Erik van Straten
Veteran
I will look on Funper. I would like a brown one for my model C.
Yes, doubtless the nickel is replated. After so many years it would have been dull.
I like the black focusing ring of the Elmar.
A miracle how they kept the serial number readable after refinishing the top plate.
Erik.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I did find the number matches with the one hand-pencilled on the shutter crate.
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
The Leica case supplied with the Null Series Replica will work perfectly with an A or a Standard also. The cover is attached but I’m sure could be reworked to attach by snaps. The case has no bottom screw. The camera is held in by a leather band that snaps tight. This fits between the viewfinder and rewind knob. I’ve used it for my Working UR Leicas as well. Nice case embossed with the logo. It closes fully but the snap on the cover back is a tad too close to snap properly (it was built for the Null..)
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carbo73
Well-known
That case looks wonderful for a Leica I(A)! I have one that got with my 24XXX I(A), but I don't trust the leather strap to carry it.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
My Leica I model C with Elmar 35mm f/3.5, FISON, VISOR and original Leica case (with the front flap removed).
Erik.
Erik.
Beemermark
Veteran
I have a reproduction of Morgans "Leica Manual" 1st printing was 1935 (same year the IIIa & IIIB was introduction) Film ratings were given in obsolete units but doing a little research - Fast film ISO 32~50, Normal film ISO 10~20. Just think what adding an orange filter would do!
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
Consider the 6 ISO Orthochromatic film sold by Film Project. That’s early to mid 20s average speed. For a later “authentic” film Kodak XX (double x) is a good choice. That emulsion is Kodak’s last “original” formula in use (as I’ve heard...)
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Closups are well to do with the I.
Leica I A (1928)/TMY400-2/AdoxMCC110.
Erik.
Leica I A (1928)/TMY400-2/AdoxMCC110.
Erik.
carbo73
Well-known
Yes, I've tried once, and looks good to me, although gave me unusual problems, like a lot of unknown origin "dirt" on the film. Maybe I did something wrong with that one development. I have now another roll of Double-X (aka 5222) waiting to be developed (although I put it in a M3, not in a Leica I). Other options are Adox HR-50, Ilford PANF Plus, Ortho 80 or Rollei Orhto 25. These last two also are orthochromatic like probably at least part of the available 35mm film in the 20's.
Ambro51
Collector/Photographer
Mark Osterman, who does Historic Processes with the Eastman House, done a run of handmade 35mm silver gelatin nitrate film two years ago. He ‘promised’ me some, to shoot in the UR, but like so many promises.....it evaporated. Too bad.....
carbo73
Well-known
If you have a large format plate camera you could get some dry plates made now by Jason Lane at
https://www.pictoriographica.com/st...a.com/store/c5/All_Production_Dry_Plates.html
I've used both 2 ASA and 25 ASA. They are really a time travel experience (but your enemies would be light leaks and specially DUST!)
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Now without the shutter curtain pinholes!
Looks like the temporary fix worked.
Still, I would feel better giving the camera new curtains.
Looks like the temporary fix worked.
Still, I would feel better giving the camera new curtains.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Well done, Rick, how did you do it? Nice even exposure.
New curtains and new straps are not too difficult to do. I think you can get shutter material from Nobbysparrow.
Erik.
New curtains and new straps are not too difficult to do. I think you can get shutter material from Nobbysparrow.
Erik.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I put tiny patches of Liquid Electrical Tape on the affected spots.
Also made sure to put the lens cap on between making the exposures.
I've fixed straps in Contaxes, but I've never actually dared replace Leica curtains before.
Also made sure to put the lens cap on between making the exposures.
I've fixed straps in Contaxes, but I've never actually dared replace Leica curtains before.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I've done straps in a Leica I. I brought the camera with a broken strap to Scherpenborg, but he said: You can do it yourself. It wasn't too easy, but not difficult either.
I once did curtains in a Leica II, a long time ago when I had no experience in repairing cameras at all. It was fascinating.
Erik.
45govt
Established
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Erik, thanks for the push in this thread... I spent the afternoon adjusting the shutter in my 1930 Ia, recovered it and cleaned out the lens elements.
New leather fits pretty well but isn't quite perfect, probably be my fault though as I didn't have the body screws in when I put the cover on. It is much better than the original Vulcanite that was loose pretty much everywhere. I had to reglue the vulcanite under the lens mount to keep in it place properly.
Now to get a roll through it.
Shawn
Hi Shawn & Erik, and everyone. I picked up the Nobby Sparrow manual on "How to Clean Old Leica Lenses and Accessories" so I think I'll be set on cleaning the lens, but the camera I am looking at is a Leica I from 1930, converted to a Leica II. The seller says the curtains are in good shape, but the shutter speeds are not accurate.
It seems like some of you have done service on these old Leica's, I was wondering how difficult they are to work on. I've serviced an M2 and did light work on a IIIf, and I used to be an Arriflex motion picture camera service tech. Are the Leica I and Leica II cameras that much more complicated than the IIIf? And is there some reading material that you recommend, possibly Nobby Sparrow's "Leica IIIf & IIIc Repair Book" or some other source.
Any and all information will be appreciated. Thanks.
Best,
-Tim
Erik van Straten
Veteran
No, the Leica I is a very simple camera. If you are used to work on cameras, it is not difficult to disassemle this camera for cleaning, oiling the moving parts (with extremely little oil) and the slow moving parts with ball bearing grease.
You must be happy when the shutter works even. When you want to fine-tune the shutter, remove the lens and slide a piece of white paper in the film gate. Set the shutter to 1/500. Look at the shutter with a digital lamp when firing the shutter. Easy to see if it opens all the way or not. If not, try to make it work even with the two tensioners on the bottom of the shutter housing.
Good luck, if you have problems just ask here.
This is in a nutshell it. The books of Nobbysparrow are great. The gear he sells is very good.
Erik.
You must be happy when the shutter works even. When you want to fine-tune the shutter, remove the lens and slide a piece of white paper in the film gate. Set the shutter to 1/500. Look at the shutter with a digital lamp when firing the shutter. Easy to see if it opens all the way or not. If not, try to make it work even with the two tensioners on the bottom of the shutter housing.
Good luck, if you have problems just ask here.
This is in a nutshell it. The books of Nobbysparrow are great. The gear he sells is very good.
Erik.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I have a question about this interesting Leica. Before checking the serial number, I had decided it must be a IIIa because it has a slow speed dial and 1/1000 top speed, so it must be later than a II or III. And since the diopter lever is still concentric with the eyepiece and not with the rewind knob, and the accessory shoe has three screws and not four, it isn't a IIIb.
OK so far. But the serial number shows as Nr. 28304, a five-digit number that goes all the way back to a I. So the possibilities seem to be either it's a converted I (is that possible) or else it's really a six-digit number and the last digit isn't showing. The problem with that is that Leicas in the range from 280001 to 286500 are model IIIb. This isn't a IIIb for reasons stated above. It doesn't seem to be a factory IIIa, either.
So is it a converted 1930 model I?