Recommended First Leica?

[drewbarb]

one thing i'm not so hot on about getting a classic leica and giving it a cla is that if you decide to sell it later, you won't recoup the cost of the cla. if funds are tight, it could make a difference.

This reasoning doesn't make sense to me. First, I doubt the economics. Let's say you want to buy an M3. You find one for $600, then spend $80-$100 for Youxin Ye to give it a CLA. Later, if you decide to sell the camera, you should be able to get a premium over one that hasn't had service. What's the going price of an M3 that is functioning properly and truly doesn't need service? At least $650, no sweat. So you've spent, what? maybe $50 to own the camera? That's a cheap rental- and anyway, you'll probably get more for the camera.

Secondly, and more importantly, I think it's silly to buy a camera thinking much about it's resale price. If you're assuming you'll sell it, why buy in the first place? There are better investments, if that's what you are looking for. If you want to buy a camera, buy it to use. If your Leica is ultmiately not for you, you won't lose much in re-selling. Don't let this enter into your considerations for purchase- just look for a good deal and be happy when you find it.

 

[aizan]

didn't youxin ye stop cla'ing several years ago? and most cla's are between $175-250, sometimes $300, depending on who does it and what needs to be done for that particular camera. then you need to get a handheld meter, which is another topic in itself.

old, unmetered cameras are great if you've shot them for decades. if you haven't, chances are the novelty factor will soon get old, and the costs just add up.

did a search on ebay, and a user m3 or m2, with a cla by a local repairman ($250, a bit less than sherry krauter or dag), a good handheld meter ($150 sekonic l-308), and a new body covering from aki asahi ($20) can easily reach $1100. i might as well get an m6!

 

[Didier]

I've had two M6s and find that the LEDs in the finder are distracting. (...) This is why I prefer the non-metered Leicas and an incident meter.

I found framing through viewfinder and exposing externally with a handheld or clip-on meter much more distracting than doing both through the same viewer. If the metering values change, you change speed/aperture on every manual camera, no difference if the meter indications are in-finder or not. Shooting with a M6 is in any case faster than with a m2, M3, M4.

Beside this, I found the centerweighted M6 meter the most reliable meter I ever used, and I used many. Better than R-D1s for instance.

But it's up to each what he finds more comfortable.

 

[Graybeard]

didn't youxin ye stop cla'ing several years ago? and most cla's are between $175-250, sometimes $300, depending on who does it and what needs to be done for that particular camera. then you need to get a handheld meter, which is another topic in itself.

old, unmetered cameras are great if you've shot them for decades. if you haven't, chances are the novelty factor will soon get old, and the costs just add up.

did a search on ebay, and a user m3 or m2, with a cla by a local repairman ($250, a bit less than sherry krauter or dag), a good handheld meter ($150 sekonic l-308), and a new body covering from aki asahi ($20) can easily reach $1100. i might as well get an m6!

Youxin is very much still in the CLA business.

A straightforward CLA by Youxin (no replacement parts needed) runs $80 to 100.

 

[Photon42]

I found framing through viewfinder and exposing externally with a handheld or clip-on meter much more distracting than doing both through the same viewer. If the metering values change, you change speed/aperture on every manual camera, no difference if the meter indications are in-finder or not. Shooting with a M6 is in any case faster than with a m2, M3, M4.

Beside this, I found the centerweighted M6 meter the most reliable meter I ever used, and I used many. Better than R-D1s for instance.

But it's up to each what he finds more comfortable.

Same here 😀

 

[JNewell]

One of the better explanations of why an integrated TTL meter makes sense. Thanks, Didier.

CLA cost - Youxin is at the far end of the spectrum. Almost all the other Leica techs will charge $250 or more.

Having said that, you don't expect to recoup the cost of oil changes, brake work, a tune-up or new tires when you sell a used car. The fact of life with mechanical things is that some things just need ongoing adjustment or replacement - it's part of the cost of ownership. The vehicle may sell faster, but it probably won't sell for more (or at least not much more). Many Leica M6s are 20 years old or more. M3s and M2s are up to 50 years old or more. They need service to keep working dependably - it is maintenance, not an investment.

I found framing through viewfinder and exposing externally with a handheld or clip-on meter much more distracting than doing both through the same viewer. If the metering values change, you change speed/aperture on every manual camera, no difference if the meter indications are in-finder or not. Shooting with a M6 is in any case faster than with a m2, M3, M4.

Beside this, I found the centerweighted M6 meter the most reliable meter I ever used, and I used many. Better than R-D1s for instance.

But it's up to each what he finds more comfortable.

 

[splitimageview]

No question the M6 meter is accurate. It certainly was on the two M6s I owned.

For the shooting I do now, the lighting is usually pretty stable and unchanging, certainly well within exposure latitude of the flim. So I set the shutter and aperture based on a single incident reading; I can then concentrate fully composition and framing and not be concerned with the two diodes. This isn't to say this is for everyone; but I find it to be very rewarding to shoot in this fashion...'freeing my mind' so to speak.

The older M6 only has a left arrow and right arrow, which makes it difficult to judge how far off (how many stops away) from correct exposure...maybe it's only a stop, maybe it's five or six. This is why I was always seemingly overly concerned with the diodes...

 

[JNewell]

I have been using M6es since they first were introduced. The two diode system never bothered me, but obviously people can differ and Leica eventually changed the display. Different things work for different people...I was never able to make the 75mm corners (dare not call them framelines) work...

 

[Big Hairy Bee]

Harry, if you live closer to the west side of Phx, you can test the waters with my R3A or the M4P, with the CV 50/1.5 if you'd like, I am not using them at the moment. I won't need a security deposit, (well, maybe some DNA or something... 🙂)

That's a stunning offer, especially knowing nothing about me. Unfortunately I live in east Mesa. Perhaps I can take one for a spin during the holiday break.

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I still am looking Leica first but I am looking at the alternatives out there.


I don't think that using a RF vs a DSLR will be problem. Before I went to Canon DSLR I loved my Olympus C5050 (with a 1.8!). Unfortunately it disappeared after loaning it to a friend. And when I worked PJ for Gannett I used a Nikon 8008 primarily but I always had my FM2 with a 28mm f2 even when off the clock. Another combo I miss... sigh


These days I ponder ditching the DSLR and lenses and carrying something like a Leica M with a 50mm and a digital like a Canon g9.

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Finally I am still amazed by the outpouring of information the other posters on this thread have shared. Thanks much as I go dig through the archives.


Regards,

Harry