there the lens focusing ring is the best choice for a faster accurate focus because of the very long focusing throw.

But - to each his own, of course.
 
Can someone also comment on the ease of adjusting f-stops on the Nikkor 28 f3.5?

Is it more cumbersome to adjust aperture bec you cannot easily (or as easily as in other lens barrel designs) see the f-stop or bec the aperture ring is inside the filter ring? I think Steve Gandy made a similar observation in his website when comparing this lens to the CV 28 f3.5...
 
I think you can very quickly develop a pattern of tilting the camera around in the palm of your hand so that you can check the aperture. Also, with the firm click stops, you can easily adjust aperture without looking at the numbers in the barrel. If you forget which way the click stops go, the F4 and F3.5 are very very close together compared with F4 and F5.6, so it's very easy to get the feel of doing this right. I do a lot of interior and low light shooting, so I tend to keep the lens on f/3.5 or f/4 most of the time.
 
My shots...indeed a nice lens! However i realised, there are some pics captured my finger. Think need to be careful where your finger is.

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Nikkor 28f3.5 on a SP. Again Kodak 5231 +X moviestock. developed in D96.
One of the big cruise ships at the terminal here in vancouver. looks a bit like a highrise building laid down on it's side!
 
There are cyan/magenta color issues on the sides of the image from the 2.8cm f/3.5 on the M9. Don't know about other Leica digitals.
 
There are cyan/magenta color issues on the sides of the image from the 2.8cm f/3.5 on the M9. Don't know about other Leica digitals.

This is because of a reasonably deep rear element. Lots of lenses do it. Best cure is to shoot and then convert to black and white. This is why wide Leica lenses as of late are more retrofocal than they used to be and why a modern Leica 21mm lens won't have the cyan/magenta flag vignetting at all.

Phil Forrest
 
Nice. Do you have any examples? 🙂


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


finally got the chance to use the lens last weekend 😱😱😱

pardon for the small pictures, just click on the thumbnails. my pictures has been held "for ransom" by photobucket 🙄
 

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